Wellington Tramping and Mountaineering Club 1968 Andean Expedition

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Wellington Tramping and Mountaineering Club 1968 Andean Expedition Despite our defeat on the North ridge left to attempt the South and low peaks of Pumasello, we evacuated our camps of Mellizos, an 18,500ft. twin-peaked quickly and safely despite the fact that giant which dominated the area around Bob McKerrow had mildly frostbitten Base Camp. John, Dick, Bob and Allen feet and John Lawrence was completely had previously made a first ascent of snowblind. A great deal of credit must the North peak from the north via a go to Paul who made four trips to our spectacular avalanched-swept face. Their camp at 19,000 ft. carrying loads in packs weighing in excess of sixty excess of 60 lbs.-a fine effort. pounds made the travelling difficult, As John had to return to the States but after a fine effort in waist-deep snow, on July 10, this was to be his last climb they established a camp at 17,000ft. and most of them spent a week re- high on the south ridge. With fine, cuperating while catching up on their settled weather and a feeling of isolaletter-writing for John to post. Although tion, they retired for a comfortable this was deemed a rest period, Dick early night's sleep. They left camp Cowan and Allen Higgens left Base at dawn the following day and after Camp with four days food, to attempt surmounting several difficult ice pitches, an unnamed, unmapped virgin peak found themselves on a heavily corniced down valley. This was expected to be at the base of a tottery, una rock climb- -however to their disap- sdbie ice needle. With considerable pointment they found it to be primarily tension and delicate balance, they reacha snow and ice climb. They made their ed a position where they could reach ascent in misty conditions and named up and touch the delicate summit which the peak "Nevado Reyerta". would have collapsed had any weight On July 3, John departed for civilisa- been placed upon it. The descent was tion, and a day later Dick, Allen, Bob slow and it was a relief for them to and Ken left to attempt the virgin north reach safe ground again. With the ridge of Nevado Blanco. However the low peak an hour's travel away, they night before the attempt, they experi- continued towards it and again the sumenced a very heavy snowfall and aban- mit was of a very tottery nature. In doned their high camp and retreated fact through a huge hole below the to Base Camp. The snowfall continued summit they could look down on base for two further days making any further camp. Paul and Ken were satisfied in climbing impossible in the immediate touching the top. with their ice axes. future. During this time Mac took the They reached their high camp early in opportunity of filming activity at Base the afternoon well pleased with their Camp. efforts. The following day they made While at Base, chess became a popu- the third party ascent of Cima Rocollosa lar pastime and the BBC news kept them and reached Base Camp to learn the well informed on events in the outside others had traversed both Redondo and world. With definite signs of settled Kaiko, while Dick and Peter had made weather, Dick, Allen, Bob and Ken estab- the first ascent and traverse of Torayoc lished themselves once more in their via the east face. high camp to attempt Nevado Blanco. Mac Riding, Dick, Allen and Peter The following day despite an early start Goodwin, after two days rest, left down they were again thwarted in their at- valley to explore and film some Inca tempt after 9hours climbing. They were ruins which had been pointed out by unable to reach the North ridge and re- the Indians. Paul, Bob and Ken left turned to their high camp after a hard to attempt the North ridge of Nevado day of 14 hours climbing, in soft snow Blanco which had defeated the expediconditions. They decided to abandon tion in three previous attempts. They the attempt until the snow conditions also made the first ascent of an unnamed improved. peak which they named Hidden Peak, as Two days later, Ken and Paul Green earlier in the trip there had been some ) ( dispute of its existence. To ensure success on Nevado Blanco they established Top: A. Higgins, Mac Riding. a high camp only 1,000ft. from the sum- Centre: K. McNatty (Leader). mit. That night they witnessed a spec- Bottom: P. Goodwin, P. Green. tacular thunderstorm over the Amazon some 50 miles to their north. On July

20, after some very spectacular climb- ridge. It was a picturesque camp-site ing along a tottery, twisting, bulging on an island in the middle of a glacier ridge, they gained the summit at 10 a.m., lake with stepping stones to the shore. via another previously virgin ridge. They left their camp early next Mac and the others found the trip to morning to establish a camp at about the Inca ruins of considerable interest 18.500ft. on the West Ridge of Pumaand recorded it on film. They found sillo. The glacier gave them some their descent to 10,000ft. uncomfort- trouble and several times they had to ably warm and were glad to be back haul their packs on ropes. By midto the cooler altitudes of 14-15,000ft. morning they were gazing up on the at Base Camp. steep avalanche-swept flutings-the gate- It was during this period the mem- way to the west ridge. Although bers had noticed their food dump at they felt they could carry the heavy steep, Base was being pillaged. At first they packs up the flutings in one determined blamed either Rats or Urscacha, which push. Unfortunately they underestimare a squirrel-like rabbit which seem ated the difficulties, finding themselves to thrive at these altitudes. However, on very steep ice, balanced precariously one night they discovered the culprit- on the front claws of their crampons. an Indian dog. Many evil schemes were Flying ice from above threatened them planned to remove this pest. They fi- continuously. Ken was the target three nally hollowed out a raw potato, filling times, the last one almost knocking him it with sleeping pills and laxatives. They from his stance. A fall would have noticed the following morning the po- been fatal and they felt they were tato was missing and had no further burning their bridges with no trouble with their animal pest. at all. It was a credit to their support ability On July 26, Dick Cowan, Peter Good- on ice that they retreated without inwin and Allen Higgins made the first cident. ascent of an unnamed granite peak They retraced their steps to their which they named Pico Granito, Mac island camp in deteriorating weather, Riding accompanied them to obtain glad to rest their ankles after their film material. The highlight of the trip efforts on steep ice. That night and was the chance to use a wood fire- the next day it snowed heavily. forcthe first and only time this had been ing them to abandon Pumasillo for possible on the entire trip. This good. climb brought our total to 25 ascents When the weather cleared, they deson 18 peaks. cended to the valley floor and ascended Two days later, Paul, Ken and Bob a 17,000ft. pass to take them into the left on a 10-day climbing and explora- unknown western valleys. Their return tory trip to valleys south and west of to Base Camp via four previously untheir own. They were grateful of the known valleys and three 16,500ft. passes assistance given by Peter and Mac to proved to be an epic on low food assist them in carrying their loads to rations with considerable uncertainty to the top of the 17,500ft. Mitre Col. their whereabouts until the last day. The With food and climbing equipment for highlight of this trip was the informa- 10 days, their packs were in excess of tion gathered on the area's topography 70lbs.--t tiring work at high altitudes. and a trip along a little known Inca They left Mac and Peter on the Col and road which was in a good state of preafter lowering their packs to safer ground servation. The remarkable aspect of on the other side, they were left to this Inca road was its steady gradation their own devices with no support for weaving its way across or along horrific 10 days. Descent of the Mitre glacier bluffs. It didn't seem to follow the nain waist-deep snow with heavy packs tural contours of the land, sacrificing was tiring work. Disaster almost struck this to maintain its steady gradation when an avalanche nearly swept them in crossing a 16,000ft. pass then descendinto a hugh crevasse. With tempers ing into the jungles of the Amazon. rising and also completely exhausted, They returned tu base, finding Mac and darkness overtook them before they Allen still down-valley obtaining film were off the snow, so they camped material on the Indians. Peter and Dick where they were. Both Bob and Paul had just returned from making two first had lost feeling in their feet and the ascents on unclimbed peaks at the head following day, once off the glacier, they of the valley. These peaks were on lay in the sun warming themselves and the Mitre-Pumasillo ridge, both about regaining their waning enthusiasm. In 19,500ft.-a very fine effort. They had the afternoon they packed up to a camp named these peaks Nevados, Fortaleza below the Pumasillo glacier on the west and Copo de Nieve (Mts. Fortress and

Snow Flake). They informed us snow weather, but despite the conditions, Juan conditions were deteriorating. Peter had and Simeon turned up barefooted in fallen 30ft. into a crevasse after a the snow, loaded the mules, and invited snow bridge had collapsed. Being well us to spend that night with their fainto August, the weather was now de- milies before returning to civilization. teriorating, being quite unsettled. This proved to be a wonderful ex- Having 14 days left before departing perience they were obviously sad we for civilisation, Mac Riding, Peter Good- were leaving and overwhelmed us with win and Ken McNatty left on a 10-day kindness. The Indian diet at best is mapping and exploratory trip into the monotonous, consisting of Potato soup valleys east of Base Camp. With no served twice per meal and three times climbing gear and lightly equipped, daily, occasionally with meat, which is they, made a traverse of four valleys, usually guinea pig or beef. It is, howgaining many bearings and made friends ever, well cooked and filling. Simeon's wih an Indian family who had never family went without meat to ensure made contact with white men before. we had some-a gesture we deeply ap- With difficulty they also learnt the In- preciated. dian names for "peak", "passes" and The following morning after an emo- "valleys", which helped to clear up a tional farewell, we set off with Juan great number of blanks on the map. and Simeon, leaving behind our valley The Indians, realising we were about in the clouds with considerable regret. to leave, increased their visits to Base Our return two days later to the dirty, Camp, saturating them with fresh po- squlid jungle town of Santa Teresa was tatoes and fresh milk in exchange for filled with sadness. Juan and Simeon empty saleable tins and plastic bags. were clearly uncomfortable at these low They also exchanged climbing, ropes altitudes and with the number of people for beautifully braided cow-hide and who viewed us with pestering curiosity. mule hair lassos. Two of their Indian We had an hour to wait before the friends, Juan Pablo and Simeon, to- train arrived to take us to the jungle gether with Juan's children, in particu- town of Chaullay, where our friends lar, made many trips to Base and be- were expecting us with our mail and came firm friends with the expedition clean clothes. We took time out to remembers. Juan and Simeon were con- tire to a squalid beerhouse and thank tracted to carry our equipment to civili- our friends Juan and Simeon for their zation on eight mules for eight kerosine tremendous help and friendship. drims and 960 soles (about 24 dollars). The great adventure was over and our The last few days packing up their long trip back to Lima and New Zeacamp, they were -lagued with very poor land was understandably anticlimatic. Incidents With The Indians Mac and Allen were enjoying a break carriage to be looking their way. We from the rigours of climbing by wander- seemed one hell of a joke to the Ining around "our valley" photographing dians. Then in an instant Bob reached the Indian families at work. They were in his gear and produced a knife and camped one morning by Juan Pablo's flicked it open. Chatter ended, replaced house when there was a hell of a com- by amazement and excitement; all eyes motion caused by Juan's pooch running bulged and waited for Bob to strike. down the valley hell for leather after Calmly and deliberately Bob's hand fell a very fr ightened deer. The local boys to the floor and produced an orange are no sluggards and in a matter of which he deftly peeled. It was hard to seconds Mareo and Simoen had produced tell if the locals were glad or disapa cowhide lasso and strangled the startled pointed with the outcome. animal. Mac and Allen photographed Gringo's are loco. It was not hard proceedings to prove to us they were to. interpret these thoughts of our not seeing things. friendly truck driver as we left to the Being tourists but looking rough, and higher ground. During the last four travelling second class obviously puzzled hours we had crawled from 4,000 ft." to our fellow train passengers. While mak- 15,000 ft. We found water on the pass ing a two-day journey from Arequipa to and hopped into our pits to prepare tea Cuzco we passed the time having the just as the rather chilly Andean evening odd beer and by doing a 1oy of arguing. began. We had no tent so were rather Dick and Bob were obliging with both, dependant on the weather holding good. towards the overnight stop at Julliaca. Sleep was not far away when we heard Their voices being raised and heated a flute being played-at 15,000 ft. and so as to cause every pair of eyes in the at 6 p.m.! Two "hepped up" Indians appeared, where they were going or Not being wealthy and feeling quite where they come from we didn't know. capable of heaving around 150 lb. tea This was followed by that wettish feel- chests ourselves Mac, Allen and myself ing so well known to all trampers; soon were often stared at by Indians and it was no longer funny so we packed up tourists (rubbernecks) alike. The Puno our bundles and headed for the only stationmaster thought different and desshelter near the pass-a shrine. This pite our protests employed a couple of particular shrine was about 10 ft. by fellows to put our four chests and three 8 ft., made of rock and thatch and it's packs on the scales. An exception had only decoration were brightly coloured to be made so I paid the fellows 5 material, flowers and candles; all most soles (about 12 cents). They laughed effective. The idea is that people don't and indicated 40 soles. I laughed also, congregate once a week but call in when put the soles in my pocket and walked passing. away with our employees in tow. They We did not wish to offend by sleeping must have felt we were going to weaken there but decided that no trucks travel as they spent much time laughing and over thep ass at night. How wrong we joking with bystanders as we strode up were. Three mummy bags across the dirt the main street. floor must have made a scary sight as Twenty minutes later I opened one eye and saw the truck following but the they were still driver's hair stand on end and then situation was not so gradually settle back into place as .we funny. The price was now 20 soles. answered him, reassuring him we were Further time reduced the price to 10 alive. He was a very relieved man. soles so I tendered 6 and both parties Our next disturbance was a whole walked away relatively happy. - truck load of Indians who thought we Ever heard about hotelkeepers who were one huge joke, making it obvious charge 20 soles( 50 cents) per night for we had not offended their religious be- a bed and then want a total of 80 soles liefs by sleeping there. They produced because there were four beds in the oranges and lemons so many that by room occupied by three of us? Yes he morning and four trucks later we could was hold to go there!! - have opened a fruit store. - A train conductor on the Urubamba Having split up the equipment we line had a novel way of asking whether traveled back to Lima in two groups. you were or With a fair bit to move, it was a burden would ask Inglis Winston Norte-Americano. Churchill He to our mobility. For the wealthy it was Kennedy?" From the 1st class or John no problem-they merely paid some of (second class tickets) and free seats the locals (there were always hundreds) allowance there no doubt who baggage who waited to give their services. Each was. his ideal stop mean't a shift from station, to hotel, to bus etc.