Hollyford - a Pyke, Christmas, 1968

Machine-read text (unproofread)

Read from the scans by software, so it contains mistakes. Typing it up properly would help blind readers: use Suggest an edit.

Hollyford - a Pyke, Christmas, 1968 This trip was originally thought up Saddle. From here we looked across to by Ann McSweeny and Brian Hunt, the magnificence of the snow capped who intended leading a trip of his own Darrens ranging the length of the green on a roughly parallel course in the Hollyford valley through which the river same area. Therefore our little com- wound like a silver thread. pany of Ann, Jan Dick, Brian Goodwin and Bill Hargreaves were able to In our haste to savour the delights benefit greatly from the experience of of this promised land we discarded any this master organiser who prepared his attempt to discover the track which trips in such infinite detail. branched off at some point further to our left. but instead plunged straight down through the tangled bush to The late evening of Christmas Day emerge, after a couple of painful and found both parties crowded into the frustrating hours, at the lip of a great tiny Glenorchy pub at the head of Lake scree along the foot of which a stream Wakatipu being entertained by the descended into the tree lined defiles. sparkling expertise of Ralph Jorgenson Undismayed this prospect we slowly whose nimble fingers rattled the keys of edged down tic right hand ancient precipitous the Joanna with devastating ef- edge of the screc only to discover that fect. the apparent stream was of somewhat larger proportions and cascaded sharp- Next morning we were ferried across ly down a series of unnegotiable drops. the lake by Mr. Bryant, who, alighting As the light was fast fading, and an at the farther shore, discarded his nau- attempt by Jan and Brian to discover tical role and re-emerged from the dim an escape route to our right proved recesses of a farm shed at the wheel unsuccessful, we decided to throw in of an open top char a banc of uncer- the sponge for the day and tain wearily vintage. Appearances were decep- inched back upwards through the bush tive for we shot off in this seeming keeping a sharp watch for any relic likely at a high rate of knots swaying spot on that near vertical incline. Spirits perilously over the twisting and broken revived on discovering a fallen tree in a Routeburn road guided by the steady state of mouldering decomposition which hand of the venerable Bryant whose un- provided a comfortable niche for Anne ceasing flow of hoary anecdotes were and Bill, whilst the inter-twining roots roared happily, but alas unintelligibly of two lofty beeches formed a cosy into the rushing wind. bower for Jan and Brian. Leaving Brian's happy band at their chosen point, the bus rolled on to the A diminutive shelf on the moonlight end of the road and the start of the slopes of the scree became the setting track. Here, with the old rattletrap fast for the evening meal with everyone disappearing behind clouds of swirling edging nervously around the firs lest dust, we turned into the deep beech for- they or other vital pieces of equipment ests and climbed steadily upwards for hurtling down into the dark abyss a couple of hours. Quite suddenly the belowur trees fell away to reveal a sweeping expanse of open flats encompassed in a It was not until late the following ring of bushclad mountains. At the afternoon, after a gruelling struggle further end of this vast arena on the along the densely bushed slopes, that slopes leading towards the Harris Saddle a spur was finally discovered which led were perched the two Routeburn Huts. off that miserable hill and into the cool It was just below these smooth examples running waters of the Hollyford river of tourist luxury, alongside the foam- that had sparkled so tantalisingly below ing Routeburn cataracts that we rigged during the course of that torrid day. up the fly before an attentive audience Refreshed in spirit and body we soon of ever curious Keas. covered the five miles to the termination of the Hollyford road and the be- Early next day we toiled upward once ginning of the track, passing on the way more beneath a deep blue sky through the grave of one Donald Keith of Scotpatches of softly treacherous snow to land who had expired here from exthe 5000 ft. pommel of the Harris haustion over two years before. After our own trials we could feel a certain neath the nearby trees. Fortune smiled sympathy with htis unfortunate explorer. oncè more when a couple of success- During the night the aggressive com- ful hunters drifted in generously offermon sandfly became more apparent and - ing a succulent hunk of venison into we hastily broke camp prompted by its which, that evening, our teeth ripped ever increasing attentions. in hungry appreciation bringing welcome relief to the monotony of our diet. The sun was rising steadily in an azure sky as we pushed along the track Next day we carefully picked our way which skirted the banks of the river up the long shoreline of Lake Alacoiling leisurely towards the Tasman baster, littered with the occasional putre- Sea. At the Hidden Falls flats we thank- fying eel, finding the going fairly easy fully dropped onto the soft grass in with only one sidle into the steep anticipation of a lazy afternoon basking bush at the further end descending abin the warmth of the beaming sun. How- ruptly onto the northern shore. From ever, what until now had appeared as this point on, the beaten track virtually a mild affication, stood revealed in all faded away, having suffered the ravages its horror as swarms of the umbiquitous of the swift flowing Pyke, reappearing sandflies fell eagerly upon us thrusting only briefly further inland. After wasttheir disgusting little snouts deep into ing considerable time ploughing hopeour skins happily gorging themselves on lessly around the tangled marshes at the our blood. Relaxation was impossible, head of the lake we finally emerged the only. escape from these winged mon- on the bank of the Pyke in belated sters being perpetual motion thereby realisation that the only effective means making nonsense of our original inten- of progress would be achieved by staytions. Happily the soft mantle of dark- ing as close to the river as possible; ness brought welcome relief from these divergence from this course resulting plaguey insects but the effects of their solely in becoming hopelessly bogged attacks were still manifest on our smart- down in the soft marshes inland. ing skins. With the weather still holding fair Came the dawn and the streaming we struggled on the following day enrays of yet another sunny day filtered ticed by the prospect of the airdrop through those parts of the green nylon that awaited us at Barrier River which, tent that were as yet free from the although consisting mainly of iron racrawling hosts of evil sandflies buzzing tions that had supported us until this in joyous anticipation of our inevitable juncture, contained such mouthwateremergence. Breakfast and departure ing delicacies as Christmas pudding, were frenzied affairs each part of the peaches and cream with which we inoperation being completed at a des- tended to celebrate the dawn of the perate speed until at last we plunged New Year. What parts of the track that gratefully once more into the green had survived the hungry river were woods following a well defined track ancient but well defined having been which rose steadily above and away formed by the hooves of countless steers from the river. Over the Little Homer on their journey from the grazing passaddle with glimpses to the left of Tu- tures at the Barrier river to the head toko, 9,042 ft., and Christina 8,500 ft., of the Hollyford Valley, 30 miles down their snowfields and glaciers glistering stream. These bygone herds had been in icy splendour, then down to a steam- run by one Davie Gunn, a legendary ing billy of tea by the tumbling waters figure in these valleys, who perished in of the Little Homer falls. the Hollyford River on Christmas Day. 1956, whilst attempting to rescue a party At the southern end of Lake Alabas- of distressed trampers, a tablet on the ter, reached in the late afternoon, the nearby bank testifies to his bravery. Hollyford moves swiftly away to the west and Lake McKerrow, being re- The Olivine and Diorite rivers were placed at the northern end of the lake by crossed with ease and in the late afterthe river Pyke. The Alabaster hut was noon we approached the Barrier river generously equipped with the luxury of flats our hungry eyes searching anxiousfoam mattresses, much appreciated by ly for the red and yellow calico squares Ann and Bill, whilst the more spartan by which the supplies had descended. half of the party, distaining such com- It was with some alarm that we finally forts, elected to pitch their tents be- espied our precious bundles clasped in the arms of hurrying figures. However, with a vengeance as the wind, livening our fears were forgotten when these to a. fury, swept rain down the valleys forms on our rapid approach turned out and into the mysterious Red Hills which to be Bill Graham, a South Island farm- glowed darkly through the general er, and his two sons Brian and Chris, murk. A pensive little band stood conwhose cheerful company we had enjoyed templating this prospect with a marked at intervals on the way in. Eager hands lack of enthusiasm. Ahead lay thirty tore into these vital packages strewing miles of rugged hill country, movement their assorted contents in confusion through which depended upon fine upon the green sward, pleasure at the weather, a condition it would seem feast to come being somewhat temper- likely to be denied us. ed by the realisation that our packs It was still possible to rendezvous would be restored to their original with our transport at Arowhata Bridge weight. In the midst of this abundance by moving out west to the coast and Bill Graham described herds of deer then up the long seaboard, but the grazing quietly on nearby flats, so the of through five rifle, until now a wearisome burden, was prospect miles of soft ploughing sand on an forty weather swiftly despatched to the scene and our shore was not considered exposed a reasonable supplies were soon swollen by several alternative. pounds of rich venison. There remained only one direction Dinner that night alongside the de- in which we could move with any concaying corrals of Davie Gunn's phan- fidence and that lay behind us, a distom herds was a royal affair, and it mal but necessary end to our high amwas four happy gastronomes who finally bitions. So in the streaming rain we rolled into their sacks under star studded began our hurried retreat, aware that skies. from countless gullies and creeks the rushing waters would be coursing down After a pleasant day in these golden to swell the rivers lying across our meadows, we broke camp and crossed path, a factor that lent urgency to our the Barrier intending to reach that day weary legs. the head of the Pyke, from where we would strike up into the Red Hills and The edges of Lake Willmot are the unknown beyond. The skies were closely crowded by the steep hills which partly obscured by grey clouds, an omin- run abruptly into the dark waters. It ous portent of the evils to come, as was about halfway down its length that we moved up past Lake Willmot and the fast falling dusk obliged us to make along the winding Upper Pyke River. camp. on a slender arm which reached After an unpleasant diversion into a out into the broken waters. Despite densely overgrown swamp, we came in the lashing wind and rain a fire was sight of a small hut where, we had cunningly generated from a few unpreviously learnt, a meat hunter was likely looking twigs and shortly we pursuing his bloody trade. On our reach- were relaxing in the warm security of ing this modest establishment, the door our sacks whilst the elements raged was opened revealing before our aston- impotently outside. ished eyes a young beauty of admirably muoled proportion and cheerful disposi- By morning the weather had calmed tion. A rose blooming in this harsh somewhat, and with patches of blue wilderness who was soon plying us with visible between the scudding clouds we steaming coffee and delicious homemade strode confidently off the little spit bread before a roaring fire. At dusk back to the trail only to discover, with her husband returned, five dripping car- some dismay, it was lying under six cases swinging from his horse, well con- feet of flood water. We had therefore tent with his day's work. Soi we re- no alternative but to sit for twenty four tired to the doubhtful comfort of a hours virtually marooned, observing tent as the first drops of rain began with no little concern the leisurely reto fall from leaden skies. ceding waters, whilst above the clouds again assembling ominously in a dark- That night was a wakeful hell as the ening sky. Early next day the lake had mosquitoes swarmed over our huddled retreated sufficiently, despite a renewed forms. It was with relief that we fin- downpour, for us to regain the track ally moved off under a sky of darkly and so escape from an embarrassing lowering clouds, like elephants bellies, predicament. The remainder of that towards the hills looming menacingly damp journey out was, despite a sevenbefore us. But now the weather broke hour wait before the Olivine, which we were compelled to swim, completed in us once more to Queenstown. three days. The last ten miles of road On reflection I feel the Hollyford being a punishing affair, shambling has much to commend it in the scale stiffly upon torn and bruised feet along and depth of its natural beauty, from the rock hard surface. its glaciated mountains to its sylvan On Thursday, January 9, we climbed glades. However, these undoubted attriinto the welcome luxury of a N.Z.R. butes must be measured against the coach, which, after a whirlwind tour blight of that pestilant fly, the scourge around Te Anau and Lumsden, brought and master of those fair valleys. Away down south in Martin's Bay Lived a miner old and grey. And in his hut so warm and dry, There lived with him a big sandfly. BILL HARGREAVES.