An Ascent of Mt. Cook

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AN ASCENT OF MT. COOK Any mountaineer worth his salt has, After a snack we began the attack during his career, the ambition to climb proper and it wasn't long before we the highest peak in the land. So it was realised that we were in for a long with this aim in mind that three Tongue struggle as the rocks were coated in and Meats, John Watson, Dave Fowler six inches of ice- -chandeliers of the stuff and myself left Wellington on the 3rd decorated the rocks in a chaotic fashion. of February and journeyed to Mt. Cook. Four and a half hours flew by as we On arrival we were met by Graham surmounted roughly a thousand feet of Hancox and John Lawrence (N.Z.A.C.) iced-up rock, protecting ourselves with who were planning to leave the area ice screws and occasionally, to save time, after a week's disappointing weather. we turned to the rocks on the East face. It did not take much persuasion to Despite us all being equipped with convince John Lawrence that a week's tweive-point crampons, step cutting was fine weather was on its way, and thus necessary and it was common to take midday on the 5th of February saw four up to 35 minutes on a load. By heavily laden climbers crawling up Haast 10.30 a.m. we reached the ice cap after Ridge in perfect weather "en route" to some exciting climbing. the Grand Plateau. A pause here was necessary while I The 6th of February saw us loosen straightened out my crampons after they our limbs on the Anzacs, two 8000-ft. had buckled from front pointing on the peaks which form the southern wall of ice. The ice cap proved to be much the Plateau. That evening, a certain easier than the rocks and the final bearded gentleman by the name of Tom 1500 ft. of exposed ice ridge was Choate (O.S.O.N.Z.A.C.) had also in- climbed safely in 90 minutes, still bestalled himself at Plateau Hut. laying with ice screws, and by 12.30 p.m. The alarm was set for mid-night but we were standing on the summit of the by 11 p.m. several people were wander- highest point in New Zealand. ing about muttering something about no The views, as expected, were fantastic frost and too much wind. By midnight -the Tasman Sea rollers breaking on the only John Lawrence and Tom had de- West Coastline were clearly visible. Mts cided to give Cook a go while John Dampier, Hicks and La Perouse, all ten Weston and myself decided we were not thousand footers to the south, appeared going up the Linda (the most used route to be very small indeed. To the north on Cook but harzardous due to ava- Mt. Tasman looked unbelievable, its lanche) in such warm conditions. How- final 800 ft. of exposed ice ridge promised ever, by 1a.m. I decided to join John exciting climbing to anyone well versed and Tom. in the art of twelve-point crampons. We left Plateau Hut by 1.40 a.m. and Looking farther north Mt. D'Archiac, moved steadily across the plateau by which I had climbed earlier in the seatorchlight. I felt rather pessimistic as son, stood proudly in isolation. Even we met strong gusty winds and breakable the Kaikouras were plainly visible. wind crusted snow, but no one spoke as By 1.40 p.m. we reluctantly left the we made rapid progress through the summit and began our descent. By using lower Linda icefall, crossing some very every precaution at our disposal we spectacular snow bridges. Above the ice- reached the summit rocks by 3.15 p.m. fall we paused to listed to an avalanche The rocks proved as difficult on the crashing off the Gilberhorn face some- descent and by 7.30 p.m., after an abseil where behind us. This encouraged us not to reach the Linda shelf, we jumped a to dither as the Linda was a distinctly schrund to gain the Linda proper, now frightening place with avalanche debri disfigured with fresh avalanche debri. everywhere. As we approached the upper Darkness overtook us in the lower Linda Linda shelf the snow conditions im- icefall, and it was three very tired proved considerably and in fact, turned climbers who reached Plateau Hut at to very hard ice below the summit rocks. 10.15 p.m. Here we made a route-finding mistake We were very grateful to Dave who and traversed the ice shelf unnecessarily sacrificed sleep to wait up for us and which meant we reached the rocks much have steaming mugs of tea ready for us lower than is usual-the time now being to complete a most rewarding day. 6p.m. The wind was not now notice- Two days later John Watson climbed able and the weather was perfect. Mt. Cook with John Jordan (Taranaki)

and experienced similar conditions as ditions. It wasn't until 61 p.m. that we we did. staggered into Plateau Hut after a difficult climb under shocking conditions. Dave unfortunately missed out on an This proved to be the last climb attempt, but joined John Lawrence and of myself on an interesting approach to the the trip and we made our way down the south ridge of Mt. Dixon which we Haast ridge before the weather deteriorascended in worsening weather, the sum- ated. mit being reached at midday in a white- Thus ended a most rewarding and out and gale force winds, and the descent satisfying climbing season. down the south-west (Haast) ridge proved to be an epic under blizzard con- Ken McNatty.