Egmont and the Shark's Tooth

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EGMONT AND THE SHARK'S TOOTH. In bad weather, 18 people left the Railway Station on Friday night by truck for North Egmonto We hoped to find some weather suitable for climbing, ski-ing and tromping thore. After the usual "quoram Levin stop" and "pie-cart Wagnui stop, il we arrived at North Egmont to be met by the ten members who had travelled by rental carso Snow was on the ground and a hard frost. We all snatched a few hours' sleep until 6.30 ao mo when breakfast was cooked.

The tramping fraternity still snored on when the party left to start the climb from Tahurangi Hut. Heavy cloud was rolling in from the South and the mountan, heavily covered with snow, was alternately clouded over, while occasionally the sun would break through. Up to a thousand feet above the Hut, a good crust made conditions ideal for snow travel, but Egmont, living up to its winter reputation, turned on hard ice covered by two inches of crusted snow. Crampons were strapped on by three quarters of the party 1 those who had them I and roped we proceeded to cut steps most of the way to the topo Those on crampons used cut steps So as to help the others not so fortunate. Very low temperatures gave us trouble with icing on our protective clothing, not to mention much unpleasantness with cold feet and hands. The tops was reached by the approaches of Snow Valley, and the high peak above the crater was climbed by all. We were preceded by a Taranaki Alpine Club party and only they and ourselves were on the top, there being no sign of anybody from the Stratford or Dawson Falls sides - such were the severe conditions. We descended by our route of ascent, using two cramponed people on the outside to safeguard the leading centre person without crampons. Travelling in this "V" formation was most effective and when a safe level was reached, wE unroped and took off crampons. We were sorry that the snow was not suitable for glissading from here. Tea was well under way when we arrived back at the Cottage thanks to our recent English arrivals; they having speni the day "muckin aboot. 11 The party retired earlier than is usunl on such trips, with good intentions for the morrow, Two inches of fresh snow fell around the Cottage in the night and with some reluctance, four climbers and two ski-ers left at 8 o'clock with the snow still fallingo Thirty minutes after leaving the hut we had climbed through the cloud and snow to find the mountain clear. It was a wonderful sight 1 everything white above a sea of rolling cloud. The ski-ers were left at Tahurangi Hut and we started the climb of the East Ridge to the Shark'o Tooin in earnest. At 2,000 feet from the summit, we roped and put on erampo1s. we climbed with a tight rope and pick belays and the higoer we climbed, the steeper became the pitcheso It was exhilarating - the rhythm, steepness and the free snow on the ice swirling around our feet with the cold light windo We ignored the usual col on top, and climbed up onto a bump before the Shark's Tooth, then traversed to the top.

The view was superb, Ruapehu poking its nose above the cloud; the brightness of the snow against the deep blue sky; the stillness and cold seemed to grip us. It was winter climbing at its best. After a snack we descended the Lizard, by traversing the steep rock ridge, now a series of ice hummocks and festoons. Below us, a party of Nurses led by a T.A.C. member, plugged up the Snow Valley, nine to a rope - true continental visitor styleo They hurled abuse at us, as the loose powder snow was whipped up from us, showering them in great clouds driven by the wind. We descended quickly, as if to walk out' on the cloud base stretching as far as the eye could see from the foot of the mountain. Humphries Castle occasionally broke through the cloud below us, and we accepted the challenge. We played around trying many approaches on the west ridge, but the two hard climbs had sapped our strength. We abandoned it for snfety's sake. Descending below Tahurangi Hut we learnt of the tragedy in the Orongorongos to one of our most esteemed club members. That night a party of Maoris arrived from New Plymouth and a real "hooly" took place. The next day with much regret, we said goodbye to Mr. and Mrs. Okeyo We appreciated the courtesies which they had and always have extended to uso It was a most pleasant tripo Everybody did what they wanted to do; so everybody was satisfied. And that is what we journey for - our satisfaction. George Thompson. -0-0-0-0-0-0-0-0-0-