Kepler Capers

This text was read by OCR from a scanned newsletter and has not been proofread yet, so expect odd characters and mistakes.

KEPLER CAPERS Murray Worsop This was no ordinary Christmas trip. There were only three of us for a start; Kate Thomas, Edward Poot (almost a member until he winged his way south with the airforce) and myself. It took place in two parts, separated by New Years Eve. The first part involved the Milford Track, the second the Kepler. This story is about the latter,

The most spectacular, not to mention the easiest way to begin this track is the cross Lake Te Anau to Brod Bay on the Manuska, an 11 metre ketch. The yacht is designed for ocean voyages but first it must pay for its construction through voyages of a freshwater kind. Rowed ashore at Brod Bay, it is then a brief walk to the track as it enters the bush, thus saving approximately an hours walk around the lake from the carpark at the Te Anau control gates. The beach was enticing and on a sunnier day it would require a strong will to even contemplate the 1000m climb to Mt Luxmore Hut. However, the signs said 3.5 to 4.5 hours to the hut, we took only 2.5 hours at a very leisurely paee. Maybe it was the sight of Kate's bright pink shorts with lime polka dots that spurred Edward and I on! The real reason I would have to confess, is the excellent quality of the track; countless ‘switchbacks’ removed any sense of steepness and there were few impediments to wheelchairs, not to mention mountain bikes.

It was a most pleasant change from the Tararuas; not having to watch your feet you were free to admire the beauty of the bush. The limestone bluffs at 750m were spectacular, the weather was improving anda stunning panoramic view of Lakes Te Anau and Manapouri, awaited us when we emerged from the bush. It was then but a brief stroll across open tussock country to Mt Luxmore Hut for the first night.

It was getting a little late by this time but we did not really expect the crowds that awaited us. The hut holds 40 people, but already it was full. The warden greeted us with spare mattresses. More arrived after us, a total of about 60 in the end. All those without bunks eventually found some space to sleep either on the floor of the spacious dining room or in the drying room. The virtues of this rather salubrious hut included magnificent views of the South Fiord of Lake Te Anau and the special takahe area, as you cooked tea; gas lights and flush loos. For Edward, the highlight was the very high percentage of young women, this took a while for him to absorb while standing in the middle of the dining room, gazing. Strong winds were forecast for the next day on the alpine section of the track. We left early before they strengthened. The views through the swirling mist were spectacular. Dressed in almost full storm gear, we marvelled at the hardiness (or should I say stupidity) of the takahe. We also realised the importance of having the correct gear even on a touristy track like this. We passed on the short detour to the summit of Mt Luxmore, but welcomed the first of the two emergency shelters. These are very basic but they provide shelter for eating your chocolate and moro bars. The track is an impressive feat of construction; again of wheelchair quality, it carves its way along the side of mountains and there is very little steep climbing. The highlight of the day for me was spotting a relatively rare rock wren at the side of the track.

The vegetation comprises snow tussock grasses and low growing alpine plants such as dracophyllum, mountain daisies and buttercups. Although sorry to lose the magnificent views, the bush edge was a welcome sight. The descent to the valley floor and Iris Burn Hut, is via a series of tedious zig zags. These were relatively easy on the knees but seemed to take forever. Iris Burns Hut is another 40 bunker, a replica of one of the huts on the Milford Track. It was not as crowded as Mt Luxmore Hut not everyone braved the winds and the cold of the alpine section. The next day it rained. And it rained, in true Fiordland style. The vegetation was very similar to beech forest in the Tararuas, and a little monotonous until you reach Lake Manapouri. The Department of Conservation ran out of funding on this section of the track and this showed; we struck mud for the first time. Moturau Hut is located in an idyllic spot overlooking Lake Manapouri, our view, however, was obscured by the steady rain. We therefore lunched and made a quick dash for our pick-up vehicle at the Rainbow Reach carpark. The track is strongly recommended if you are heading anywhere near Fiordland National Park. But be prepared for rain.