Two Interesting Experiences (Christmas, '64-65)

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TWO INTERESTING EXPERIENCES (Christmas, '64-65) In the Godley: 27th-28th Dec.: At 4.30 p.m. we thought the top was A good weather forecast encouraged in sight, however, we were rather unus to leave Godley Hut at 6.30 a.m. for sure as we seemed to be permanently a so-called "training climb" on Mt. forced on to the face at this stage. Wolesly, perhaps one of the most attrac- Sometime around 5 p.m. we were movtive looking peaks in the Godley. We ing very slowly up over the seventh started with a brief error in river cross- pinnacle which led to the summit and by ing, one of the most painful experiences 5.30 p.m. rather than appreciating the I can recall, and one that I was later to view we were surveying a route which regret as my boots, socks and climbing would get us off on to the glacier before tweeds became completely soaked and dark. were to remain so for the next 26 hours. We decided the quickest and most Despite this early set-back we covered direct route would be straight down the the moraine very quickly and set off up Maude face, a series of rock and snow the Maude Glacier. Travel up the pitches. glacier was exhausting and time con- We joined ropes for the descent which suming as we zig-zagged our way through was time consuming but the only practhe icefall, jumped crevasses and warily tical method as snow conditions were prodded our way across some very atrocious and very near to avalanching. flimsy snow bridges. We reached the glacier just on darkness -91 p.m. and due to the As the glacier travel took so long conditions of the Maude we chopped-up decided to we were forced to consider a different bivouac. We found some rocks on which route on Wolesly than the one originally to recline, but sleep under these condiintended. The most direct route appeared tions is rather difficult. To to us to be the south ridge. Bruce my disgust, was snoring his head off, whilst I At 1 p.m. we were at the foot of the lay with open eyes and chattering teeth. south ridge and delighted to find the rock The early hours of the night passed firm-very similar to that of the Malte quickly, but the final hours before day- Brun range. Although the rock was ex- break seemed to be endless. At 4.30 p.m. posed it had an abundance of holds and we put on boots and crampons and at was delightfully warm to the hands. 5.30 a.m. we set off down the Maude. Several times we were forced out on the We moved surprisingly fast and conseface where beautiful slabs were en- quently arrived back at Godley Hut at countered generally followed by a deli- 8.30 a.m., exactly 26 hours after leaving cate traverse back to the ridge. it.

The Rescue: 12th January: guides, plus Bob Barrack (N.Z.A.C.) on another with 3 Australians as a support We are now in the Tasman at Malte party. Brun Hut with our trip very neariy over. On the col between Elie and Waiter However, remaining optimistic about we found a slot which we all climbed sneaking in a climb of Malte before in and set up the radio, but no contact making our way home. could be made. So, leaving the Aussies We awoke very early but were soon with the radio, two ropes of three set off back to sleep as strong winds and driving up Elie. We climbed 5 rope lengths of snow ended any hopes of a climb. steep ice and gained the main ridge on At 7.45 a.m. Bruce Jenkinson (MCNP) which we experienced buffeting winds arrived and informed us that two Aus- and extreme cold, especially in our tralian climbers were overdue on Elie de fingers and toes. After about a further Beaumont and that radio reception at 600 ft. in vertical height we continued Tasman Hut was fauity. along what appeared to be a very wide At 9 a.m. W.T. & M.C.'s, an N.Z.A.C. ridge, shouting, but to no avail. bod, and two guides set off into the We decided that the weather was too lower reaches of the Anna Glacier which severe to risk exposure for a long period, spews off Elie to attempt to locate the sO we started looking for a slot to hole missing climbers. Margaret and a up till daybreak. However, luck was N.Z.A.C. bod took the Malte Brun radio with us and we found the Australians set up to Tasman Hut and made contact in a hole. with the Hermitage. With considerable relief we found them to be in reasonable shape, so we The weather, as earlier, was very decided to take them off straight away. poor, visibility was reduced to a rope's It was now 2a.m. and the most diffilength. After negotiating the lower part cult part was about to begin. We set off, of the icefall without any sign of them, 4 ropes of 2 and found the ice slopes we decided conditions for searching were leading to the slot very trying in the hopeless, so we backed off and retreated biting winds. After finding the support to Tasman Hut. We arrived there at party, we continued off down the ice midday. fall. Eleven climbers with only 3 torches We dried our gear and rested, keep- at this stage. Falls had to be continually ing in close radio contact with the checked and progress now was unbear- Hermitage. At 6 p.m. the cloud and mist ably slow as we were now 2 ropes of on Elie cleared so, after quick consulta- 4. Allen, Bruce, Aussie and me. The tion with the Hermitage, a plane was guides, A.C. bod, and Aussie with supseen circling around Elie, and, after a port party. The other party soon left us. very short search, we heard the pilot's The Australian on our rope was in very voice over the radio saying the Aus- poor shape and he was literally dragged tralians were at 9600 ft. and on the along. main ridge just below the summit dome. Under Walter we were treated to an ,As the weather forecast was for con- unnerving display of lightning and a tinual nor'westerly storms, we set off terrifying rock fall which crashed down for Elie at 81 p.m., very poor visibility not too far away. Avalanches became and a bad weather build-up hovering over a familiar sound but we were past worryus. ing about them at this stage as we had Snow conditions were surprisingly other problems like checking falls and good, and we made fast time across the searching for the route. neve to the Anna, despite the poor light. The neve was reached and after a very prolonged struggle in soft snow we We negotiated the Anna, following the reached the hut at 5.20: a.m., completely morning's footprints and, although we exhausted but very satisfied. were on steep slopes, we climbed in the Those in the party: Allen Higgins, darkness without difficulty, moving to- Bruce Jefferies, Ken McNatty, Margaret gether with 3 ropes of 3. Allen, Bruce, Webb. and myself on one rope and the two K. MCNATTY. JHTNEE I