Rainbow at Queen's Birthday

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Rainbow at Queen's Birthday Tim Breuer Not a great way to herald a long the tents up and after a brew, headed weekend, pouring rain, mild panic up the valley to have a closer look awaiting an overdue taxi, forecasts at what we were letting ourselves in of South-East gales, but arriving for. Steve, Martin, Dave G and Paul in time to catch the ferry clutchwere to climb Kehu Peaks SE flank, ing promises of clearing weather straight up a frozen waterfall up in the South. into a snow basin near the top while Dave w, Anthony, Pru and myself The city push calmed as seats went up a gut right at the top of were found but the lull soon passed the valley, on the SW flank. as the ferry headed out into a strong South-easterly. The first glimpse of this distinctively shaped peak, all gray and Some Railways pies were rapidly shrouded, was not inviting. At recycled. Others swore by the least it had stopped snowing. alcoholic antidote to motion sickness and took refuge in the We raced the fading light back to bar, only to be later reminded of camp which was nicely sheltered in other unfortunate side-effects. comparison to other spots further up. Then off to bed with a good All sorts of tramping/climbing types feed and a star or two showing. abounded club trips to the Richmond range, ours, to the Rainbow Valley. Our 5a.m. start came at 6a.m. but Plenty of time to catch up with with a quick brew and breakfast we the gossip. were off into a reasonable sort of a day, still strong SE's but large Was a bit cool around the knees as expanses of blue with cloud hanging minibuses were sorted out at around the higher peaks. Picton, then off for a drowzy trip to St. Arnaud, drunken for some. Soon after reaching the point of the day before our group changed Any rash optimism about the weather plans and decided to head up a large was checked by high winds howling scree slope on the eastern side. through the trees. No waiting We stopped and watched the wind and around for breakfast we set off clouds streaming around Kehu. Pru, driving up the Rainbow river which who was still recovering from a is east and parallel to the skiing accident, decided to stay St Arnaud range. for a look around the valley. As the snow-covered valley sides Plodding up, we had time to watch closed in becoming more rugged and the others grind up the same slope desolate, the weather grew more weighed down with gear necessary dismal.Then, to ensure pessimism for more technical climbing. was the rage, as we stepped out into a cutting wind it began to We soon reached snow and ice which snow. Continuing to become heavier was dicey for me in tramping boots, through the day. no hard edges to kick into the icy surface, but with crampons soon We sidled up the true left in an motored to catch the other two. effort to avoid the dreaded wet feet Turning to look south we had great only to be introduced to the prickly views of sun golden Mt. McKay directly nasty thickets of Matagouri, give across the valley, with glimpses of me leatherwood any day. Mt. Franklin to its right. Stopped for lunch where the river Stopping, just short of the of emerged from a picturesque gorge ridge we were climbing onto, top just amongst, by now, distinctly Xmas long enough for a bite and a breather. card type scenery. Up here it was colder and windier. At the top of the slope we were Soon after the party of twenty split, confronted by a heap of large snow one party up Begley creek on the true and ice covered boulders heading up. left, another up Paske creek on the Pausing to put on overtrous and mits, other side, while our eight went then scrambling up, sidling around straight up the valley, plunging to the northern side of the peak, across the Begley with many a second over into the Begley valley. thought. Here the slopes were more open and Nearly two hours later found us in exposed leaving no room for error, a clump of trees, an ideal camping initial negative thoughts were spot. We soon had a fire going and shunted aside, by more imperative ones don't look down, don't do up. Hoping we would avoid getting anything hasty, be certain and bluffed, we clawed our way over sure as you move. scree and rotten rock covered with an inch or so of ice. This tended Dave led the way with Tony and myself to break up after a few points and following tentatively at first but picks cut into it. Only one st teep growing more confident. Edging across section gave us real difficulty ice guts on points and picks, gradbefore reaching the wider main gut. ually moving higher into the mist, From there we trudged around the then on to an open slope, Tony leading base of the peak out into the valley, us straight up onto the crest of the down for a late lunch where the ridge which had us on the summit a stream emerged from the snow. Here few minutes later. we could see the others beginning their trek down where they joined us Not much of a view but the feeling of for the trek back to camp. reaching there made it worth while. Time for a photo and a nibble. Steve and Martin had made it up to the snow basin, but as the others hadn't got that far, they had to go Getting up is one thing, down back down to retrieve their protection another, with problems of its own. Heading west towards the main ridge gear. of the St. Arnaud range, gingerly That evening was magnificently clear, lowering ourselves down ice covered a full moon highlighted a grand view boulders, until reaching an open slope of snow-covered peaks and the air was The clouds parted long enough for us so clear and crisp it was like breakto realise something was wrong. ing glass to shatter the silence. The ridge above us to the left So cool, the condensation in the tent shouldn't have been there and a turned to ice. quick look at the map and a glimpse more of our surroundings told us we had overshot into the The weather was beautifully clear Travers valley. as we reluctantly headed out, to be joined by the other parties The top of the ridge we should have trickling out of the side valleys, been on looked quite a climb away yet happy with the promises with a couple of routes to choose fulfilled. from. However it was the eyes playing tricks, what looked half a mile To top it off, we arrived back in away was only a few hundred metres. Wellington to low clouds and showers and to learn of the foul Arriving at this lofty vantage point weather that had caused a fatality we looked down to see Steve and in the Tararuas. Martin in the snow-basin below. Dave Wills, Anthony Holland, Carefully picking our way along the Steve Raynes, Dave Gilroy, boulder strewn ridge we selected an Paul Greenwood, Martin Thrupp, ice gut which appeared to run into Tim Brewer, Pru and others. the main gut we had intended coming Why it was so I cannot tell. I know that once a glacier moved through this valley and with patient small actions confirmed the larger landscape.