My Contribution to the Ruapehu Hut

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MY CONTRIBUTION TO THE RUAPEHU HUT After a Saturday spent splashing Pinnacle looks appalling so we sat down paint over ourselves, the hut, and every- to eat and discuss the problem. A sidle thing else, Bruce Miller and myself on the west looked quite feasible (in (Bill Drake) thought that it would add fact Miller and I had been this way zest to the weekend if we did a climb several times in winter), but we were on Sunday morning. Bruce Jefferies intent on a complete traverse of the and Alan Higgins didn't need much per- ridge. The south face of the pinnacle suasion to join us. rises 250 feet above the saddle in one thrust of verticle, crumbling rock, and With good intentions we set our alarm looked a desperate, if not impossible clock for 4 a.m. hoping to traverse climb. We therefore decided, by the Pinnacie Ridge and be back for break- process of exclusion, to attempt the east fast, but, alas, having practically ex- face. Miller had been this way in hausted ourselves the day before, we winter by a complicated and obscure overslept. However, making do with a route, but without its padding of snow most frugal repast we managed to get he was unable to recognise any part away by six. One and a half hours of it. later, after a lengthy plod and some easy scrambling, we arrived on the We couldn't sit and talk all day (we Southernmost point of the High Pinnacle could have really, but it was supposed to (the pinnacle nearest the mountain).. be a working party), so we roped up Drifting mist veiled the meanness of again for the fray. A rubble filled the surrounding country and made the gully was first descended for a hundred ridge ahead seem far more impressive feet or so, then an awkward traverse led than it really was. Except for the Low by Miller landed us at the foot of the or Great Pinacle, the ridge is not diffi- climb. At this point we joined the cult in summer, although it is quite ropes together so that only one would spectacular with particularly handsome have the more difficult and dangerous overhangs on its western flank. The task of leading. The first pitch was rock in most places is firm and liberally long, steep, and exacting and Miller led plastered with holds. out almost a hundred feet on it before he found he could belay. One at a Climbing in pairs (Jefferies and time the rest of us followed, revelling Higgins on one rope, Miller and Drake in the delights of steep, firm rock. Two on the other) we began to climb by more pitches, short and easy, brought us traversing the spiky crest that forms the to the foot of the final buttress. Well summit of the High Pinnacle, belaying belayed by Miller, I launched myself occasionally but moving together in most at the cliff. The rock was almost vertiplaces. Then down, first on the ridge cal (two sections actually overhung), and crest until an overhanging "nose" the drop below quite sensational, but forced us off and into a couloir which with plenty of holds it was sheer joy. we descended into the first saddle. The With a hundred feet of rope out, hownext pinnacle is a long narrow affair ever, I wasn't feeling quite so joyful. with a spectacular overhang on its my arms and toes were getting tired western flank. The rock was superb, and there was no sign of a belay, but steep and firm, and we climbed it at an I climbed on and happily discovered exhilarating rush, Miller leading, me a iedge just before our 120-foot rope ran following with the coils. out. Miller soon joined me and led The descent of the other side was through another sixty feet to the sumsteeper and required a belay. The mit. The others were already up, havthird pinacle was speedily dealt with ing got tired of waiting and climbed to and soon we were basking on the the top by a slightly easier, though less summit splinter waiting for the other direct route. two, as on all rock climbs, one party After a suitable period for rest, regets ahead of the other. However, they laxation, and dropping stones, we soon hove into view on the previous scrambled down the easy northern slopes pinnacle, so abandoning our perch we of the pinnacle, and so back to the scrambled down the easy rock into the working party and scowls of our comfinal saddle. From here the Low panions.