Xmas Under Mount Aspiring

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XMAS UNDER MOUNT ASPIRING. Phil Gardiner, Frank Dement and Athol Roberts, sailed for the South Island on the 19th December, 1951, headed for the Bonar Glacier under Mto Aspiring, via the West Matukituki Valley, looking forward to good weather and some fine climbso We had sent some of our gear ahead to be packed up to Aspiring Hut by Jerry Aspinal and had also arranged for an Air Drop on the Bonar Glacier of a considerable quantity of food and equipment, with the result that we had only light packs on the journey downo Quite a change from the usual 70 or 801b carried all the wayo We al ired at Wanaka at about 5.30 Pomo on the 20th and deci. d that ler re leaving in the taxi we vould have a real bang p feec E.0 the Jccal hotel. We went right through the menu, Pinishing up by ordering trifle and creamo The waitress made the mistake of bringing Us a large bowl from which only a small portion bad been taken and which was evidently - atended to satioy the needs of all, but our need was greater, and so we merely had a trifle I all to ourselves. Leaving Wanaka at 7.30 polo (not feeling a bit hungry) we sped along the 28 miles to Jerry Aspinal's Garageo The going was quite comfortable in Mr. Anderson's Station Wagon, but we ran into rain aboi t Lalf way in and arrived at the Garage in a real depressisa. Jerry paid us a visit shortly after we arrived and informed us that our gear for packing had arrived too late and he had been unable to pack it up the valley, but that we could take the pack horses up ourselves the next morning if we liked. We decided to save expense and carry it and anyway it rained all night and the river came up, so that we would not have been able to get the horses without wasting a day. We set off next morning after a leisurely breakfast, The rain was still falling heavily and the mountains all round were spewing water at a terrific rate. But whatever the weather, it was grand to be back in the hills again and we slowly plodded up the valley, feeling contented and free once more from the worries of civilization. The weather began to clear early in the afternoon, and after sharing a cup of tea with six lads staying at Cascade Hut (who said it had hardly stopped raining for the lastseven days), we pushed on to Aspiring Hut where we spent some hours admiring the palatial residence, gazing at Mto Aspiring when it peeped occasionally out or the mist, inspecting the slopes of Mto Bevan through the hut telescope, and trying to trace the route we would take to the Bevan Joffre Colo

During the occasional minute or two when the cloud cleared on Aspiring, we studied the South-West Ridge with awe through the telescope. It appeared to just stand on end and looked very impressive, even appearing to overhang near the topo We dragged ourselves away from the hut at 5.30 pomo and pushed on to Pearl Flat, camping alongside Liverpool Streamo The temperature was by now a little frigid and after tea we were pleased to climb into our sleeping bagso An eerly start next morning and as we pushed on to the head of the valley, gaining altitude, we gazed about in admiratio. rt the many new vistas appearing, slowly oric tati..g ourselves to the surrounding peaks and to country new 0 the shree of Uso The day was perfect and we enjoyed it to the full as we rested many times during the pull up to the Bevan Joffre Col, and then on reaching the Col, majestic Aspiring stood before us fully revealed, with the Bonar Glacier spread out below. After a little time to digest this grand scenery, we slogged across the Glacier in soft enow and pitched our tent on snow below Shipowner Ridge and the North Weet Ridge of Aspiringo The following day wae a rest day and we dug a small snow cave on Shipowner Ridge, to which we could retreat in case of bad weather and in which we could store our air drop when it arrived (it was due on this day or the next)o It was decided that one of us should stay in camp to receive the drop and so we put up three wooden matches, one being dead (Phil's idea) and horror of horrors, I drew the dead match and would have to stay in camp next day while Phil and Frank went climbingo I cooked breakfast for them and they got away at 3.00 aomo to attempt Mto Rolling Pino They were back at 9, Frank having had enough for one day, we left him in camp and Phil and I set off in thick mist to climb Mt's Bevan and Joffre. We reached camp again mid-afternoon, the weather having taken a turn for the worse and so far no air dropo 25tho Weather lousy - forced resto Drew matches again and Phil was the mugo 26tho Up early, but the weather didn't look so good and eventually Frank and I got away to a late start at 8 aomo for Mto French. The weather cleared up beautifully and the pull up the centre of the glacier made us very warm. When almost under

I French we heard an aeroplane. We stopped and watched the plane fly right over us about a thousand feet up and head down the glacier by our campo He flew right out over the Waipara and appeared to be going on, but no, he turned back and circled right round our camp in one big sweep, still fairly high, but we saw nothing dropped and then he flew off again, headed towards the Olivines where he had drops for the Hutt Valley and Tararua partiese We thought he must have been observing the spot on the way and would be dropping our stuff later, so on we went with our climb, traversing Frencho Coming off by the Quarter Deck, we met two of Jack Edeis party swagging towards their snow cave (dug earlier) ard joinéd them for a chato They were Arthur Martlrae aud Alan Morgan, The panc came over a second time and circled round and round Bevan, dropping stuff on the Col for Jack Ede's party and another party 01 three. He did not go near our camps so we decided to head back for camp and see if the drop had come llo We diverted to climb tne high peak of Joffre on the way back, as I noticed that Phil and I had only climbed the low peak in the mist previously. On reaching camp we found that the drop had come in O.Ko with very little damage, although there was one package we never foundo Phil had been working hard gathering up the sacks from all over the glacier and had then all stacked in the snowcave when we arrivedo The canned beer had dropped well, as had the special bottle of medicine and we had a lot of fun opening packages I just like Xmas but a day late, nevertheless not too late to celebrate. The next day Frank had a rest day and Phil and I got away to a late start to look at the Haast Range. It was terrifically hot and the snow was already softening, but the going was reasonable and after sidling Rolling Pin, we climbed Mto Main Royal. We lunched between this peak and Mto Skyscraper, admiring the vast area of the Therma and the Volta Glaciers, the head of the Waiototo, Aspiring looking very grand and identificd many grand peaks from the mapo Mto Skyscraper - climbed once under perfect conditions by Graham MacCallum and party last season - was a superb peak standing there as a challenge. It was too late in the day to attempt a climb as it was well plastered and the heat from the sun was terrific, but we decided to have a close look and try and pick a good route for an early start the next morning or a little later, as we eventually decided to climb Aspiring the next day. We sidled half way round the west lower face of Skyscraper and picked out a feasible looking route for future reference and then started the knee deep slog back to campo

Frank was an excellent cook and we thoroughly enjoyed the meals he turned ono Nothing was ever wasted, except the pips from the raisins, which I enjoyed trying to shoot through the tent dooro Frank and Phil complained bitterly that after that, every meal they had including cups of tea, they came across my raisin pipso The next morning (28th) we were away at 3 a.mo for Aspiring, taking our time up the glacier and reaching the foot of the South-West Ridge at approximately 5 a.mo A short spell and then we started cramponing up the steep face. We had to keep out from the actual knife ridge as it was corniced and climbud mostly on the West Face itself. We r se swiltly on crampons, but our ankles screamed for relisf,s0 Piil started cutting steps which was a relief to our ankleso Looking dowil at the glacier below, we saw two tiny figures slowly wending their way towards us. It was Arthur and Alan of Jack Ede's party with the same idea as uso The day was fine with perfect visibility, though a cold wind was springing up and we pulled on a little more clothing. Up and up we soaredo The higher we climbed the steeper it became and the magnificent view became steadily greater, but we did not have time to do the view credit until we reached the topo believe the steepest angle on the South West Ridge is 5965 As we reached the crest of the summit ridge, the wind swept at us with terrific force and every movement from then on to the top, had to be made with infinite carpo We had a short spell on the top to admire the viewo Cook, Tasman, Sefton and many others could be seen quite clearlyo A look down the fearsome Coxcombe Ridge, a few photos and we set off down the North West Ridge to look for a more sheltered spot out of the high windo The North West Ridge seemed like a highway after the steepness of the South West Face and we lost altitude quicklyo Half way down we met two more of Jack Ede's party climbing by this route and we stopped for a few minutes to chat, then on to a sheltered spot on the ridge overlooking the mighty Therma Glacier. After about two hours for lunch, lazing in the sun, we dropped on to the Therma and sidled round to the top of Shipowner where we met Paul Powell, Arthur Tyers and Brian Wilkin, who had swagged up the East Matukituki, attemptod Mto Aeroplane and swung round the Volta and Therma Glaciers right under Aspirirgo We preceded them down Shipowner and back to campo They arrived later and pitched their tent alongside ourso That evening we got together in their tent and enjoyed ourselves with a Sing Song etci (Useful word I Edo )o

Next morning Phil and I were to attempt Mto Skyscraper and Phil was given the Alarm clock, but the alarm woke none of us and it was about 8 ao mo when we woke (these late nights)e Of course it was too late L0 attempt Skyseraper, as under the prevailing conditions we would have had to be on the top early and off before mid-dayo Paul Powell and Arthur Tyers set off at 9 a.mo to climb Bevan and Joffre and Phil joined Brian Wilkin to traverse Bevan, Joffre and Frencho Frank and I started moving everything up on to Shipowner Ridge so as to have our camp on rocko This would put us nearer our snow cave, be warmer and more sheltered and aulow us water, instead of having to melt snowo Jack Ede'. Iarty arrived to put in a snow cave on the ridge near 118. We were all hard at work fixing up our respective camps, when we sighted a lone figure coming across the glacier from Bevan Colo Whan he reached the glacier about 500 feet below us, he yelled out that there had been an accident on Bevan and would we come and give a hando We immediately conjured up visions of Phil, Paul and Coo, who were climbing over there, but eventually ascertained that it was one of a party of three young chaps who were snow caving on the Bevan Colo This was their first season climbing and they had attempted Bevan unroped, one of them falling about 50 feet over snow, seree and rock, injuring his back, head and knee and suffering from other abrasions. Arthur Tyers then came across with the other young chap, to tell us that Paul Powell was with the injured boy and had made him comfortable. It was decided that we would need a stretcher and would have to get help, and also to move Paul Powell's tent etc. and party to Bevan Colo It was arranged that if the manpower on our side was needed that night (it was then 4 pomo ) after Paul had assessed the seriousness of the injuries, we would all come straight across, otherwise two would go out for help and a stretcher and the balance would come over first thing in the morningo Phil and Brien were still out climbing and as yet knew nothing of the accident. We conferred with Jack Ede and it was decided that Frank and I would go straight down to Aspiring Hut via Bevan Col that evening, obtain a stretcher and bring back what manpower we could muster. We hashed up a meal before leaving and in the meantime Phil and Brian arrived back. After telling them of the events, Brian came across with us to join his party and Phil was left to look after our gear and join forces with Jack Ede. We made good time to the Col and found on arrival that Paul and Arthur had already left via the Quarter Deck for French Ridge Bivvy to obtain help so we decided to stay that night in Paul's tent with Brialo

Paul and Arthur arrived back next morning with five young chaps (inexperienced) and a stretcher - a type with legs that ought to be banned on mouitains. As they arrived, so did a very chilling blizzard, 8O half of them (4) came into the tent (making 7) and the other half into the small snow cave (making 6 The snow cave was badly conceived in every way and could not hope to hold six sleeping without being enlarged, nor could the tent sleep seven, So it was decided to start digging another sleeping platform off the entrance to the present cave, so about noon, Paul and I made a start on this projecto The only tools we had were a small shovel with about a foot of handle and a tin plate. Ti.ese were far from adequate, but of course hac to suffice, and after 21 hours of this we decided it war time some of the others had a goo We fought back throush tre aaging blizzard to the tent and demanded admittance and a relief force, so Frank, Arthur and Brian turned outo The tent by this time was becoming encased with large quantities of packed snow and as soon as it was cleared it banked up againo The inside was becoming smaller and smaller and the metal ridge pole was bending lower and lower, until there was hardly enough room for the three of us who were left, -80 we decided to abandon it and head for the cave. We took everything we possibly could with us, having great difficulty in struggling through the now diminished entrenceand struggled the few yards through the torrific blizzard to the shelter of the newly dug small, sleeping bencho Five of the boys had not brought in sleeping bags (as they were travelling light, hoping to get in and out with the patient the same day) and with a big portion of our gear wet and both sleeping benches packed tight, things were not as comfortable as they might have beeno We envied Phil with his comfort across the Glacier, in a spacious cave with dry gear and plenty of room to moveo The following morning the tent was completely submerged except for about 5 inches of one corner and crampons and ice axes which were holding the tent down, were under about 5 feet of snowo The cave entrance was in such flat ground and in such a bad position, that we all had to take spells at keeping the entrance clear and at times even then, it got ahead of uso For the four days and nights we were blizzard bound, we had to keep this up, and as we had to put ourselves on short rations in case the blizzard lasted for a long period, and had had very little sleep owing to the congestion and shortage of covering, we were not sorry when the weather broke and we were able to get out of the cave and stretch our legso We we'comed Phil and two of Jack Ede's party who pushed over the AAl ona made Aenining Hut.

The rest of this article is recorded from my Diaryo Same day - Moved off with patient walking, at 10 aomo Called at Jack's Mto French Snow cave and party had cuppao Patient tied in stretcher and dragged like sledge from Quarterdeck to French Bivvy, arriving approximately 3 pomo Weather fine in the morning but deteriorated in the afternoone Carried stretcher through worst of bush (worse than Tararuas) when Jack, Cam, Arthur and I came back to French Bivvy, arriving 8,45 pomo Frank went on to Aspiring Hut to dry out and give his lumbago a chance. 5tho Weather wet and blizzyo 6tho - Ditto. rtho - Cleared a littleand as Cam's time was up he left early for Aspiring Hut with instructions to send Frank up that lay with Wynn, so that we could dash in and recover our gear between blizzards and perhaps snatch a climb if the weather was kindo Frank and Wynn arrived 5 pomo 8th. 1 Left Bivvy for Shipowner. Arthur and I going ahead to Jocate and dig out snow caveo 9tho I Weather goodo Arthur, Jack, Wynn and I climbed Mto Rolling Pino Snow conditions not the best, but climb very enjoyable. Frank stayed in camp with his lumbagoo Left 8 pomo that evening as weather looked threatening and headed up glacier to French snow cave, which would be an easier getaway in a blizzarde Arrived at cave at midnight - nearly dug Mto French away looking for it = eventually found it and bedded down about 2 ao mo Next morning the blizzard was still raging and we had to dig out of cave which was completely blocked upo Left at 3 pomo in blizzard for Aspiring Hut which we reached at 10 pome Hut super - comfort De Luxeo We met Mr. Christie and swopped experiences. 13th. - Turned out a good dayo Attempted Mto Barf, but could not crose rivers, so tried Liverpool Ridge but this was tough climbing - just one massive 20 foot rock on top of another with a few trees growing out of the cracks. Nevertheless we managed to get well up on the slopes of Mto Liverpool, but had to turn it in owing to timeo 14tho I Terrifically hoto This was the day we had to head for home - sweat pouring off. We stayed at Wanaka Pub. 15tho - Wanaka to Ferry - and so home again after a thoroughly enjoyable holiday in the Mountains. No doubt they will continue to lure us yeer after year until we become too

15 I old and feeble to climb on and amongst themo But may that day be far away, so that each year we can look forward to and enjoy, a further "Mountain Prospect. It Athol Robertso -0-0-0-0-0-0-0-0-0-0-