Canoeing on the Wanganui (Concluded)

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CANOEING ON THE WANGANUI (Concluded) Imagine our disappointment, on arriv- to a Totem, above the river bank. We ing at the tiny river settlement of Mata- pondered on its history. This pole, one hiwi, hoping to replenish our exhausted of four which, 100 miles apart, marked food supply at the little shop, only to the boundary corners of the river Maori find it securely locked. We were just territories, was erected by a Major James wondering what to do, when an old Kemp in the 1840's in an attempt to put V8 truck, running on perhaps five of its a stop to inter-tribal battles over land. eight superannuated cylinders staggered It is still remarkably preserved and up the hill apparently with no driver. stands about twenty feet high. We set The door opened, and out clambered up a Tongue and Meat Camp at its foot, a small boy, not much taller than, my and turned in. shoulder, about 11 years of age, and with Blowing out the candle, I lay on my a patronising air he answered our back and looked out at the starry sky about the whereabouts of the shopy through the boughs of the pine trees, owner, by announcing that he'd open up and over to the opposite river bank. for us, which he did. Moving slowly along in the moonlight two the river seemed to radiate a feeling of After spending over pounds on peace, and made the world of work, food, and being sold four pounds of crowded buses, income tax demands, and sausages for the price of one, from the other worries seem far away. Geoff. quaint old Kerosene "Fridge", we ambled and I talked over remembered incidents off back to our boats, paddled our of the previous seven days for awhile, leisurely way for another three or four and agreed that we were not looking miles, and made camp to cook up a super forward at all to our plunge back into feed of fried sausages, followed by an the cesspol on the morrow when we arendless succession of fresh cigarettes. rived at Wanganui. The following morning, the second to Next morning we were up at daylast day of our journey down the river, break so we could get away on the ebb dawned clear and sunny, and we set off. tide. From Kemp's pole to the mouth of Apart from isolated points of interest- the river, about 20 miles, the river is a dugout canoe moored here-an aerial affected by the tide, and even at Kemp's cable-way there, the main event, after pole the rise was over two feet. We nearly being wrecked on a 6-inch bore were extremely lucky in having an ebb pipe which ended just beneath the water tide to take us down to Wanganui, as surface, was meeting with two Welling- we had not enjoyed the last hour or so ton men, equipped with runabout cabin the previous day fighting against the cruisers. This was about a mile below flood-tide. the last rapid, nostalgic but almost un- The last day was rather boring, the noticeable, the last of 239 rapids which long stretches of wind ruffled water bewe had safely negotiated during the past tween bends becoming very monotonsix days. ous, the same scene stretching before you for nearly half an hour at a time. Soon We swapped yarns over a cuppa pre- the farms became more and more frepared by the wives, and learned that quent with aerial cableways stretching these two wealthy gentlemen had hitched across the river every half a mile or their inboard cruisers on the back of more. their cars, launched the boats at Wanganui and roared up the river with their Soon the farms gave way to houses families for a quiet holiday at Mosquito and suddenly we saw our first car for Point, about five miles below the lowest eight days. I was surprised to see the rapid, and about 30 miles from Wanga- terrific speed it seemed to be travelling nui. at after the slow movement of the river. The last long stretch, over two miles, After having a ride in one of these from the last bend to the Aramoho Rowluxurious boats, we headed off for our ing Club landing seemed to take hours, last night's camp at Kemps Pole, about but finally we steered our canoes into 20 miles from Aramoho, our destination. the landing and wearily climbed out. We arrived at Kemps Pole, so called because of the ancient carved pole similar After unloading our gear, the canoes were regretfully lifted out of the Wanga- when Geoff. and I will be going back nui for the last time and turned upside again. Geoff for his fourth time, I for down to drain while the gear was my second, and we hope some other crammed into our packs. A slow trip to Club members to share with us the Aramoho Stations to freight the boats thrills, sometimes spills, and delights of home, and after booking on the N.Z.R.- navigating by canoe one of New Zea- Road Services to Wellington, we visited land's most beautiful rivers. Dave Gregg, known to older members of the Club, then a quick meal and home * * * to Wellington on the bus. Footnote.-Any Club members who Trying to catch a little sleep on the would like to go on a similar trip this bus due at Wellington about 10.30 p.m. Christmas, contact either Geoff. Carr or I though of events of the previous days Merv. Griffiths as soon as possible. They -my first attempt at shooting a rapid- will be only too happy to advise on the high bush-clad walls of the gorges obtaining canoes, gear, etc. answering back when we called out to one another-the friendliness of the river Trip leaves Wellington on Auckland Maori people, always ready for a yarn- Express, Boxing Day, returns from a quiet smoke over the little campfire Wanganui on Sunday, January 6, giving after tea at night-all adding up to the ten full days on the river. most enjoyable holiday I have had up till now-at least until next Christmas, Approximate cost: £7. +