Godley-Murchison-Tasman

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GODLEY-MURCHISON-TASMAN On the 23rd of December last Godley ignorance is bliss, and we settled in for Hut witnessed a most "ungodly" proces- an early pre-climbing night. sion as Bill Drake, Bruce Miller, Brian Just before dawn the next day, much" Cropp and myself staggered in under later than we had intended we bolted our eighty pound loads and collapsed on thefl breakfasts and hurried off up the lateral terrace. Behind us stretched the ap- moraine bound for D'Archiac. Dawn parent infinity of the Godley River bed, promised a perfect day, and the terminal before us the prospect of the Godley face of the Dennistoun was soon negomoraine and glacier. We had come up tiated. This glacier rises in three steps; the former in style riding on the tray the face, the icefall, and Revelation of a "quad" and only twenty-four hours Col. All were negotiated without a after leaving Wellington were spending trouble and after a hard and anklea pleasant evening in a high mountain wrenching crampon grind up, forhut. Good weather, a bottle of wine, tunately, good snow, Revelation Col was and the as-yet novel stew completed a revealed about seven o'clock, with the feeling of expectant anticipation. The sun now on to the upper slopes. Nothhut was crowded with C.U.T.C.'s but we ing technical is encountered in the climb had not expected the Godley to be un- up to the point, it is simply steep and inhabited. Altogether a most pleasant long with first-rate scenery its only comstart to what promised to be a tough pensation. Sitting in the tiny saddle of trip. Revelation Col we studied the rock base of the East Rib. It was narrow, rather After hesitating the next day due to steep and looked atrociously loose. It bad weather, we eventually set off up proved ti be even worse than it looked. the moraine and glacier for item number Bill and Bruce led off, moving alterone on the agenda, D'Archiac. The nately because of loose rock danger, and. terminal moraine proved nasty, but for- Brian and I felt compelled to give them tunately short, requiring about an hour several hundred feet start. I'm glad to negotiate. Hot humid weather made we did. This rock rib is merely a pile the going more awkward, and high of loose boiler plates and gives most cirrus seemed ominous; but with early unpleasant climbing. trip optimism we pressed on up the west half of the ice. As very, oc- After about an hour of this we casionally happens, optimism was justi- climbed off this rock and out on the fied. Mid-day and the middle of the head of a large and steep snow couloir. glacier witnessed an embarrassing situ- The others were out ahead traversing ation when we were unable to detect any cautiously around its top in rapidly worthwhile looking route up the so- worsening snow. The party slowly called west ridge of D'Archiac, and in- worked around and then up a steep and deed, could not find the west ridge at icy gut at the couloir's head which led all! After somedispute the alternative up on to the summit ridge. A nasty route up the east rib was decided upon, rock runnel channelling frequent minor and the party continued on up the ice, rock falls ran down its centre and made on the neve, and arrived a little below the going interesting. The snow steadily the Dennistoun Glacier junction a little deteriorated. However, the prospect of after three on a very hot afternoon. the first peak of the trip was overpower- Tremendous efforts were made to level ing, and no doubts were expressed as and erect a weatherproof tent site, and to our continuing. The summit ridge contemptuous looks were cast the level turned out to be in roughly two secbut exposed sand beach a little further tions; a moderately steep first half which away. Rakaia memories gave the spur led up to a rock tower, and a second to much wall building which turned section of mixed rock and snow which out to be quite pointless, as the weather led to the summit snow cone. Both are remained brilliantly fine for the dura- narrow and exposed yielding exhilarattion of our stay. Indeed, it later trans- ing climbing, snow aretes "at their best", pired that our camp was over a glacial which more than made up for the unsink-hole and was in greater danger of pleasantness below. At about eleven we disappearing down into the depths of the glacier than blowing away! However, (Continued on page 10.)

(Continued from page 7.) we approached the more formidable it mounted the summit snow cone and col- appeared. We hesitated and looked back. The others, one of whom had lapsed to enjoy the magnificent previously crossed the Classen, were panorama in brilliant weather. How- heading up a steep snow face to the ever, bad snow conditions dictated an left and below our ice fall. It looked early start on the descent. far more promising. discretion seemed Little need be said of our return, the better part of valour, and we really a matter of pidgeon holing in traversed back across the valley wall soft snow and the familiar ordeal by into their steps. Their slope was steep, loose rock concluding with a pleasant very steep, and we climbed up into stroll and glissade down the Dennistoun. drizzle and light snow. Fatigue, cramp, Late afternoon saw the return to camp and a small schrund necessitating comof a tired, sunburnt, but very satis- bined tactics made the climbing slow fied party. and sold. It was a very thankful foursome which eventually plodded on to D'Archias was our only object in the the saddle itself and saw Murchison Godley, and within the next few days hut through the murk down across the we moved back down the valley to Murchison neve. We roped up for Classen Bivvy in preparation for our crevasses and plugged down and across passes over into the Tasman. Then it to its welcome shelter. happened, Nor'wester. Three days in a four-man bivvy. Pouring rain and This is definitely the route across the nearby stream flooding. Occupations: Classen, both sides give infinitely easier Beard growing and waiting for meals. travellin gthan what appears to be the Thus arrived New Year. old route up the Classen ice fall. After this sojourn, immediately fol- A day's welcome rest in the crowded lowing an amazingly bad moraine and and tip-tilted Murchison hut, and we felt scree swag round the head of the Godley ready for our other pass. Tasman River, we felt very like leaving this par- saddle, down into the Tasman itself. ticular valley, and the mediocre weather Dawn was fine and clear, and our party of New Year's Day lured us up the set off last, in the hope of good steps Classen, Murchison bound. A short in the softening snow. Tasman saddle grounch up and over the Classen's lateral presented few problems being really a moraine wall was followed by a long long but gradual grind up the neve folplod up the moraine itself. This lowed by a short and very steep pitch moraine is reasonably good travelling on to the saddle itself. Crevasses are but now, due to glacial recession, ex- fairly frequent and the majority of the tends far up the valley and the ice is party felt it worth while to rope packs not met until the corner at the base of together as well as bodies. However, the cirque is rounded. The weather re- we stepped on to the saddle unscathed mained mediocre but reasonably good about eleven, and were delighted to gaze time was made, resulting in the lunch down the Tasman glacier in all its white stop being made just above the Classen impressiveness. icefall. And a very welcome stop it was. The climb up the steep snow This pass was in some ways my slopes leading up from the Classen Waterloo. Narrow boots were ulceratcirque towards Classen saddle was a real ing my feet and cramponing was begrind with our seventy-pound packs. coming, for me, out of the question. With mixed feelings I sat down on a During our lunch two interesting rock and dozed while the others things happened. Firstly the weather scrambled off to traverse Aylmer, an closed in, and shrouded peaks and adjoining nine thousander. They re? passes in a drizzling murk. Secondly, turned two hours later after what I a dozen assorted inhabitants of tthe understand was an enjoyable and reason- Godley climbed up in our steps and able snow climb. We lunched, then luncheoned immediately below us. We ploughed off down the upper Tasman packed up and moved on a short way to the "aerodrome" where we planned across the snow field intending to tackle to put in an overnight camp for Elie de the ice fall at the head which apparently Beaumont. We trampled and dug out lay just below the saddle. The nearer the most God-forsaken campsite pos- sible, looking complete and roving Malte was lightened by a feeling of lunatics. Hogsbacks formed over Cook satisfaction. For all parties, Malte was and Tasman. We dug on. More hogs- a happy hut that night. backs formed. I looked at Bruce. Bruce looked at me. With much more For me, this was the end of the enthusiasm than had been displayed in season. I could hardly get my boots on its construction the camp was dismanted for the next few days. However, the and we fled down to Malte Brun. Thus others took advantage of the continuing passed an eventful day. fine spell, and climbed Malte Brun (10,500ft.) by the nor'-west face and It seemed in retrospect all the more cheval ridge, an especially welcome eventful during the next few days; dull success after a wind-enforced retreat days, storm bound in Malte. The on that route last year. They apcrowd thinned as boredom set in, and parently found the standard of the rock an abortive bad weather attempt was reasonably easy, and apart from the diffimade on Hamilton, mainly (I suspect) culties of a three-man rope thoroughly to relieve the monotony. Then at last enjoyed this much-lauded climb. the weather set fine, and we prepared for All seasons come to an end. Elie de Beaumont (10,200ft.). Regretfully leaving a good spell of climbing A pre-dawn start and rapid progress in the Tasman, we trudged down to up the frosted Tasman enabled us to be Ball; then on to the Hermitage for the on the Divers Col "triangle" spur by suual end of trip pursuits. daylight. Here we were joined by Thus ended a most successful peakfour C.U.C.'s and were more or less a and-pass trip in which we actually joint party for the rest of thea scent. managed to do what had been planned The frost had been poor and plugging in the armchairl-Andy McGechan. became the order of the day. We wove P.S.-Bill and Bruce also climbed in and out the lower schrunds, up the Turnbull. Heaven knows why. narrow arete, and plodded out across P.P.S.-Because it was there.- -Bruce. the Green Walter plateau in brilliant sunshine. A few more schrunds, some *

moderately steep cramponing on still shadowed ice, and we were on Walter FOUND about 7.00 a.m. The breeze was bitterly In Ruapehu at the end of last season: cold and we scrambled over to the north 1 pair Rieker Ski Boots face of Walter. This reputedly easy 1 pair Grey Ski Trousers rock face was this season the most diffi- See Brian Hunt. cult step in the whole climb. Not more than 500 feet high, it needed careful * * * alternate rope work and made even THE COMMON LOT double roping worthwhile. At its very We returned from our and base a minor overhang meant some hairy found the ablutions, jumping and hairier climbing on the re- tion. "Ah!" guides said old engaged Semiond. in conversaascent. However, over an hour later fleas, I don't pretend to be different "As from to we re-united in the Walter Elie saddle. anyone else-I have them." We worked out across the face beneath -Edward Whymper, "Scrambles the summit ridge, in atrociously soft the Alps." 27 in snow, with one eye on the seracs above and the other on the exposure below. * * * Every one was relieved to crampon on ot th hard ice of the summit ridge and RECIPE FOR "MUMMERY'S gain the summit football field itself BLOOD" about 11.00 a.m. 1. Melt sufficiency of snow. As on D'Archiac softening snow 2. Take equal parts of the result, meant early descent. We worked rum, and Bovril, and mix. back down the slushy face, gave the 3. Heat. C.M.C.'s a healthy start up the Walter 4. Drink. rock and followed up, over, and down, N.B.-Connoisseurs will insist on the ourselves. From the Divers Col plateau. concomitants of an unintentional a longh ot snow plod back down to bivouac at 12,000 feet and a blizzard.