Wilkin-Matukituki-Dart

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WILKIN-MATUKITUKI-DART It began well; a ride in a jet-boat down ing flats below. Ian Macgregor's sketch the Makarora and then up the Wilkin maps come in handy and a snow sidle River. The wind tugged at our clothes brings us to a rocky gut leading to a and a high plume of spray flew up be- snowgrass spur angling off down to the hind as the boat hurtled round corners, valley. "Oh, my knees-those flats look thumped over rapids, and skimmed over good though." At last the long jolting stretches of flat water where the river descent ends and we stroll down the boulders seemed only inches from the flats to another perfect campsite just hull. Finally, a swirling turn and we're above Ruth Flats and our next obstacle; there-Kerin Forks, the starting point the Bledisloe Gorge. of our Christmas trip. Yet another perfect day. "Please, trip The party: Brian Hunt (leader), Peter leader, when can we have a rest day? Goodwin, Ken Churchill, Noel Thomas, This weather's too good." Moir promises Lyell Mason, Kevin Moynihan, Neville considerable difficulty on the next leg of Taylor and Murray Hall. The aim: up our trip. Fortunately, however, the deep the south branch of the Wilkin, over recess of the gorge hold few terrors for into the East Matukitiuki, down the veterans of the Waichine and the Rua- Bledisloe Gorge, up the West Matukituki, mahanga. "We must be really ruggered over Cascade Saddle, and down the Rees jokers." An extra hour down from or the Dart. Junction Flats proves too much for us Now the walking part. A slow plod up -we sink down into the lush grass to Jumboland Hut in light rain-how within sight of Aspiring homestead and is it that one forgets in only twelve a day of rest is decreed. Time to mend months how heavy an eighty-five pound gear, heal wounds and improve suntans. pack is? The following five days merge into "Hey you jokers. What say next one continum, agreeable, with good com- Christmas we hire a Landrover, load pany. and the occasional diversion, yet her up with rifles, fishing gear, surf relatively unexciting. A pleasant rest boards, come down here the easy way- day in the east branch, a scorching hot live off the land?" walk up the west, and four wet days at leather, the foot of Cascade Saddle. A few high- Plod, plod, plod. Creaking lights-hospitality at Aspiring station, a aching shoulders, Jumboland Hut a wel- day in Wanaka when transport offered, come sight as the rain really begins to seeing the New Year in at Aspiring Hut set in. with Vat 69 and folk songs, and an That night, excitement as Lyell brings abortive attempt to cross Cascade saddie in our first venison; the next morning, in extreme cold, with snow down to the disappointment at rain and a leaden bush-line. sky. The afternoon brings clearing After the retreat, wet tents are abanweather and we swag up to Top Forks, doned in favour of Cascade Hut. Finally Castor and Pollux still swathed in cloud. the weather seems to clear and we start Christmas Day at Top Forks-one of the long climb again. Snow falls as we those mornings you don't forget-crisp near the top but snow poles guide us air, the thick grass wet with dew, Castor over a safe route and soon we are and Pollux glistening in an Ectochrome struggling along the ridge towards the sky. There's a big day ahead SO we leave saddle proper, breaking through fresh early, up the south branch. Thick bush, snow as wind driven flakes sting our "where the hell was the last blaze," faces. A long wet stumble down featurethen scrub, blood and sweat and we less moraine brings us to Dart Hut. come out into the basin at the top of Full of climbers-three more hours down the south branch. to Cattle Flat, and a long hard day ends Now our first obstacle; the steep water- well at a comfortable rock bivvy. Boots fall which bars the way to the saddle off-oh, the relief! Dry clothes, a brew, with the East Matukituki. We go to bed and the satisfied contentment that only that night as lengthening shadows turn such a day can bring. steep slopes into overhanging cliffs and A good beginning, and a thoroughly darkness obliterates likely looking ledges. enjoyable end. A day drying out at The morning, however, brings more per- Cattle Flats, and then a long easy walk fect weather and few problems. An out to Paradise, with delightful scenery hour's climb sees us past the waterfall as lush flats and sparkling river alternate and soon after we look down on to the with cool, open beech forest, the fresh wide, grassy flats of the East Matuki- snow of the previous days unbelievably tuki. white on the peaks. "Where to now"? An 800-foot preci- Then home again, to dream and plan pice still separates us from the beckon- for next year. Murray Hall.