Waimakariri

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WAIMAKARIRI. On Saturday the 23rd of Docembor, the foliowing twelve bods left for the South Isiand in 1 trip to the Haimakariri. They were Pat White, Les Clendon, Borbara Bartley, John Mabin, Dave Caswell, John Harris on, Stun Potter, Frank Mcuowan, Paul Phillips, Dave Catchpole, Bob Williums and veorge Thompson (leader). Sunday, 24th Docember: After disembarking at Lyttelton, onlockers in the Lyttelton- . Christchurch train were amazed to see the same twelve fit? bods davouring breakfast on the wharf. This proved most embarrassing to us and we more extremely glid when the train pulled out. Shortly afterwards we hopped on our bus with Trev Walsh, Rocky Garbutt and Rod Milie and went on to Uhristchurch where we changed buses. The road from Christchurch to the Bealey Corner ran over the plains and then rose to Porter's Pass (3,000 ft). This is a good ski ground in winter and Christchurch skiers are extremely fortunate in that it is only 40 odd miles from the city, a shc rt distance com pared wi th that which Wellington skiers have to travel. From the Pass to the Bealey the countryside became more and more barren, the unusuat rock fermations giving a Stonehenge appearance. Our last civilised meal was had at the Bealey Hotel where Pat eating lettuce reminded us of "George with Beard." The bus tock us on to Klondike Corner where food was cistributed an d packed. Trevor, Rod and Rocky left us here and we waved goodbye to Frank our bus driver. Two hours up the river with our heavy loacs took us to our camping place just before the junction of the Anti-Crow and the Waimakariri, after experiencing a little difficulty in the crossing of the river. Monday 25th. The mist cleared an d we enjoyed our first view of the Waimakariri peaks, P articulariy. Rolleston, and with promises of a perfect day we left for Carrington Hut. after three hours journey upstream over large boulders we arrived at the junction f the White and the Waimakariri where we met Snow Williams, Tom Lawton and Peter Beveridge whc had Lready had a week's climbing. Here we hac our first view of Carrington Peak; a view which none of us will ever forget. With this peak - certainly the most beautiful in the area - dominating our view and our thoughts, we made our base camp on the flat below Carrington Hut. Tuescay 26th. The following nine on three ropes left the base camp at 6.00 to climb Carrington Peak - George, Pat, Paul; John H., Barbara, Frank; John M Cis, Stan.

There: are three accepted routes on Carrington; we took the most difficult, from the florr of the Waimakariri Valiey straight up to the summit - a climb of over 4,000 ft., the peak being 6,596 ft. The route was up an inclined fault in the mountain to a series of bluffs below the snow-field, through these and up the sncwfield to the summit buttress. This was skirted and approached from behind under the main divide ridge. Much care was necessary on the final approach - one belay of 100 ft. being used. The summit ridge was gained and followed to the peak, the time being 2.00 p.m. The descent W3S started immediately, the time being late. We gained the snow-field further along the ridge as a descent by the rock would have been difficult owing to its steepness. Caru was necessary on the now softened snow. Camp was reached at 8.00 p.m. This included the 70 minute journey down the Nsimakariri to the White Junction. locnescay 27th. The honcur fell to the three cooks, Lesley, Bob and Tadcy, who voluntarily stopped behind from the Carrington party, to be the only ones to gain the peak of Isobel (6,675 ft.) in bad conditions, the Kilmarnock Falls route being both the line of ascent and descent. During the day the rain had steadily grown worse and everyone retired to their tents to enjoy a meal of venison which two shooters had given us. To pass the t: ime away six of us had a poker session in the girls' tent which happened to be the smallest. With three cigars, numerous cigarettes and one candle we managed to get a really good fug. By the time we hit the sack the rain was streaming through the tent which had taken some rough treatment. Thursday 28th. We awoke to find ueorge at the door of the tent enquiring after our welfare while the rain came down in torrents outside. He had had to get up at 1.30 a.m. to resce the butter from the creek. Deciding that things were becoming just a little too damp we were evacuated to the hut; the girls taking custody of the three bunks in the back-room while four f the boys were left in the tents owing to the shortage of room in the hut. Once more a poker session was enforced while the weather gracually grew colder, The night was the coldest we were to experience during the whole f the trip.

Friday 29th: During the night fresh snow had fallen. This meant that we had to wait at least 3 day before any f the peaks would be in a safe condition to be climbed; so once again poker was the order of the day. (We were getting pretty good at it by this time). Les kept telling us how hungry sho was and how ueorge was starving us; so at lunchtime we cooked 9 billy of rice and watched her eat large quantities of it. AS soon as she emptied her plate it was filled again with choruses of "Do have some more, Lesley" and "I thought you were hungry" till poor Les cculdn't eat another mouthful. For some reason which we justican't understand, she didn't Seem So keen on rice afterwards. Saturday 30th. With most of the peaks out of condition owing to the new snow, Isobel was accepted as being the safest. ueorge, Barbara and Stan climbed from the front face and traversed ver and down to the Whitehorn Pass and back through the Harman Pass, While traversing a steep snow face two other parties I John H. and John M. = Tadcy, Cas and Paul a were observed aperoaching the summit having previously climbed Mt. Campbell in the morning. Yells were exchanged and both parties arrived back at 6.00 after 10 hours cl imbing time. Sunday 31st: Two parties I George, Barbara, Taddy, and John H., Paul, and Stan - left at 5.30 a.m. for Rosamund through the Harman and Whitehorn Passes. The climb started from a steep rock wall on the Whitehorn Pass on to the Rosamund ulacier above the Cronin Icefall, which was an unusual sight for the less experienced members of the party. The broken glacier was skirted high to avoid the crevasses and steps had to be cut on much of the ascent. We met Tom Lawton and Co. on the neve and learnt that they had completed a Marion-Rosamund traverse. Packs were dumped on a rock ledge just before the arete to the summit rocks and the climb continued. The ropes were discarded on the final approach. On reaching the summit we decided against going on to Marion as time was quickly passing and we stopred for 3 while to enjoy the view which was one of the best we had seen. We descended to the lerge where we had left our packs and ate our lunch overlooking the Rosamund Glacier. Much to John's horror, his mug, to which he was very much attached, rolled off the ledge falling into a schrund in the glacier below. Deciding that the mug was too good to lose he was lowered into the schrund where he managed to recover it. Continuing the descent we avoided the tricky rock faces we had encruntered in the morning by crossing to the Taipo side of the ridge and glissading down 1,200 ft. to the snow valley well below the Whitehorn. We arrived back after being away for 123 hours.

Mondaylst January: John H., John M. nd Cis ioft early to climb Murchison while the rest of the party remained in Carrington Hut. They arrived at Barker Hut (6,000 ft.) after 24 hours travelling up the White River. Leaving Barker Hut with a clear sky overhead they crossed the lower noraines and continued up the glacier having to negotiate a couloir leading onto the east ridge so that they C uld avoid the ivefall. Following the ridge for a short way they tock to the slopes on the side of the glacier where the new snow was frund to be in an avalanche concition. 300 ft. below the summit they turned back to the glacier as the rock was in an unclimbable cendition. The weather had been gradually getting worse Curing this time and was so bad that they had to turn back. By the time Barker hut was reached a blizzard was raging. Tuesday 2nd. Five of the boys made a trek down to the Bealey partly to enquire about the train strike and partly for another reason. The remainder f the party doclared a rest day and eagerly awaited the return of tho poys. There was great rejoicing upon their return which lasted far into the night. Hednesday_3rd. With the new sncw cisapearing, Mt. Davie, 7,490 ft. was considered to be in a safe climbing condition, so ueorge, Barbara and Taddy left at 6.30 p.m. under heavy low cloud. A route was taken up the left of the Kilmarnock Falls throug a steep rock gully to above the Kilmarnock Basin. AS our descent may have had to be made in bad weather we cairned our progress. At times the mist cleared a little and we had glimpses of the greatly magnified summits of Davie and Isobel looming eerily above us. 2,000 ft. above the White River we climbed out of the cloud to a clear blue sky. The ridge alternated with rock and a snow arete. On one side there was a sheer drop to the Kilmarnock Basin and on the other lay the broken Marmaduke Dixon ulacier. After eating lunch on a rock buttress 500 ft. below the summit, we reached the neve. Large crevasses hac to be worked through to the final 50 ft. where steps had to be cut. The summit was reached at 1.10 p.m. The view was magnificent I the most Spectacular we had seen and in keeping with the whole climb. Cook, Bliede-Beaumont, the Rakaia peaks and others dominated the horizon. The Shaler ridge between Davie and Murchison which has only been traversed once, offered us a challenge and we made a vow that one day we too wculd traverse it.

Tearing ourselves away we traversed on to the lower peak and continued on to the peak of Isobel unroped. The rock ridge was spectacular offering many steep pitches to be overcome. Isobel was reached st 5.00 p.m. after stopring an hour for a brew on an unnamed peak. We enjoyed glissading down the snow faces of Iscbel and descended to the White River. Camp was reached at 7.00 p.m. Thursday 4th. Our last day at Carrington Hut. During the morning we cleaned the hut,cleared the camp-site and sorted out our own socks and puttees from the genoral collection. Few people seemed to have their wn and bods were seen dashing around with one sock trying to match it with another. Such is usually the case on tramping or climbing trips. After sunbathing and eating for the rest cf the day, we left I for the Anti-Crow hut late in the afternoen. We Spent the night there and were tantalised by two Christchurch boys who had large quantities of that wonderful delicacy - fresh bread. Friday 5th. We left the hut and tramped down the river to the road. The sun was blazing fiercely and none ofus were too hapey about the five-mile road-walk to Arthurs Pass. However, we decided to make the best of things and set out after a short rest. Les, Paul and Stan were lucky enough to be pickec up by a passing train shortly before they reached Arthurs Pass. Here we caught the train to Christchurch and so ended a trip which we had all thorcughly enjoyed. The leader has asked me to express his thanks to John Pascoe for the details on rute finding, and to Bob Williams for his help given in locking after the stores and cooking. His unselfishness made the trip the success it was. Barbara Bartley.