The Top o' the Tararuas

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THE TOP O' THE TARARUAS. As you all know. ( or perhaps you don't) there are three main crossings of the "ararua "ange, all of which can be varied at will (s sometimes). A Soythern Crossing which is not at all difficult, a Middle Crossing and a Northern "rossing, which is a trip requiring moderate fitness as it involves about sixteen hours (more or less) tramping time over a week end. These crossings are usually made from West to Past and the Northern Crossing commences about six miles from Levin just South of the junction of the Makahika and Ohau Rivers. Twenty two trampers, mainly members of our Club left for Levin on a Friday night to at ttemp this Crossing. A track sidling the Ohau Gorge leads, in about one and a half hours to Ohau Hut, from where on Saturday morning the trip really begins. Leaving early on Saturday the party proceeded up the Onau River Crossing and recrossing the cold green waters, carefully choosing their crossings to avoid the deepest pools and the more turbulent stretches as they retraced its path through the thick bush. South Ohau Hut was reached in about two hours and a halt was called for a rest and refreshment. Situated on a small plateau high above the hungry waters South Ohau would be a real haven in wet weather when the river would roar in a foaming torrent taking all in its path out to the sea. Here we left the River and began the short steep climb up Yeates Track known to trampers as Yeates 600. At first the track was almost vertical and our noses were nearly, touching the ground ahead of us, but the grac dient eased and we came eventually to Te Matawai. The billy was boiled again and then we set off, this time for the open tops and Pukemataiwai (4805'). Soon the bush was behind us and a long open ridge of snowgrass and rock lay ahead. Each knoll beckoned us with a promise of the SU ummit but many were false and we climbed on. The party was well spread out by the time the leaders had reached the top from where we gazed down to the sel ldom visited Park Valley far below. The "ain Range continues South from here to mt.Crawford but we turned East now and headed for Arete (4935') dropping steeply into its guardian saddle before we were able to attempt its peak. We were past the point of no return now and up above the clouds which seemed to drift below us, and indeed around us in aimless abandon. Completely at the mercy of nature with no shelter from whatever storm or tempest she might send, we pressed on. A rise in the ridge brought us to the junction of the Carkeek Ridge and Tarn Ridge along which lay our route and our campsite for the night.

The wide flat Tarn Ridge looked inviting to all of"us, growing,a little weary now from our exertions but between us and our objective lay the Waiohine Pinnacles. Steep jagged-Rock teeth, directly athwart our path, their almost sheer sides dropping nearly 2000' to the waters of the "aiohine River. Thoughts of a hot meal and rest spurred us on to the first climb and the "field" spread out again as we hauled ourselves laboriously upwards, thanking our lucky stars for only a mild breeze and not the blustering winds which sweep the Tararua Ridges most of the time. But the top was only the start of thé Saddle before the next pinnacle and so we must lose the height so hardly won and climb again, slowly, winning our way, handhold over handhold to the next peak, then down again, testing each foothold carefully, ready for the next challenge. Tarn Ridge was ours at last and we made our camp backed by a rocky ledge and snug among the snow grass. The stars were our canopy and in. their soft light we slept through a calm though cola night. A heavy dew fell overnight but the morning was still calm as we set off again, this time for Girdlestone ( 50901). On we went, into and out of saddles plodding away until Girdlestone and Brockett also.were behind us and ahead lay Mitre (5154') highest of all the Tararua Peaks, This was the final challenge and as we gazed at its huge bulk rearing above us no doubt our thoughs were the same - how pleasant it would be when we reached the top to rest and to know that we had won through! Slowly we began to climb, no one could hurry here. Steadily we wound our way around the rock faces until the last of the party seemed mere pygmies far below us in the saddle. A sidle was necessary but we continued to gain height, the rough rock rasping our finger tips in the steepest parts, our packs seeming heavier at each exertion. We worked our way back on to the ridge and then looking up it seemed the summit was not far away. Could this be another knoll on the ridge? No, not this time and soon we sank into the tussock with sighs of relief, we had made it and we sat on the very top of the Tararuas. From here it was a downhill "run" home and Peggy' S Peak passed almost unnoticed beneath our boots during the long steep descent back to the bush. Down and down until the bush closed around us giving a sense of shelter and protection after the wind swept ridges of the open tops. A newly blazed track - thanks to the Internal Affairs Pepartment saved us much time in our descent and we moved quicker now throuch the damp cool labyrinth : of the bush to the comparative comforts of Mitre Flats Hut. Food and a long rest and we were off again, down the Waingawa Riveron the last lap. Deeper. and swifter than the Ohau, the Waingawa was crossed again and again as we followed its torturous path back to civilisation. Waist deep at times we picked our way carefully through its ca lmer stretches and over its treacherous bed until we came out to green pastures and the end of the road. T.Dakin -