Climbs in the Godley

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CLIMBS IN THE GODLEY After successful climbs of Earnslaw moderate standard. Unfortunately, (E. Peak) and Aspiring, Graham Wester- D'Archiac could not be seen due to the by, Peter Goodwin, Kevin Moynihan, low cloud and indeed, most of the sumand I travelled northwards to Lake mits in the Godley were covered in Tekapo. cloud. The descent was uneventful and the tent was reached 2 hours later. Due to the hospitality and assistance given by Brian Gott of Lilybank Sta- In the meantime, Kevin and Graham tion, we reached Godley hut at midday had left for the Dennistoun Glacier and on January 5th. Although the weather Mt. Onlooker which they climbed, delooked a little unsettled, we packed 10 scribing the rock as very loose. Their imdays' food into our packs and set off pression of D'Archiac was that the East for the head of the valley. On reaching Rib was steep but would present no probthe glacier, a nor'-wester had set in and lems. They returned safely to the tent by the time we had reached Dennistoun shortly after us. Corner we were feeling very cold and wet. It was with some relief that we Rain fell during the night and the folfound a sheltered camp site on the lowing morning, but by midday it cleared moraine wall. sufficiently for us to climb Pyramus, a very easy climb at the head of the val- It continued to rain for the next two ley. From the summit the views were days and time was passed in reading, still restricted due to low cloud, but we eating, and sleeping. On anticipating a were compensated for this by a thrilling wet spell we had carried a large number glissade from the summit to the glacier. of books up the glacier, the contents of During that evening the weather imwhich varied from Memoirs of a Woman proved so the alarm was set for 4.00 a.m. of Pleasure to Marxism and Dilectical Materialism. The 10th of January dawned fine and by 5.30 a.m. we were away cramponing On January 8th the weather cleared up the Dennistoun icefall and then across partially at about 10 a.m., so Peter and the neve. On reaching the foot I left for Mt. Commander, and climb- East Rib we roped up and climbed of the a ing very fast we reached the summit steep snow couloir, thus missing out 2t hours later. It was a rock climb of the lower sections of the rib.

As we progressed up the couloir the On Friday (13th January) Pete woke snow became softer and softer, rocks us up at 4.30 a.m., declaring the weather started to peel off above us and we was perfect, so by 5.45 a.m. we had left were rather relieved to gain the rib for Mt. McClure, a very attractive peak without incident. We were now on a on the main divide with ridges radiating steep arete-the snow conditions were into both the Godley and Havelock atrocious and required great care. We Rivers. Crampon conditions were perfect followed the rib until it petered out on and climbing very fast, we reached the to the face of D'Archiac. From here perfectly shaped summit at 7.30 a.m. two possible routes were open to us-the Unfortunately, the weather was defirst, a steep snow couloir on our left teriorating very fast, and with mist enlooked impractical due to soft snow and veloping us, our stay on the summit was rock avalanching continuously down it brief. -the second route was to sidle to the On the descent, we decided that we right and up steep sound rock. This might as well climb Dennistoun Pk. if proved to be a satisfactory route which we could find it. We cramponed across gave us access to the summit ridge, the top of the tributary to the Godley which to our disappointment consisted icefall and then climbed quite high on of this very wet soft snow that we had to the eastern slopes of Dennistoun experienced lower down. Kevin led off where we waited for + an hour for the on a steep exposed sidle of the corniced mist to clear. On checking our route we summit ridge-here belays were useless then continued upwards thro' a crevassed and care was needed not to destroy the area, then Pete led a difficult pitch to steps. A cold southerly wind kept us on gain the summit ridge and I led thro' the move and at 12.30 p.m. we were to the summit rocks at 10.5 a.m. We standing on the summit gazing at the stayed only long enough to confirm we big white ones to the south-west. were on the summit, then abseiled off After an hour of eats and photographs the summit ridge and retraced our steps we were again on the move, this time to the Godley glacier, reaching the tent retracing our steps, making the deviation at 12.15 p.m. of descending directly down the East The weather deteriorated during the face skirting the icefall and schrunds afternoon but cleared again the followunder the East Rib. We reached the neve ing morning. So after breakfast we by glissading in crampons on fixed be- broke camp and left for Godley hut lay. The easy walk downhill across the which we reached at midday. It was very neve was a pleasing way to end a most satisfying to scrape 10 days' grime from satisfactory climb. The tent was reach our bodies and to drink clear running at 6.00 p.m. stream water rather than water from a We awoke fitfully the following morn- dirty glacial sink hole. ing to a howling nor'-west wind, the cloud ceiling back to 5500 ft. One tent The following day was spent in sunpole snapped during a very strong gust bathing and brewing and the promise of and many trips outside were necessary further fine weather encouraged us to to repair broken guy lines. About mid- set the alarm for the following morning. day the wind died down, but showers We failed to hear the alarm, but kept us in our pits all afternoon. Dur- nevertheless Pete made sure we left the ing the evening the rain stopped and the hut at 5.30 a.m. Three hours later we çloud ceiling lifted. The alarm was set had plodded up Separation Stream and for 5 a.m. However, the following morn- across the Butcher Glacier to Twilight ing the rain and cloud were still present col. From the col, Kev. and Graham but by midday the rain had stopped. traversed Mt. Coates while Peter and I After lunching we set off for Malthus climbed Mt. Earle, both climbs being Pk. which proved to be a very soft snow straightforward. The return downstream plod ending in a rock scramble. The was hot and tiring and it was good to final 500ft. or so we climbed in lightly see the hut after an energetic day. falling snow and a complete whiteout. This proved to be our last climbing The summit was reached at 2.30 p.m. day as Pete, Graham, and Kev. deand immediately we began the descent cided to go back to work. January 17th -the snow conditions proved atrocious was spent in walking down the neverand several falls required checking. The ending Godley riverbed to Lilybank Statent was reached in lightly falling rain. tion thus terminating an enjoyable spell Despite the dismal weather, the alarm of climbing. was again set for 5 a.m. -Ken McNatty.