Arthur's Pass - Ten on Track

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Ten on Warren Track by Thorburn We fly to Christchurch on Boxing Day - The east branch of the Poulter is beautiful Michael Hollis leading, Malcolm and Sue and should not be missed when tramping Charles, Andrew Chisholm, Sam Raphael, in the area. In its middle section the Wayne Clarke, Mark Ogilvie, Peter Jackson, McArthur Gorge offers some minor challenges Alistair Booth and Warren Thorburn. and while presenting no great difficulties on the sunny day that we traverse, it would Madly taxiing around Christchurch streets, be otherwise during full flood. We round a search ensues for supplies of primus fuel a bend in the river and the gorge ends abruptly before we entrain for Arthur's Pass. The with an impressive view through its ramparts journey passes pleasantly across Canterbury's of the broad valley and river flats beyond. sunny plains and more spectacularly as the train climbs from Springfield up through Ground nesting birdlife is in abundance on the gorges cutting between the Torlesse the flats as our party continues up-river and Puketeraki Ranges. toward Bull Creek Hut and camp at the confluence of the Cox River and Bull Creek. We share the company of two hunters staying in the hut nearby. An appetising meal is eaten as the formation of ominous hogsbacks overhead brings to an end another glorious day. Morning confirms our fears as we head off A word to the guard and the train stops up the Cox River with a southerly wind "on request" beside the Waimakariri River change behind our backs and accompanied at Mt White Bridge. Our mid trip food dump by lowering temperatures and rain signals. is cunningly concealed in bush at the Hawdon River road end. The first of many Tararua biscuit, cheese and dried fruit lunches is consumed under a shady tree on the Waimakariri flats. Following a welcome ride in the Auckland Tramping Club's truck, we disembark at the Andrews Shelter and it's on with the packs and away. The scorching heat of the afternoon sun takes its toll as, with full Christmas packs, we grind slowly up the 560 metre climb to the Binser Saddle. A hot of South Island sandflies share our first campsite near the Pete Stream Hut; Upper Cox Hut provides primitive comfort our "tyro" members savour the introduction. but with room only for two. We settle for a tent and fly camp on the only site available, Next day we trudge up a vehicle track beside crowded in at odd angles amongst beech the Poulter River. Alastair elects to test trees on a small flat terrace beside the the chilly waters at the confluence with river. Sleeping arrangements have now the east branch of the Poulter River and become established - the flippant foursome we all follow uneventfully. of Sam, Wayne, Andrew and Mark banished to their own tent, bemoaning its inadequate Canada geese frequent the east branch of size. The others of us split three each to the Poulter. A gosling left behind by a panicky a tent in comparative comfort and relative mother disgraces itself when approached sanity. by our inquisitive party. A new day dawns. The trampers don't. Snow Michael involuntarily experiments with lies on the tops towering opposite us. The some underwater photography during one river beside tumbles past in flood. The of the many criss-crossings of the river bush drips between showers and the air and we're one camera down for the trip. freezes. Someone bravely emerges to prepare Pete's making up for it though - climbing breakfast in the dull light and a unanimous trees to get a bird's eye view shot of our resolution confines us to our sleeping bags luncheon. for the rest of the day.

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S Tarn Cox Saddle Peter Jackson Although the following day begins only weather for the rest of the trip. Wayne marginally better, we set off up the upper attempts to even up the tent sleeping arrange- Cox Valley, now much narrower and climbing ments during one of our crossing of the steeply, on a little used trail well above Thompson Stream but succeeds only in cooling the river gorge below. Top Cox Bivvy is his enthusiasm. reached following lunch in the bed of a side stream. The trail and gorge below it appears Penny Stream is reached and where it enters to have ended here and we take to the river, a gorge, a short distance from the confluence the weather overcast and cold. with Thompson Stream, we are brought to an abrupt halt by a towering waterfall. Easy boulder-hopping travel proves short-lived Following picture-taking all around, we as the party is tempted unwittingly into correct our navigation and climb onto a the lower end of the McElroy Gorge. The steep spur on the true right of the stream. river here has cut down deep in the country. Lo and behold, it has a well defined track!! The bottom of the resulting gorge has been formed into a series of smooth bowls, each Keas greet us where the track ends at the one lower than the next as the river descends, scrub line, our campsite for the night. Some the water spilling from one to the other members of the party, new to the timeas a cascade. honoured rituals of Christmas trip tramping, take to exposing and washing their bodies We retreat defeated and climb out via a all over at this early stage of the trip. They steep gully into the beech forest above. give the lead to more experienced members, Camp is set up in cold and showery weather who should know better. The unwashed when the bush edge is reached. The head state of one lone tramper does not, unfortunof the tussock-covered Cox Valley is spread ately, discourage the raiding keas whose out before us with the McElroy Gorge, now state of good health is only maintained by plainly visible, incising its centre. the protection and encouragement given by one, Sue. The National Park is finally entered shortly after breakfast next day when we reach Cox Saddle on the Poulter Range, following a climb through tussock and scrub. Our view stretches south to Castle Hill, the Poulter River and around to peaks on the Main Divide. A delightful boulder-hop, for some, down Cherrywood Creek follows. High sidling and then a gorge take over At Penny Pass early next morning, more before the party spills out onto a widened views unfold. The travel up has been easy creek bed choked with gravel. Front-runners and fast on firm ground. The route down Warren and Alastair spy a deer downstream the other side to Minchin Stream is over and downwind, sauntering off into the bush. steep snowgrass - tiring and requiring concen- The weather has turned fine since the Saddle tration. A blue duck makes its appearance and we are to experience sunny, scorching in the stream and paddles off ahead of us.

Just as we make the decision to leave the spur and sidle into the head of Trudge Stream, a tramping party appears on the scree slopes far below, heading down the way we have Further downstream the Minchin cascades come. After much long-distance shouting over a waterfall into a gorge similar to we ascertain they are 'Hutt Valleys' and the McElroy. We are forced to sidle high following a useful exchange of route on the valley side to cross the head of a information we continue on to Trudge Col. side-stream, also gorged. Minchin Pass From here the route down into the head is now close by so we drop packs and pay of the Hawdon River is far from a visit before setting off for lunch at Minchin straightforward. We sidle left along the Bivvy. Downstream from the Bivvy the base of the towering cliffs of Ragged Peak. track sidles high on a rock face above the The steep scree slopes which we traverse stream plunging into a canyon 250 metres are almost devoid of scree and shoot off below. Warren leads some intrepid rockbelow us to terminate at the top of more hopping camera enthusiasts off the track cliffs and gullies, plunging near vertically and down the face for a better view into into the Hawdon Valley below. Not a place the canyon. All are suitably impressed. to be in bad weather. - At Minchin Lake, formed by an old landslide blocking the stream, Michael strips off and plunges in. The water temperature discourages anyone else from following. A gently graded track, wending its way through the beech forested landslide debris, leads us down the valley to the junction with the Upper Poulter Valley. Tired and hot, we rest awhile before trudging up the wide, stony bed of the Poulter River to Traversing further we pick up a solitary set up camp near Worsley Biv. cairn. We find what appears to be the one and only route off the col, a short climb down onto the top of a 400 metre high scree slope giving easy access directly to the river below. Those new to scree slopes are somewhat mesmerised by the size of this one and by the thought of 'riding' it. Following some diffident balancing acts and shouted instructions from above, they eventually begin to enjoy the experience. Camp is set up on a bush flat beside the Hawdon River at its confluence with Twin Fall Stream. Next day, with empty packs, some of us stroll down valley to collect Dog tired leader Peter Jackson our food dump. We return to camp where the pleasant surrounds, hot weather and Trudge Col at 1550 metres beckons next the tired, blistered bodies of some of the morning. An early start and an 800 metre party call for a further day's rest. climb does not appeal to the frazzled foursome. They are persuaded to arise by Our next tramping day is a long, hot one the unpleasant feeling of a dew covered through country of varying topography. A tent collapsing about them. bush track gives quick access up Twin Fall Stream and around the tarn at its head from We attack the steep, bush covered face where it crosses the Main Divide in low behind our camp. No track now but an scrub at Walker Pass. Travelling down the unrelenting, zigzag scramble upwards. The east branch of the Otehake River and up sweat pours from us. At the bushline the a well cairned and tracked sidestream filled sun adds to our discomfort and the face with spring avalanche debris brings us to becomes a spur. It continues up at the same Tarn Col, overlooking the Otehake west angle, to meet the major spur forming the branch. true left side of Trudge Stream Valley, and the angle at last eases off. The views all The view from the col is spectacular. The around are superb. We climb on upwards, peaks of the Main Divide and Aicken Range heading for where the spur meets the Main form the side of the Otehake Valley opposite. Divide at a peak named Mt Hunt. Alas, Two hundred metres below us the valley the spur becomes a rock climb, not favouring floor - some 1000 metres wide - has been heavy packs. choked with thousands of tonnes of rock released from nearby Falling Mountain, ar result of the 1929 Arthur's Pass earthquake. Fiordland We are now well within the Otehake Wilderness Area. The climb down from the col is steep and the heat reflecting off the coarse, sharp landslide rock is dehydrating. The river cutting down through the debris ROUTEBURN RAMBLE TO GREENSTONE has created unusual landforms and navigation GRAUNCH is somewhat uncertain. Further downriver the debris finally ends and we reach the About half past nine we left the hut and shade of the bush. We curse the roller coaster followed the track around the mountainside route that the track follows, cut through almost at bush level. Every now again we had before being given Wilderness status and glimpses down the Hollyford Valley or now in poor condition as a result of the alternatively across the valley to the no-maintenance policy. The area's status causes us to query, however, the presence snow-capped Darran Range. An hour out from of a generous sized hut, and discs on the Howden we reached the Earland Falls and trees strangely placed for up-valley travel agreed with the guide book that they were well only. worth a visit. Then suddenly we came to a clearing from where we had uninterrupted Progress is further slowed when Sam attempts to clear a fallen tree with his knee and his views. What a magnificent sight it was in the knee proves not up to it. 'Doctor' Michael brilliant summer sunshine. You can imagine our cleans the wound and Sam limps on. A feelings as we lay back in the snow grass in separated party, resulting in much 'to-ing' the sun. Remember too that this was only a and 'fro-ing' does not lend speed either, day trip from Howden Hut and we were not but we finally reach an ideal campsite near burdened by heavy Three hours out the Otehake River hot springs. The sulphurous packs. smell fails to discourage Peter and Alastair from Howden we made Lake McKenzie a from 'taking the waters'. perfect jewel sparkling in the midday sun - in a glorious setting of native bush and snow-capped peaks. We brewed up and had lunch on a delightful little beach and after relaxing in the sun for some time we made our way a bit further round the lake to get an uninterrupted view of Emily Pass leading over to the Routeburn. This would be a good trip for a future visit to this area. We had a dip in the lake more for the sake of having We complete the 'evil' Otehake sidle track next morning. In marked contrast, the next wash than anything else and as was only to section of track, which takes us away from be expected it was extremely cold. The old, the Otehake, is flat and traverses around old, story - it is not the swim it is the after the southern shore of Lake Kaurapataka effect! through magnificent stands of podocarp forest alive with bellbirds, tuis and pigeons. On the return trip to Lake Howden we By day's end we have temporarily revisited made much better time probably because there civilisation in the form of the Taramakauwere not so many stops for photos and by Otira River flats and set up a sandfly infested camp where the Deception River flows out. 6.20 we were back at Howden. This was The sandfly menace is briefly relieved by virtually the end of our trip as on the morrow plunging swims in the swiftly flowing river. we were off down the Greenstone on the way back to Wakatipu and eventually to civilisation Our last three days are spent travelling again. up the Deception during which time we lose Wayne with a damaged knee, flown September 1953 out courtesy of the RNZAF - exploring the Main Divide peaks around Goat Pass, and finally exiting via a 600 metre climb out over Temple Col to Arthur's Pass township. The return trip home is anti-climactic after the fine weather and magnificent country we have experienced and the friendly companionship enjoyed by all.

Tongariro