Pumasillo I North Ridge

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Pumasillo I North Ridge "Good luck- -bring back piton left summit Pumasillo 1962."- Hearfield (cable to expedition on leaving New Zealand). Saturday, 29th June, Pemasillo Base Mac Riding, Allen Higgins and Dick Camp. Cowan were to be the support party and the second foursome for the sum- Dear Mum, Dad, Colin and Mervyn,- mit. Yesterday we all returned from Puma- From base camp. to the North Pumasillo (20,450ft.) after an unsuccessful sillo glacier was a journey of two hours attempt at the north ridge. This has with a heavy pack-here we made been our hardest climb and one which dump. The sertinn of a gear the involved some difficult decisions. I sus- glacier we called dangerous the gauntlet and we pected that the route was going to be established Camp I on a snow mound extremely difficult as previous expedi- below this. Avalanches passed Camp I tions have stated that there is only one continuously on both sides but the site feasible route on the mountain, via the was a good one and we were established west ridge. Although we failed, we there on June 25. Just before dark we climbed two other unclimbed peaks on heard a huge avalanche, and the way to the high summit of Puma- it was heading our way we dived thinking out sillo, which we missed by only 200ft. of the tent and discovered it would The northern approach to Pumasillo miss us by miles. involved the ascent of a glacier which On the 26th we left for the north fell over a height of 4,000ft. (re from ridge, John and Bob establishing a 19,000ft. to 15,000ft.). It was a parti- route while Paul and I followed with cularly dangerous glacier-huge crevas- very heavy packs weighing about 60lbs. ses and from 16-17,000ft. there was a Ascending the gauntlet was a nervelarge avalanche area with gigantic two- racking experience, but was carried out storey seracs ready to collapse without without incident. At about 18,000ft, warning in our path. Our first decision with heavy packs, the altitude hit Bob was whether we were justified in ascend- and I badly-we were exhausted and ing this glacier in view of the tremen- near collapse. Paul and John, feeling dous risks. We decided we were but, in better condition, left Bob and I to if any major avalanche swept this establish a route on to the ridge. Feelsection we would withdraw. ing annoyed at our distressed physical condition, Bob and I forced ourselves Above this glacier the north ridge on until we made the ridge at 1.30 rose to an unnamed, unclimbed peak and collapsed beside Paul and (near 20,000ft.)-then along to a huge Tohin gasping for air. Carrying 60lbs. at high snow peak close to Pumasillo and * 19,000ft. is like carrying 120lbs. at sea only a few hundred feet lower and we level, but much more mentally distresscalled this peak Pumasillo Chico (we ing as you seem to lack the same drive have now named this peak Lazona). up there. It is definitely the most ex- I chose John Lawrence, Bob McKer- hausted state I have ever experienced. row, Paul Green and myself for the first After a rest, Paul and I left Bob and summit party, while Peter Goodwin, John to establish Camp II and descended to Camp I. John and Bob to attempt draw from our evaluation of the circumthe summit the following day, while Paul stances. and I were to return to Camp II with We had an early tea and retired to an further supplies and attempt the sum- early night but once again I couldn't mit in two days' time. sleep, the wind keeping me awake. A While we were packing to Camp II, sleeping pill helped and I awoke in the Dick, Allen, Mac and Peter had brought morning to find my feet were completely further supplies to Camp I then returned numb. John and I were to leave early to base camp. The following day they and tell the others at Camp I of our dewere to establish themselves at Camp I cision to abandon the climb. Putting on while we moved up to Camp II. my boots was a painful experience and I slept badly that night. It was bit- I cried with the pain. Even when we terly cold and windy-the flapping tent, had left camp and were moving the avalanches and tension prevented a re- pain was sufficient to keep me weeping. laxed state of mind. The following I think this was simply because you feel morning the wind was still blowing and far more emotional at high altitude. we left for Camp II moving fast through John was partially snow blind and the the gauntlet, wary of flying icicles which descent to Camp I proved difficult. We were a particular hazard of this sec- arrived there before the others had tion. We reached Camp II in good started breakfast and we told them the time and in far better condition than the news. previous day. We had breakfast and at 10 a.m. Paul Camp II was at about 19,200ft. and and Bob arrived-Bob's feet still numb. the altitude there is quite noticeable. Paul completed an amazing feat of en- You move more slowly; breath deeply durance by returning with Mac to Camp and talk slowly and deliberately. It II to bring the rest of the gear down. was hard to think of complex things, By now John was completely snowand I had a terrific desire for cold le- blind and couldn't see at all. I roped mon drinks-solid foods didn't interest up with him and Bob and me descended me too much. to Base Camp. Our descent was slow At 2.00 p.m. we heard a yodel and and it was with much relief we reached an hour later John and Bob returned. the snow gra SS. Bob's feet are getting They were exhausted and Bob had lost better - no permanent damage - John's all feeling in his feet. Their news was eyes are still sore and he can't see too disappointing - they traversed the two well just yet. The other boys have unclimbed peaks but were unable to con- brought all the gear back to base camp tinue the final section to Pumasillo. Ac- and we're spending a few days resting cording to John the ridge disappeared and eating as we're pretty run down. into a huge gut-with appallingly soft We tried our very best on Pumasillo. south-facing snow-the remainder of the One day I'm sure the North ridge will ridge consisted of about five rock pin- be climbed- perhaps a heavy snow year nacles with snow-capped mushroom for- might make all the difference. Maybe mations making access back on to the later in the trip we'll attempt Pumasillo ridge questionable. John declared the by the normal ridge but for the present ridge a more frightenening spectacle we have 4-5 unclimbed peaks still to than the slums of Calcutta, while Bob attempt in our valley. I'm still set on found the exposure appalling double the unclimbed north ridge of Nevado cornices over 6,000 feet of space. Blanco. Of greater concern to them was re- I'm quite pleased at our record of turning to Camp II along a tottery 15 ascents on 12 peaks, 6 for the first honeycombed ridge which had barely time after 4 weeks of climbing. held their weight. The ridge was a John leaves us tomorrow and this is oncer and they decided any further probably the last time I'll be able to traffic along it would be suicide. The keep you informed of our progress until relief on their faces at Camp II was September when we'll be out of the evident enough of the tense struggle they mountains. had been engaged in. They had ob- I'm feeling quite fit now and cultivatviously pushed themselves to their limit ing an agreeable ginger beard which I and were glad to be back on the land keep trimmed. I've spent a very domesof the living. ticated morning darning, washing and Bob's feet worried us and on taking tidying my tent. I'm thinking of tryoff his boots we found there was no ing to get an even suntan for the New permanent tissue damage and his frost- Zealand summer. bite was superficial. The only decision I hope all well at home and the we could make was to abandon the climb winter isn't too cold. -we could do no more. This was diffi- Husta Cuego. cult to do and the conclusion we had to KEN.