1965-66 Christmas Trip (Travers-Sabine-Spencer Mountains)

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1965-66 CHRISTMAS TRIP (Travers-Sabine-Spencer Mountains, led by Fraser Walls) This was classed as a "medium" trip. markers showing quarter, half, and three- In other words, guaranteed not to be too quarters the way. Somehow each quarter strenuous. So some of us who had seemed to get farther and farther apart! limited experience but tons of enthusiasm Three hours later, we reassembled for for this new outdoor activity, decided lunch at the lake head hut and had the this was going to be the best way to first of many repeated salami and homespend our Christmas holidays. made biscuit lunches. Fortunately, be-1 We only had the haziest idea of where cause of the fine day, everyone was of we were going. Fraser, our trip leader, the same mind, and we stayed put until had deliberately not decided on a final four o'clock in the afternoon. Various route but we understood that we were to members lazed and sun-bathed on the travel from the beginning of Lake Rotoiti jetty or read books and swatted sandin the Nelson Lakes National Park, up the flies. Travers Valley, over the Travers Saddle On leaving the lake head hut, we were into either the Sabine Wilderness or the involved in the first of many decisions on Clarence and thence to Waiau. Whatever how to cover a route which was inaderoute used would eventually take us quately marked on the map. There are down to the Ada homestead and so to two huts at the head of the lake, both Ada Pass itself, located in the Spencer on opposite sides and divided by a Mountains. Our final exit would be down swamp. Unfortunately for us, the disced Cannibal Gorge and on to Lewis Pass track up the Travers started behind the and Maruia Springs. This virtually other hut. So we had to go up the valley covered three passes and a distance of a bit and cross the river at several apsomething like 70 miles. propriate points, bearing to the right ail Our trip started on Christmas Eve, the time. We reasoned that eventually when all 16 boarded the "Aramoana" car when the valley narrowed, we would find ferry late evening and promptly the disced track easily enough. ceeded to take over the bar. On andings The valley floor was very picturesque we journeyed by chartered coach to the and the mountain beech trees added a St. Arnaud township on the edge of Lake special green of their own to contrast Rotoiti, arriving in the early hours of with the valley floor and high snowthe morning. Everyone, by then, was covered mountains. Camp was pitched glad to doss down at the first convenient that night 14 hours upstream, and bespot offered. In this instance, among the cause it was Christmas Day our fare trees away from the lake edge. was one to be envied-Christmas pudding, custard, cream and rum. At 6.30 a.m. some energetic soul was Well, the weatherman must have awake and handing around the pro- thought we had our share of sunverbial brew. We also had a visit from shine, because from the next day onthe park ranger. With the brew came the wards, the weather went from bad to message that it was time for us to pack worse. By the time we had breakfast, it and reassemble down by the lake edge started to rain and continued to do so for breakfast, which consisted of soup all the way up to the John Tait hut, and ham. Fraser quite wisely insisted on which took us a slow four hours. Our taking an inventory of our party-gear, party was still not complete. Our two and amidst groans of having to unpack, intrepid companions of the day before we eventually made off on the first leg did manage to get a lift up the lake and of our journey. By now, the sun was up arrived in time for supper, but on wakand it was a glorious hot Christmas Day. ing the following morning, it was to Because of this, the party moved off in learn that we had lost Fraser and Murray dribs and drabs. Some had to get fish- who had gone back to our previous camp ing and shooting licences from the park site for the club axe which had inadranger and two lazy-bones wanted to vertently been left there. On reaching cadge a launch trip up to the head of the the John Tait hut, therefore, we decided lake whilst the rest trudged around it to stay put, firstly on account of the in the sweltering, heat with heavy packs. weather and secondly, to allow our com- (We had all "weighed in" before leaving panions to rejoin us. Wellington and found that our packs The John Tait hut, officially varied from 60-80 lb. each.) 6; we numbered 16. With our sleeps usual The track around Lake Rotoiti is very capacity for ingenuity, we ended up with well marked. So much so that we had 12 of us top and tailing in the six bunks, which were fortunately provided with were using up. our valuable spare days, ample-sized mattresses, and four slept which meant that in order to cover the on the floor with no comforts. Little did rest of the trip, we would definitely have we but know at that time, but this was to be moving on Thursday and over the to be our home for four nights. pass by Friday at the latest. Luck was The next day saw a sprinkling of snow, with us. Thursday dawned bright and which eventually dispersed and a few clear. Fraser and Joe were away before of us went out on various explorations. breakfast to have a look at the pass and Some up to the Upper Travers hut below to warn the scouts of the intended inthe saddle, others out shooting and a vasion. We all packed up in haste, in general look around. The John Tait hut bright sunshine and were ready to move is situated at the confluence of the up the Upper Travers by midday when Cupola Stream and Travers River. Just Fraser gave the all clear. past the hut there is a bridge spanning a It is 24 hours to the Upper Travers deep gorge over the Cupola Stream and again, we moved off in spasmodic which in itself is well worth seeing. numbers. There was still plenty of snow That night Murray, to his cost, de- around which made the scenery very cided he had had enough of our picturesque. One breathtaking scene was salubrious company and he elected to at the spot where a slip had dammed sleep out under the tent fly which was up the river, forming an everglade effect being used to protect our packs, there among the avenue of trees which thembeing no room inside for them. At four selves were snow-laden. o'clock in the morning, we saw him back We all had some fun, too, dodging with us shivering and shaking with his the snow now melting on the trees above unique experience. Apparently the fly the disced route. It only needed one had become so laden with snow, it member to bump against a tree, and eventually collapsed under the weight. boom! the one following had to do some In the morning we even found one bent quick footwork to avoid being bombed ice axe! from above. Of course, if there was a It was at this point that our first kea direct hit, no one offered any sympathy. came to visit us. It was the first some The Upper Travers hut is situated on of us had ever seen and because they a plateau just above bus level, and always provide amusement, cameras nestles itself just below the final track came out and a general stalking and to the Travers saddle itself. It is about thieving game flourished. The kea at- 4000 ft. at this point and we soon felt tacked whatever it could and had a fine the cold once the sun had gone down. old time. Don was so upset at his in- On our arrival, we found that the trepidness one night, that he set the scouts had retired to one corner of the whole hut astir by throwing all sorts of hut, leaving as much room as possible missiles at the kea. Needless to say, no for our party. As you can imagine, it one appreciated this act during the early took some organising to accommodate hours of the morning, and the guardian 30 in an eight-bunk hut, but we did it. of our property was told in no uncertain The scouts slept three to a bunk and our terms to go back to bed and leave the party, now complete with the four kea in peace. Poor old Don. pective climbers, dispatched themselves pros- That morning, more consultations took on the floor and tables. No one had a place. Our four climbing members of particularly good night's rest. After the party peeled away to relieve the finally settling down by midnight, we congestion and to try their luck at Mount were all disturbed half an hour later by Hopeless which is accessible from the the fire which decided to smoulder. The Cupola basin. Meanwhile, the rest of us smoke soon had everyone up-top coughdecided to pay a "day" visit to the ing spluttering and so we were forced Upper Travers hut now occupied by a to do something about it. Fraser, with group of scouts. We were rather keen his capacity for instantaneous oblivion to know of their movements since they had to be really shaken awake and on were in effect blocking our route. This coming too, his first words were, "Hwas a larger hut accommodating. it's not time to get up yet is it?" officially, eight persons. The scouts num- By the time four o'clock did come bered 14. They, like us, were staying around, there were some exceptionally put until the weather cleared. quiet members having breakfast of We were a little concerned at this ridge, which was served on a take-it-as- porstage. We had starated off on Friday it-comes basis. (Usually there are about night; it was now Wednesday and we six cooks around one pot, giving advice 1/ and watching proceedings with an eagle ing his attention to it. However, not eye.) Our scout friends were finally left having a gun he was found to be at a in peace at six o'clock when we found certain disadvantage. Notwithstanding, ourselves out in the early morning air we are all witness to Joe seen disappearfacing the first important lap of our ing among the foliage armed with his journey, the Travers Saddle itself. ice axe! Again the weather was on our side. There are several stories to relate at In fact at that time in the morning it this juncture. Each member seemed to had not decided to do anything. Since be involved in his or her own particular the climb was expected to take a few adventure. Maureen managed to get hours and because of the deep snow separated from the party and came drifts, we were all advised to put on our across a lone hunter. When questioned storm gear for protection. Thus we on who he was, where he came from, started on the cilmb to our first pass of etc., etc., we found her information the trip. sadly lacking. Apparently, these two, in Our four cilmbers-Murray, Neil, the middle of a virtual wilderness area Norm and Kelly gave us tremendous help only nodded to each other in passing. at this stage by leaving their packs at Maureen in fact had a hard job subthe hut and taking it in turns to continue stantiating her claim. to plug steps in the snow which Joe and Mike came out much farther upstream Fraser had started the day before. By than the rest of us and had to be this method, we were all on the top "rescued" by Joe who loyally joined him within 11 hours from leaving the hut in consuming copious quantities of tea and feeling very proud of our combined already brewed. achievement. Kevin, the only one with a rifle in The view from the pass was spectacu- our now reduced party numbering 12, lar to say the least. The saddle itself went stalking off into the bush to catch forms a wide plateau at 5800 feet. a deer and we anxiously awaited the out- Mount Travers dominated the scene by come. Fortunately, Joe was back with far, but the best vantage point was on us by then! 2 spur to the right where we could see We finally gathered together for lunch both the chain of mountains from a bare 10 minutes from the bridge which Travers, Cupola, Hopeless to the Sabine spans a deep cleft in the rocks. It Valley floor below, and right down to started to drizzle with rain but we had the forks itself. accomplished stage one of our journey Having waited so long for just this by then, so it did not really matter to moment, we were naturally reluctant to us. However, the next three hours trek leave these heights but 10 o'clock saw to the Forks hut was accomplished in us moving off again and saying farewell silence and at fair speed. for the time being to Neil's party who On arrival, we had a consultation on were going to have a go at climbing whether we would again stay in a hut Kehu. after our previous enforced stay, or make We thought that the descent would be for a known rock bivvy up the western a piece of cake, but no such luck. We all branch of the Sabine River. Discretion had our share of lightening crashes to reigned; it was now four o'clock in the the ground on slippery snow grass or afternoon and we considered the day's wallowing in snow drifts. When the bush experience strenuous enough. So the hut was eventually reached, the gradient was it was, and what another memorable so steep that we virtually had to put the night that proved to be. brakes on with much suffering to the Jce, now infused with the hunter's knee joints which took all the weight. spirit, went off accompanied with Fraser There was no disced route at this and Kevin's rifle, and shot his first deer point, so the party again found them- of the trip. So he was keen to put a selves fanning out in several different venison supper on. directions in an endeavour to reach the Unfortunately, the party were not all river track below. of the same mind that night. Half of Mike wanted to go at his own speed, them retired early to bed to catch up on so with a promise to have a brew on for some sleep whilst the other half, realizus down by the river, we let him go. ing it was now New Year's Eve, were Joe, Don, Mervyn and myself went intent on celebrations. on in another advanced group and it The final brew came up to the boil was on nearing the bottom that our first whilst the others were asleep and apdeer was sighted. Since Joe is reputed to parently they threw in everything they be the hunter, we lost no time in draw- had in the way of spirits. Dave added another bottle to the potent concoction heroic job of cooking tea for us with the as it was only one day away from his minimum amount of shelter and the boys birthday. Well, we must give them their did their best to cheer us up with a due, they then proceeded to consume rendering of "We're All Queers Todouble their share of liquid, at the time gether". What an introduction to sleepreasoning they did not wish to wake up ing out. Nevertheless, our spirits rethose who had already gone to sleep. vived and by the time we went to bed Having had more than their share, of our equilibrium was restored. course, peace no longer prevailed and Fraser wisely declared the next few those of us who had been asleep found days as rest days. In fact, we had three ourselves in the unenviable position of days at Blue Lake, the latter two in being forced to listen to a hilarious glorious hot sunshine when out came party from the confines of our bunks damp clothes, bikinis, and sun-tan lotion. and minus the stimulant consumed by The Blue Lake area is well worth a others! Needless to say, they did not visit. The lake itself is fairly small and leave any over and peace for the second boomerang in shape. It has NOT been night running finally prevailed shortly misnamed; it IS blue. We found this after midnight. due to a moss-covered bottom and crystal No one was up particularly early next clear water. Some of us were taken in morning, but before leaving we had a by its placid, cool look that without general look around. The Forks hut, as thinking Fraser raced to the water's edge its name suggests, is situated at the fork and took a real good dive in. We shall of the twin branches of the Sabine River never forget his shocked expression on which feeds into Lake Rotoroa some surfacing. The water apparently was so five miles away. Various bridges span cold, that Fraser swam for the shore both rivers which broaden out consider- as quickly as his numbed senses would ably at this point. These bridges are allow. With his "Christ . - ringing made of wire netting and one was sus- in our ears, we took the hint and stayed pended by wire ropes. clear of any voluntary swims and just lazed and sunbathed. We were now due to enter the western Neil, Kelly, Murray and Norm came branch of the Sabine River which has at on the scene after the second day, its source the pass to the Waiau, Lake ing with them a plentiful supply of bring- Constance, and Blue Lake. We were also son. The girls were requested to veni- do now in the wilderness area proper. In something spectacular in the of accordance with the principle laid down cooking, so we finally sealed the way meat for wilderness areas there are no disced with butter and herbs in tinfoil and routes, huts or bridges. One is therefore cooked it for about six hours the hot forced to keep. as close ot the river as ash. It was delicious and a very in possible and this in itself had an attrac- able change from the standard diet accept- of tion not as yet experienced. dehy. stew. Our destination for the following night We were now becoming inundated with was Blue Lake which is not marked on venison. Our four climbers who were every map, and no one in our party had self-sufficient as regards rations and been there before. We understood from equipment, could be seen frying their the hut logbook that the journey was not venison for days afterwards, always in all that arduous, so looked forward to rum and butter. None of us could make an eays day. up our minds whether it was the rum This particular track, because it fol- or the venison which was being misused. lows the river so closely, makes one very This combination certainly gave off an conscious of the scenery and the river in aroma all of its own, but the boys seemed particular. There are three plateaux at to be quite happy with their lot. the head of the valley, Lake Constance Much can be done in a few days' being on the farthermost one, Blue Lake "rest". Some people are always active no on the second, and nothing worthy of matter what. Several of our members note on the first except to say that that pursued their particular hobbies and pastwas where we expected to find Blue times. Lake! We were now climbing back up Don brought out his paints and spent to bush level and snow conditions. By several hours sketching the the landscape, time Blue Lake was eventually Blue Lake in particular. Unfortunately, reached it was raining again and at that he had to finally abandon the project altitude it was very cold indeed. Camp as the flies proved too pestiferous. was pitched under extremely miserable Kelly took up his hobby of photoconditions that night. Mike did his usual graphy accompanied by his lethal tele- scopic lens. Both Bill and Kevin provided understatement. It meant scrambling on some excellent material for "funnies". our hands and knees grasping about Don and Mike went off for a day every blade of grass for support. We just scouting around to locate the Waiau about went up vertically. So much so Pass, and to prove their accomplishment that we soon had a bird's eye view of scribed their names on the wall of snow Lake Constance and right down in the at the top of the pass. Sabine River valley itself. The Waiau Others did smaller trips around to Pass at 6100 ft. was eventually reached Lake Constance and the beginnings of by all members of the party at 10.30. D'Urville Pass. This pass was different from the We found our campsite an idyllic spot Travers in that it was quite conical in now the weather had cleared. There is shape and one could stand on the top quite a lot of flat land both in grass, and see down both valleys at once, from scrub and trees. There are also several the Sabine facing north to the Waiau in good spots for campsites. Lake Con- the south. We did not spend much time stance, in contrast, is bare of all vege- on top and half an hour later saw us tation except grass, so one is advised moving off down to a spur to our right. not to set up camp there. As mentioned We could make out tiny Lake Thompson previously, Lake Constance is on the quite high on the opposite side of the next plateau above Blue Lake. It has in valley with a waterfall feeding into one fact been blocked off with morraine and of the Waiau tributaries. We had more the river passes through this from above difficulties descending than envisaged. dropping in a cascade to one end of Several attempts were made at various Blue Lake, and then tumbling on down- points and we finally ended up with two wards over huge boulders at the other alternatives. One to go down a steep end. snow-covered gully or to descend over On the last day of our stay, several a rocky face to another vantage point. visiting parties came up. In fact at one We took both. The boys with ice axes, time the area was becoming quite who are used to glissading, screamed off crowded. The Auckland University party down the snow, whilst the rest of us arrived first, followed by the Crusaders clambered down the rocks as best we and Auckland Alpine. The first two set could. The party then all moved on to up camp by the water's edge, but the the snow and we made our way very Auckland Alpine carried on after lunch carefully, into a canyon, not really up to D'Urville Pass. knowing what we were going to find All good things eventually come to an around the corner. We actually ended end and we were now due to move on up over the top of another waterfall and for the next leg of our journey over the so made our way, out by climbing up a Waiau Pass and down the valley to Ada loose shingle bank. It was one of the Homestead at the confluence of the Ada times the rope was used. The boys River and Waiau. Fraser ordered an scorned the idea but nevertheless had early night, so we were all in our sleep- anyone slipped, they would have had no ing bags by nine for an anticipated five chance at saving themselves and ended o'clock start. Another grim awakening up at the bottom of the waterfall. was experienced. At four o'clock every- Well, with that hazard over, we all one started to pack and clear up. It was made for the river and had a late lunch. chilly with a heavy ground mist making The weather (typically) now started to it eerier and hushed. Mike lead off the pack up on us, but again we had accomslow party whilst the rest continued to plished our pass hopping for the time break camp. We skirted around the edge being in good conditions and so we of Lake Constance in the early morning could carry on to our proposed destinalight, climbing up and over a bluff at tion. one stage. The Waiau Pass itself S very Camp was made at the first available obscure. At the head of Lake Constance spot after the main Wiau River was itself, there is quite a basin of flat grass- reached. Murray shot another deer and land surrounded by towering mountains Mervyn, Kevin and I were responsible 6000-700 ft. high. One is left asking, now for getting tea whilst the rest piled into which one is the Waiau Pass? A map their sleeping bags at the first oppordoes not help either. In this instance, we tunity. One thing, we had no trouble had obtained some guide from the log- making jelly on this trip, and I do not book entry in the Forks hut and of mean instant jellies, The river water course Mike and Don had found it for was so cold that the jelly did not take us on a previous scout around. We did long to set. Tea was. again eaten under not hesitate, therefore; we went the canvas, only this time we had time Waiau Pass. Up in this instance "B àn to set up a fairly good camp before the rain seat in. We were really getting our of venison and a good sprinkling of softshare of sleeping out now in contrast to hearted members, the cat got fed more the beginning of the trip when we were and more with scraps surreptitiously ofhut bound. fered since we did not want to offend the Next morning we were again up early cook, until her sides were just about and away by eight o'clock. Our destina- bursting. That food must have lasted her tion was the Ada homestead. After for a week afterwards. We also found several river crossings, Fraser gave us the rooms of the old house lined with our head and we were told to keep going 1932 copies of the "Auckland Weekly for the next four hours or so until the News". Ironically, they showed several homestead was reached. Joe had been photos of ladies tramping in long dresses to Ada before, but from the Clarence out and about Titahi Bay, Wellington. direction, and we were assured that we We rose early again and all started could not miss it. off on the easy trip to Ada Pass hut. The river and valley had broadened The party was now moving into the out considerably now with extensive Spencer Mountain area with the valley grassland. We were also coming across floor again narrowing the farther up we herds of cattle. Nevertheless, some of the went. Tthe river had to be crossed a boys managed to get "lost" in a forestry number of times and on the way, Kevin hut, which had some rather lurid litera- had his opportunity to bring down a ture for passing the time. deer. We were actually alerted by After about two hours' tramping, the startling several horses, which in turn rain really started in earnest and without startled a deer. It took several moments any shelter, we were soon soaked for the party to realize that the funny through. Everyone became rather con- animal following the horses was in fact fused over the anticipated time and dis- a stag: When realization did come, we tance of the Ada homestead. We calcu- froze in our tracks and Joe and Kevin lated afterwards that it was all of 15 went off with rifles. Kevin actually shot miles and it took us until four o'clock his deer high up on the mountain side. in the afternoon to get there. Mike and We waited around while some went up party, after tramping for four hours, to see it and then the rest of us conthought they had missed the homestead, tinued on our way. Kevin apparently and so sojourned to a vantage point gave the observers some lessons on how under some trees and put a brew on. to carve up a deer professionally, since Apart from a few of us who will go any- it used to be his occupation. Thanks to where for a cup of tea, the other mem- Kevin's skills, we had liver and kidneys bers of the party did not accept the hos- for breakfast next morning and we've pitality offered and plodded on, intent never tasted anything so delicious. to end their misery at the earliest pos- Ada Pass itself is rather unique and sible moment. only 3200 ft. high. One continues to walk The Ade homestead is now unin- on a valley floor all the way and most of habited. It is reputed to be 28 miles it is grassed, with a gentle rise. It is away from civilization and as far as our only when you see the river flowing the daily progress was concerned, we were other way, do you realize you have again a little worried at the turn of actually gone over it. events. The rivers had risen considerably We all had some fun hunting for the and if we could not get out through hut. It ended up. with members hunting the Ada Pass and Cannibal Gorge, then members and giving them final directions it would involve a very long hike around since the hut is nestled in the bush edge indeed. about 15 minutes from the top of the Nevertheless, we were glad for the pass. shelter provided by the homestead that This hut was very small, which meant night. We lit a good fire and dried out that the majority again slept out. In our clothes. There were a number of fact it was impossible to get more than decrepid beds around but we used them. six in this hut. We were now really on There were also the famous gooseberry the last lap of our trip. Next day saw bushes which we raided. We had goose- us making down Cannibal Gorge to berries stewed for both the evening meal Maruia Springs. This is an old Maori and breakfast in such quantities that trading route and of course one is left to eventually we forfeited the tedious task surmise on the odd place name. of top and tailing and just are them as The gorge itself was not half as, bad they were. as some made out or even expected. The To provide some diversification, the local tramping club had a disced route antics of a domesticated cat with kittens which crossed the river séveral times: amused us. Since there was now plenty Since the river was up a bit, we did have some fun crossing at various points, but river. After this tremendous effort to with our combined efforts this was make ourselves again presentable for achieved without any mishap. public viewing, we were rather put out Lunch was had in hot sunshine just at on boarding the Lewis Pass bus to the bottom of the track leading up on Christchurch, to find a party of Tarato Lewis Pass. This represented a fair rau trampers in their longs and Sunday climb of 700 ft. straight up on to the best sporting, horror of horrors, a suitroad itself. The exit point is just a case each. stone's throw from the official top of Saturday the 8th January seemed to be the Lewis Pass, and three miles from the general signal for a number of the Maruia Springs Hotel. This meant three tramping parties from the south to miles of road bashing in hot sunshine, up and make homeward bound. On pack the everyone keen to get back to civilization ferry that night we spotted the Hutt and beer after 13 days away from it. We Valleys as well as the Tararuas and all booked in for a meal that night and there was a general exchange of trip ate everything; both in sight and out of accounts. sight. Then we proceeded to take over Most of the boys had to the the bar and give the locals and holiday- dormitories below and sleep in makers a hearty rendering of our most as Fraser put it choice songs. I must say it went down "pay for the privilege of sleeping with well and I personally was very proud of Julian." Maureen and I being the only our combined vocal achievements that girls, had a comfortable two-berth cabin night. to ourselves. Wellington was reached in It depended on the amount of liquor the early morning and everyone relucconsumed, as to whether some members tantly took their leave. slept down at the river or not. Some For the records, the total cost of the staggered a few yards away from the holiday, all inclusive with transport and hotel and slept under a tree. Their state food, was £12 10s. Od. each. I, perof mind was such that one had a good sonally, have never enjoyed a holiday so night's rest even on his ice axe and be- much, for so little. cause he could not find it on waking We literally covered a lot of ground, accused everyone else of having taken saw some magnificent scenery which it. would not have been possible by our- Well, with 14 days in the bush, the selves, and had the opportunity of makwhole party was looking a little dishevel- ing new friends. Half the party were led and worse for wear, what with beards unknown to us at the beginning (which and long hair. However, we did our best was probably a good thing!), but we did to spruce ourselves up. We had all enjoy their company. banked on the fact that we would have A personal thanks to Fraser who led a good "swim" in the hot springs, so it the trip. As trip leader he was was rather shattering to find that they to have had tea in bed every supposed were not working. Some of the boys we did our best and gave it to him morning; seven managed to scrounge a hot bath out of out of the 14. Better luck next time, the hotel, whilst the rest painfully tried Fraser, and thanks for with to get rid of the dust and grime in the us. Sabina putting Owen. up