Plan B

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PLAN B last section looked hairy and was descended with the aid of a double We had originally intended going to rope. At the bottom of the gut we the Earnslaw Group at Christmas but strapped on crampons, a delicate at the last minute I sprained my ankle manoeuvre when standing on a fifty-five on a toughening-up trip. Recovery, the degree snow slope, and moved off in doctor said, would take six weeks, but the direction of the Multe Brun Pass. I didn't really believe him. A week be- The rappel line was left hanging for fore we were due to go however, it use on the way home. At eight o'clock became apparent that he was right. The we sat down on the Pass to examine the party was the usual four: Brian Cropp, route ahead. A series of steep red slabs Bruce Miller, Andy McGechan and my- led more or less directly to the high self (Bill Drake). The other three peak of the Aiguilles Rouges and had generously decided to put their trip off the appearance of a good climb. We until I recovered. After some debate were not disappointed. The rock was we decided to go to the head of the steep, firm and with plenty to hang on Tasman Glacier with intentions on the to and height was made rapidly, movrocky peaks of the Multe Brun Range ing for the most part together on short and the attractive snow and ice peaks of ropes. A couple of difficult pitches, the Main Divide. however, needed careful belaying. Higher In comparison with past swagging up the rock became loose and needed days the hike up the Tasman Glacier on more care. The two ropes had become Saturday 14th January, was most separated during the climb but we were pleasant; the packs weren't too heavy (a all on top by 10.45. The climb had modest 70lb.), the weather was fine and been quite eventful, Andy had fallen the views superb. We didn't even get six feet before a ledge stopped him our feet wet! Multe Brun Hut was going further and a piece of rock as big reached after a remarkably slow journey as a bedstead had almost made off with o fnine hours. Brian injured himself Brian. Even the summit bask had had on the moraine wall and took a little its excitements when a rock avalanche longer. We decided we would need a roared down a nearby couloir. rest day before tackling our first climb, An hour and a half on the summit Aiguilles Rouges, but we needn't have worried as the weather packed up and soon passed and we roped up again and we got four of them. During this time scrambled down loose rock to the top we helped an Alpine Club party pack of a snow couloir that offered an easier building materials down from near route down to the Multe Brun Pass. Tasman Saddle and later we commenced The snow was steep and in ghastly cona snow cave (which we never occupied) dition, soft on top and hard underneath. on Darwin Shoulder. After trying the more orthodox methods of descent we decided that "pidgeon On the fifth day we got away at 4 holing" was the only safe way. The a.m. for an attempt on the Aiguilles top thousand feet was thus descended Rouges, a sharp 9700ft. rock peak to in this most tedious manner, facing inthe south of Mt. Multe Brun. The wards. Lower down we could proceed weather was still doubtful with nor' west facing out and the last slopes were murk obscuring the Main Divide peaks descended in some glorious glissades. but on the Multe Brun Range we hoped The slopes leading round to the Beetham to get a few hours grace before the Gap had also deteriorated considerably weather arrived. The route from the in the sun and care was needed to the hut crosses a gap in the west ridge last. We reached the hut at six, tired, of Multe Brun to the Beetham Glacier dehydrated but well satisfied with a which is followed to the Multe Brun most enjoyable climb. Brian once again Pass. From the Pass a variety of routes took a wrong turning and arrived a little lead up to the final peak, two on rock late. and one on snow. The weather closed down again for At dawn we roped up at the Beetham the next four days. Snow fell twice Gap and cramponed down steep snow but at 12/6 a night our hut fees soared. toward the ice fall in the Beetham On the 24th the weather cleared to Glacier. The last ninety feet was down reveal peaks plastered with new snow. a steep rotten rocky gully. The first The sight of Multe Brun's glassy rocks thirty feet was easy enough but the was bloodcurdling. Brian and Andy left at ten to see what conditions were it shrieking across the cliffs above and like on Multe (our next objective) and the crash of rocks dislodged by it was Bruce and I left to do the same for inclined to be unnerving. At sunrise we Green, a shapely 9,300ft. rock and ice were climbing the rocks of the north peak on the Main Divide. On the way face leading up toward the west ridge. home we collected a shovel that had Although loose at the bottom, higher been left at the snow cave. We were up the rock became firm and a few all back by four in the afternoon and steep pitches gave us some exhilarating after some discussion decided to attempt climbing. At 7.30 we were greeted by Green on the following day. We also a withering blast as we gained the ridge. decided to camp out as hut fees were Windproof clothing was hastily pulled becoming an embarrassment. on and we crawled off up the ridge. Getting out of a warm sleeping bag Although not difficult, the west ridge is at one next morning was horrible and narrow and in the high wind was slow the chilly hike up the Glacier did little and dangerous work. After a couple of to disperse our melancholy. Daylight hundred yards we decided to abandon cheered us up somewhat and threading the attempt. We were all rather dissome intricate crevasse systems gave us appointed but for me it was something something to think about. It was late of a relief as I had strained my back in the season and the usual route up to the day before and in the wind it was Divers Col was cut off by 'schrunds giving me some pain. Down on the but a variation and a bit of manoeuvring glacier we looked with horror at a frail got us past them. The snow was in snowbridge which we had crossed in rather bad condition after the recent the dark. Needless to say we avoided falls and although in some places step this obstacle on the way down. Camp cutting was necessary, on the final ridge was reached at one and the rest of the up to the col it was almost knee deep. day was spent sunbathing. The usual route up the final peak by The next day we tramped down the the steep eastern snow face was out Tasman, reaching the Hermitage with all of condition so we choose the rock and its attractions, just before six. snow of the main divide. Divers Col We had all enjoyed the trip even was left at 9.15 and after crossing the though it had been the worst climbing final 'schrund we started up the rock season on record. Even the setback on which was steep and yielded some in- Multe had only served to whet our teresting and amusing predicaments. The appetites and at least we still have one last part of the climb was up the of New Zealand's best rock climbs still corniced divide ridge. The summit to do. As we said last year and the itself was a cornice so we had to be year before, "we'll be back". satisfied with being ten feet from the -BILL DRAKE. top. On the way down a White's Avia- Excellent copy-thanks. tion "Dragon" flew close to the summit and waggled its wings at us. We used