Angelus

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ANGELUS at a fast limp My subconscious mind roused me at the 1 a.m. intruder, and this theory was some ungodly hour on Sunday morning strengthened by a sudden moaning just from a slightly disturbed sleep in Bush- ahead of us. We both stopped and disline hut on the Robert ridge. Nelson covered that the wind produced this Lakes National Park. I say disturbed, reund by forcing itself through large as I was woken at 1 a.m. by the sound diameter snow poles. So much for of boots stamping in a complete circle "spooks". about the hut, the door easing open and a torch briefly illuminating Allen Higgins The first streaks of colour appeared prostrate form which occupied the floor in the eastern sky just as we reached the space in front of the door. The torch- top of the ski-tow. We decided that with bearer evidently decided that room was luck we should reach Flagtop at sun-up. wanting for he departed for parts un- The snow was in perfect crampon condiknown. Strangely enough, no one else tion. beine smooth and hard, and was heard or saw this person, and they truly a delight to walk upon. We perinsisted that I was dreaming. iodically turned to see how the sun was doing. and each time were surprised at I slunk out of my warm pit and its non-appearance. When we reached stumbled my way through a maze of Flagtop the snow had taken on a faint packs in the direction of the kitchen. red glow, adding a deepening warmth Allen had already made it, and was to the coming day. preparing a heat scurce for our preorganised breakfast. It was not until we reached Julius Peak that we saw the fiery red of pre- This having been completed, we fast- dawn colour isolate and highlight the ened our crampons on at the hut and summit of Mount Angelus. headed off towards Angelus by torchlight. We decided at this stage to sidle on the western side of the range and in We were evidently travelling at speed, so doing avoid wasting time on the for on two occasions I observed sparks rather craggy-looking ridge ahead. from Allen's feet. This was due no doubt Although more direct, this route meant to the lack of snow and the abundance a lengthy walk on 45 deg. slopes, causing of frost-packed scree. One of the sparks the uphill ankle considerable discomfort. appeared to streak right across our path We were relieved to reach the divide causing Allen to turn and enquire as to between the third and fourth basins, for "its" source. for it was brighter than the this meant a change of slope and our torchlight. I muttered something about right ankles were now on the uphill the place being haunted, remembering side.

ROBERT RIDGE [photo Allen Higgins] It was during the sidle of this fantastic jubilantly informed me that I would not basin that we saw the rim of the sun break through, although by this time I swell up over distant peaks plunging was more than halfway across. them into a hazy silhouette and us into The old Angelus hut is sadly domina world of gold. ated by a new hut of larger proportions. We ran about like kids for a while It was towards this latter hut that we and Allen attempted to secure the headed. Two shooters greeted us at the moments on film, unfortunately only door and offered us a welcome billy of black and white. The ridge narrowed into hot water for a brew. They were also small aretes in places, adding further in the process of packing up and heading to our already overwhelming joy. out to the Travers river. Apparently they The transition from the fourth basin had cut steps up to the hut, using one to the fifth was via a steep of 200 of their rifles and were concerned about feet or so. Allen elected to Trorio point the even icier conditions which they were down this, but as I wore 10 pointers, I about to return in. faced out, feeling more secure, and We wished them luck on their trip and merely bending my knees in the ap- asked them not to fall until we were out proved manner. I could perhaps mention of sight, as we had no wish to extricate at this stage that neither Allen nor them from the depths of Hukere stream. myself had an ice-axe and we carried We left the hut and walked onto the no rope. These two items seemed of glass-like surface of the larger lake. I little consequence at the time. vowed to bring ice-skates the next winter A short climb brought us to the top season that I returned to this fantastic of a minor spur, from which Angelus natural rink. Soon we were across and Lakes and hut were visible to us. The once again sidling steep slopes around lakes were an inspiring sight being com- to the foot of Angelus itself. (When we pletely iced over. We climbed down and recrossed some of these slopes kicking headed across the smaller lake towards steps in the softer snow, I could not the hut. At this stage Allen bent his work out how we had managed to walk front claws while attempting to ascertain around without falling off.) We soon the rigidity of the iced lake surface. He found ourselves looking straight up the north-west face of Angelus, our elected knees and in this ungainly manner, gradroute. ually lost altitude. About this stage I would have dearly liked an ice-axe to A prominent rib runs from the head- steady myself upon, but having none, waters of Hukere stream onto this face. Iconsoled myself with the thought that We made good time up, the side of this if I got out of this alive, I would have a rib and eventually found ourselves look- gcod story to write for the magazine. ing up a face covered in sastrugi ice which we attacked with vigour. Allen Having gained a point just above Sunused his front points here, while I dis- set saddle, we headed down easier slopes torted my ankles enough to obtain 10- adjacent to the face and eventually onto point traction with my lower foot and that unending sidling again. The hut was four-point traction with the supper. I gained once more just 31 hours after looked somewhat enviously at Allen's leaving Bushline. A fast climb you might boot soles above and slightly to one say. Of course, having no rope, we side of me and then down at my own didn't waste time putting in belays, and twisted boots and was mildly shocked having no axes we didn't need to bother at the several thousand foot drop visible abcut cutting steps. between my legs. I mentally told myself what would happen if I slipped and Incidentally, this episode is not to be took a firmer (if that's possible). grip used as a guide to safe climbing and of the downward sloping sastrugi in my deserves all the criticism it is likely to gloved hand. get. It just happens to be one of the more foolish things that one does for Allen asked how I was finding it, and entertainment every now and then. I lied with as much conviction as possible that everything was fine. The trip back to Relax hut was more or less a repeat of the trip in, only quite About three-quarters of the way up amusing if you happened to be behind. the face, Allen suddenly put cn a tremen- The amusement arcse out of a profound dous burst of speed which I was hard limp associated with a heave of the pushed to match. It turned out that he downhill shoulder at each step. I am glad was having slight twinges of cramp and it proved amusing to watch, for it was speed was a remedy. very painful to do, and it proved impos- The grade was becoming alarmingly sible to walk without it. steep now, and I called up to Allen to We reached Relax hut at 1 p.m. and sidle off. We need not have bothered as beat the others back to the car, both we quite suddenly found ourselves at of us staggering under a great pile of the top. We walked along to another skis, poles and other assorted junk. It bump which appeared to be higher than was very gcod to relax. It was interesting the first, shook hands, ate a gingernut, to note that all those who slept in the took a photo, had a nature call, and sun on Sunday, also flaked in the kombi began the descent to Sunset saddle. This on the drive back to Picton. was just as hair-raising to me as the climb up, for we faced out and bent our RALPH JORGENSEN.