Two Arrowsmith Climbs

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TWO ARROWSMITH CLIMBS For many years I have admired that route used last year which had before been up. the hairy range of mountains the Arrow- Reischek Stream falls joining a narsmiths. One mountain in particular has the Rakaia, the steeply through low this had fascinated me since my first visit to the row gorge. With stream after the Rakaia mountains ten years ago. This it been would barely have negotiable, been out of the deluge was Red Peak, whose bold outline and I had considered this question. steep: ribs of red rock promised fine Fortunately sibility before the and from I read H. W. Cormack's actrip APTA climbing. worked out a route count of the first ascent in 1933 and photographs the had the Rakaia my mouth watered. " The way led across ridge separating where it down a series of practically vertical widens and upper above Reischek the Valley, This route we cracks, all of the most magnificent rock. and gorge. laborious, it was Holds were found readily enough but used though late in the afternoon in their absence we by wedg- straightforward we established and our in the cracks. Fereed hour was late had camp twenty jour we cared not. Neither of us ever minutes below the terminal face of the expects to rock as much as we glacier. As the weather continued for to imdid that Dusnoyn The second ascent was prove we sorted our gear an attempt made in 1952 and there had only been on Red the next day. 3.30 a few climbs since. The alarm woke us at a.m. and after a gruesome breakfast of porridge My first close look at Red occurred and bacon it was a relief to be on the rather inconsequentially at Easter, 1967 move at 5.00 a.m. The Reischek Galcier when, thwarted the flooded Rakaia is remarkably free of moraines and gives River from Fatrnt other objectives, good travelling once above the terminal four of us-Peter Atkinson, Mac Rid- face and allowed us plenty of time to ing, Ivan McDonald, and myself- examine Red, whose bulk forms the nosied up the Reischek Stream and were southern wall of the glacier. Not knowsurprised at the size of the glacier and ing how the previous climbs had been ferocity of the surrounding made, we had the pleasure of choosing namely Red, North (both about adoty ft.) our own route. A direct face climb, we and the Spired (about 8200 ft.). Lack of reasoned, would avoid traversing the time frustrated an attempt on North. much-pinnacled summit ridge. It loked During the following year I often intimidating and I hoped the rock would thought of this neglected of moun- be of better quality than the usual tains, but other areas raRMO my at- Arrowsmith material. tention. In February this year the lure Half-way up, the glacier descends became irresistible and I set about find- steeply in an icefall. Last year this had ing a companion. This presented prob- given some trouble but the heavy snowlems as the usual cobbers had either falls of last November had filled some taken their holidays or had other com- of the holes and we had no difficulty mitments. Others hadn't heard of the getting up. Another 500 feet of cram- Reischek and weren't interested. At last poning and we arrived at the bottom of I got John Watson in front of my slide the face. The rock, on closer acquainprojector and a convert was easily made. tance, turned out to be, as hoped, of Our holiday was limited to seven that comforting Malte Brun type sanddays, leaving three for climbing, one stone and on a short rope we were able of which I hoped might be fine. With five to move together. The more difficult Rakaia trips to look back on, I knew pitches required belaying and allowed not to expect greater miracles. me to get my breath back. Although Of the journey up the valley in the easier than expected the spectacular teeth of a nor'wester the less said the nature of the cliffs around us gave the better. For three weeks previously the climb that necessary element of uncerfarmers had been praying for rain. On tainty. Gradually the neighbouring peaks the second day of our trip their prayers dropped below and at 9.20 a.m. we were answered and it came down in poked our heads over the summit ridge. bucketfulls. As the trip into the Reis- Ten feet away was a cairn. We were check basin needed reasonably good there. weather, this meant one climbing day Tucked amongst the rocks was a tin less. During the morning of the third containing some soggy records of earlier day the weather started to improve and climbs and also an ancient kitchen fork, by midday we were packed and off. The left by Cormack and Wilson thirty-five years ago. John, for posterity, added a rocks at 7.30 a.m. I felt cheerful. The luggage label with our names. He also ridge was as expected, long, loose and produçed a Union Jack for patriotic festooned with innumerable pinnacles. summit photographs. I was also expecting it to be tedious, A cool breeze discouraged a lengthy as such climbs often are, but strangely, stay and at 10.00 a.m. we left. The same I found it enjoyable in a repulsive sort route was used for the descent and at of way. Perhaps it was the occasional two in the afternoon we were back at pitch of good rock or the constant camp: What bliss to plunge battered curiosity to see what was beyond the feet into icy water! Both John and I next pinnacle. After two and a quarter are enthusiastic tea-swillers and that hours of careful work a final twenty feet afternoon we must have downed quarts. of frm rock made a pleasant finish to Amongst various topics of conversation the climb. The top was more comfortwas North Peak, our next objective. An able than Red's and an hour was spent apparently unclimbed pillar of rock of- chatting, gazing and dropping the odd fered a challenging direct route to the stone down the sheer Laurence face. summit. Unfortunately closer inspection We descended in the same cautious from Red that morning had shown that manner and were back at camp by midthe rock on this was loaded with teeter- afternoon. ing masses of rubble. As a party of two Our time was now up and next mornwe could not afford mishaps in so re- ing in deteriorating weather we left for mote an area so we chose a longer but lower levels. Banfield Hut, at the mouth safer approach along the ridge from of the Jagged Stream, was reached that Reischek Col. The weather was still un- afternoon and the trip out to Lake believably fine and we turned in early Heron and civilisation was completed in anticipation of another early start. the following day. Breakfast next morning was not a So ended one of those rare trips when happy meal. The climb up the glacier everything goes according to plan. Perwas more stimulating, however, and by fect. the time we reached the foot of the -Bill Drake