Further than Erewhon (Christmas trip)

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FURTHER THAN EREWHON Stirring though the title might sound, this hut moved so much in the wind it's just another Christmas trip, so read that night that one unfortunate was deposited on the floor when his bunk on. collapsed. A terrible thrutch crossing To cut a long story short, I be- the Lawrence cost us an ice axe and came ensnared in one of Max Smart's a day was lost looking for it. We bivied gunges across the Main Divide. Along that night almost in sight of the Herwith Derek Skingle (of New Guinea mitage hut. A client rode by looking fame) we arrived at the Erewhon Home- splendid in off white safari outfit, rifle stead where we were assailed by some slung over his back and followed by his scruffy Tongle and Meats who glee- lady and a guide. They were later to fully tumbled into our wheeled trans- be seen shooting at chamois from the and disappearing in a cloud of valley floor. Broadsword Creek caused gUst left us to our overloaded mules. a bit of bother, especially when I found my camera was on the wrong bank. A We made a good start by taking the stop for a brew in a wee two man bivy wrong route out of the homestead yard, turned into a night and as I laid what's an hour in fourteen days, any- there listening to the rain I wondered way. Staggering the Clyde in easy how Bill Cronin's party of four managstages, we made UR to the remains of ed to fit in there. McRaes hut at the junction of the Lawrence and there we spent the first night. Max dug us a snow cave in three On up the Lawrence in miserable rain, hours (with two brew stops), on Butler calling it a day at the Hermitage hut, Saddle. We all entered and reclined on our snow benches, drank more tea There is a two man bivy (N.Z.F.S.) and listened to the wind and the dread- up the North Mathias opposite Canyon ed West Coast weather it brought. We Creek and from there to Unknown Col spent two nights and a day up there took us a jolly long time and I fear just lazing and photoing. Then Max is further than the map would have led us a merry dance over Meins Nob you believe. Down into Unknown to the Lyall hut. The mixture of scrub Stream to frolic with the inquisitive and boulders just above the hut are deer on the flats and to stay at a large not to be recommended. Being lazy N.Z.F.S. hut that looked as though some toads we had another rest day, sunning one had been keeping chickens in it. and wandering about and taking more photographs, ever seen a bloke in the The dawn came too soon again and nude stalking a grasshopper, with a the strugghe into wet socks and boots. camera in hand. A casual stumble fetched us to Urqu- A NOTE HERE, during the climb hart's hut and after brewing we once to Butler Saddle I got very cold and more took to the road, yes, the road, during a quick spell I removed built way back in the good old days. boots and socks, pulled on a pair mX We were to follow the remains of this dry socks, then polythene bag apiece, right through and down the Arahura. followed by another pair of socks, fol- As we reached the reaches of lowed by the boots. This the Wilberforce we see the zigconrer. practice I zag of the trail as it climbs the bluff performed on all the snow work and to Browning Pass. The route never again suffered cold feet. I read lies to the left but unless original are somewhere the New Zealanders used the used to rock with you idea in the Antarctic. climbing a heavy pack and live dangerously it is better Dodging the icebergs we crossed the to go straight up. In drizling rain Park- Rakaia at the Lyall terminal lake and Morpath hut came into view. Situated after a forced detour up over the lower at the junction of Cronin Stream and ice and morain, we were able to wander the Wilberforce, this cheerful, well kept down to the hut on Cattle Creek. hut gladdened our hearts and later our stomaches. That night a study of the Three weary bodies dragged them- map had us reckoning on being out in selves out in the morning to what turn- two, we made it in three. ed out to be a pleasant thrutch up Cattle Creek and a steep climb to a It seemed funny to have to climb saddle or col into Jerusalem Creek. a bluff to find a pass but we did and Brew followed brew, then in the fading we found a lake also. As usual from light we slipped down into the head- high places grand views are to be had waters of Jerusalem to bivy among the in all directions but you'd better not boulders and lullabied by keas we drift- linger for there is a tidy trot before the ed into an uneasy sleep. Dawn found next shelter. Down into the Arahura us still there naturally, but now in the we went and in good West Coast daylight we were able to survey, our weather (rain) we plugged on, past the surroundings. It seemed very, isolated trail that leads to the Styx River and up there in the headwaters but very from the darkening murk into an old beautiful and enchanting. At nine we iron hut with two inch wire mesh were looking for a way down a water bunks that creaked and groaned the fall and discouraged by the look of the whole night through. ahead we struggled into the bush. POTRE was very hot and dry sideling so A Government shooter joined us at after a brew we descended into the dark after nearly plugging Max who creek to give it another go and to our was timber gitten, thinking he was a joy were soon down and out onto the deer. Over a brew he told us that "Noflats of the Mathias and over to More body, nobody goes down the Arahura", Rain hut in the gathering gloom. Here so we sipped our tea and thought a we spent a very uncomfortable night; bit. "How long would it take him?" it's a good job we had plenty of tea We multiplied by two and added six for we were able to brew the night hours and the following morning set away. off with thoughts of hot baths and gorgeous dollies clouding our minds. On then, up the North Mathias and At smoko we were able to photograph by now were becoming a little adjusted a kea. He came in out of the blue, to our mode of travel, except for Derek's shared our brew and Derek's Aussie sleeping boots, his feet looked as if they bag cover and went as he had come. were clad in sheets of licorice. Swirling away the last of the brew we hopefully set off again along the brewed plenty of tea. We made it the graded bench track which follows the next day though, but once in Hokitika left bank and is still in good condition there was talk of reprovisioning. in places. Alas, it has fallen into disrepair and after absailing into a wash- Had I been single I thought wistout of which there are quite a few, we fully. paused for a brew and wondered what I grinned ruefully at the stewardess made men do this sort of thing, cut as I handed her one of those brown roads in the middle of nowhere. We paper bags which had to be used on decided we were walking in rivers of the glide and lurched out riches, we were later to learn (ignorant into approach the Wellington in, wind. Wait till next Poms) that this river, Arahura, was a main source of greenstone. That night year. was not spent in a motor camp but in Note.-It is interesting to note that another forestry hut, "long live the For- we slept better when we bivouaced then estry". Our supplies were down by now when we used the huts. for we'd been out sixteen days, so we flogged a bit of rice and sugar, and KARL.