The Upper Rakaia

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The Upper Rakaia (December 25th January 11th, 1958/59) One hundred years ago this jour- the bend so commenced the hardest ney would have been quite remarkable part of the journey. (see "Explorers of New Zealand") At 3 p.m., after a certain amount and its participants hailed as West- of repacking and general preparation, land pioneers. Nevertheless, what was ar totally exhausting start was made primarily a climbing trip proved a over the swamp. This was an unforvaluable reconnaissance, coupled with tunate piece of navigating and the some absorbing mountain activity. only good thing about it was that This, then, is a day-to-day account it was nice when you stopped. With a concerning the wanderings of Andy heavy pack pushing one into the McGechan, Bill Drake, George Dav- ground, a tramper at this stage could ies, Dave Capper and Don Jeffs, be- be likened to a dying camel. Downs tween the above-mentioned dates. Hut was reached in three hours and On the evening of Christmas Day the swamp can only be avoided by the usual ferry exodus contained a following a large grass track on the large percentage of trampers. Our right-hand side of the valley. "heroes"-were there, also many other Downs Hut, situated on the Lake T.& M.'s. Everything went accord- Heron side of Prospect Hill, is a ing to plan and not more than a Forestry hut and sleeps eight people. dozen people were killed or maimed The only thing of note that happened by sharp projections! in the hut was arranged by Bill, who At 8 p.m. the "Maori" moved out, used a large part of the salt ration the view of Wellington in the moon- "sugaring" the morning tea! light provided nostalgia for anyone December 27 saw us leaving for who 'wanted it. Lyttelton was reached Washbourne Hut. The day was fine at 6 a.m., the day looked promising, but morale was slightly salty! We and the South Island looked like some left at 6 a.m. Prospect Hill was relanew land. tively easy to avoid and at about 10 After boarding. a train Christchurch a.m. the party slowly plodded up the was reached in about 30min. This Rakaia Valley. A stop was made for short journey was very interesting a brew and contemplation took place. and provided absorbing moving pic- The mountains could now be felt. Betures through the windows. One fore and behind the great river bed could tell it was holiday time by hav- of the Rakaia stretched away; in ing to queue for breakfast at Christ- front the white-clad peaks seemed to church station. beckon, and behind, the river receded As the primary objective was Lake to the sea. By now the vegetation Heron it'called for a stop at Ashbur- was changing from grass to scatterton. Here the intrepid five were re- ed snowgrass and matagouri, and galed with brews in the Transport away to the left was Thompson's Hut. Company's building whilst waiting Banfield Hut was reached at about for the private bus's departure. The midday and a pleasant hour was bus left at 11 a.m. and made its way spent recovering and reading the log westward over the plains. A stop was book. After lunch we continued on made at Mt. Somers for very wel- for nearly a mile from the main Racome liquid refreshment and a mem- kaia River. The hut belongs to orable meal, the last for two weeks. the Forest Service and has room for Long before Lake Heron was reached eight, and made a good home for two and along its shores the distant moun- and a half days. There was a sometains showed themselves and plenty what broken arrival due to Mataof recognition work took place. By gouri dispersal. Don, Bill and George the time journey's end was reached became parted from Andy and Dave, well above the lake the map was thor- but about 2.30 p.m. all was well. oughly orientated. December 28 dawned unbelievably As the little bus, complete with fine and the whole party was away driver and wife, disappeared round by 6.30 p.m.-destination Medhurst.

This proved to be a lengthy the whole effort discussed with the slog. A rather interesting argu- four other oceupants of the Lyell. ment occurred at 8 a.m. when Evans, They seemed an ideal climbing team, Louper, Butler, Whitcombe and Kin- of similar age and outlook, and were kel seemd to be in the wrong places. congenial company. (Mountains seem to have a habit of Next day Don and Dave spent sevdoing this pity they don't have eral hours between the Jollie Ranges labels.) on two unnamed peaks duly named On the summit it was extremeiy Don and Dave. Access was gained by hot, nearby was a close-up of Bas- an unmarked stream which was to tions loose face and the Spires with provide useful service in the future. their long snow slopes. The sun was out, the snow was good, After over an hour of delightful in- and morale high-a happy day! activity a rapid descent took place Meanwhile, Andy, Bill and George (two hours). Some glissading took went off on their-version of a reconplace; five dead sheep were encoun- naissance of the Lyell Glacier. They tered and a quote produced: spent several hours drooling among "They never fall"-D.J. The day end- the crevasses, hanging on the ice-falls ed as it began-sweltering. The next and enjoying practice de luxe. Sudday was a washout. denly with complete abandon they On the following day, Dec. 30, in began to climb Kinkel. This they acwindy, dull weather, a start was made complished in ultra-fast time up a to Lyell Hut. A certain amount of steep snow slope, and in approximateswagging, especially over Meins ly 90 minutes the peak was theirs. Knob, a perfect day, and beautiful Far below four weary climbers rescenery provided the setting for the turning from Nicholson remarked on final access to the glacier region. three chamois ascending Kinkel! Soon When Lyell Hut was reached at 5 they were to discover that a rope conp.m. anticipation for the morrow was nected them! This was a good effort high. Trouble was the apricots were and their faces fully conveyed their a charred mass and the stew attain- success upon returning to Lyell. ed a charcoal flavour! Andy manufac- January 2 was wet. tured one of his notorious-er, noted On January 3 Andy and Dave set -currant loaves, which we consumed. off ferociously for the Amazon Range. John Pascoe refers in his guide Their route lay up. a snowy gully and book to the ridge up Kinkel "oppo- at 6.30 a.m. conditions were perfect. site the hut." This was duly picked The snow in the gully provided ideal out in error and on Dec. 31, 1958, an cramponing and the crest of the ridge expedition was launched up the wrong was attained in about three hours. ridge! A start was made at 6 a.m. This was an exquisite world of high and a long detour was made round snows, of excellent rock and hazard, the terminal lake of the Lyell Glacier and the view magnificent. The to avoid its icy waters. We started summit of Renegade (7500) was up the ridge at 8.30 a.m. in hot sun. quickly reached and Outlaw tempted By devious means all five arrived on across a vast space. With mercurial a rock ridge at about 6000ft. and a crampons and enjoyable rock climbhalt was made to regard the route. ing the summit of Outlaw (7800) was George discovered that he had part- accounted for. From here a breathed company with his snow goggles- taking panorama was beheld, with not a pleasant thought. The ascent Amazon and Warrior and their dewas found to be too dangerous for fending saddle prominent. Andy and two ropes, so the two parties retreat- Dave thought it might be a good ed off the rotten stuff on to steep idea to sit on top of Amazon (8200), snow. The retreat was accomplished so off they sped. This accounted for a in quick time by free glissading and little more time. The peak of Amazon running down slides. Dave was cast is rather lonely but the view of the into the Lyell Stream on the end of Southern Alps is extensive. a rope and photos were taken of other The retreat began in great style members wading amidst lumps of ice: with controlled glissades. The Kirk The hut was reached at 4 p.m. and Glacier was good, but the Kirk Stm.

was a swine. Due to a succession of weather was perfect. Poor Don spearbluffs, waterfalls, and other miser- ed himself on his ice axe and firstable obstructions, return was deferred aid was administered with speed. until the next day. A lousy little rock Whitcombe Pass was reached at 1 bivouac on top of a moraine provided p.m. on January 5, 1959. From here a chilly bed for the night. to Hokitika was a gradual descent On the same day Don and Bill made of the Whitcombe and Hokitika a mighty ascent of Mt. Nicholson Rivers. (8125). This they accomplished in Thousands of words have been writgreat style and in good time. The ten about this journey and other only thing to spoil a good day was West Coast rivers. These reports are the non-arrival of Andy and Dave, excellent and substitute anything that but the party was reunited next day might be written here. To conclude, at 5 a.m. without mishap. I might add that perfect weather on January 4 passed happily in the the West Coast rounded off a wondersun. ful trip. In spite of resolutions to January 5 marked the crossing of give up tramping these days will be Whitcombe Pass. Lyell Hut was left remembered for years. at 7.30 a.m. and the bottom of Louper i Stm. was reached at 10 a.m. The DAVE CAPPER.