Christmas in the Cook District

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CHRISTMAS IN THE COOK DISTRICT This was spent in two parts, firstly The final climb was Spence (7804 ft). with Dallas Proat of Dunedin and Once again we climbed Scissors but secondly with Tony Parlane of Auck- this time we headed south from it along land. ridge in a mode that was reminiscent While waiting for Dallas to arrive, of descending the transmitter side of a day trip was made up Sebastopol, the pinnacle at Titahi Bay hands on over Arnette, and then down Black the face side of the ridge, feet flat on Birch Stream. Due to bluffs and rot- the slabs. This was typical of the ridge ten rock the descent down the latter from Scissors to the foot of Spence extook over three hours. cept for three semi-gendarmes. The Once Dallas arrived, we took off up slabs were of a blue-grey slate type of the Tasman Glacier to De la Beche material that was extremely smooth. Hut. This was the first of six tiring, At the foot of Spence I thought to myperspiring slogs up and down glaciers self that if Dallas wanted to toss it in that left us dehydrated for days after- I would agree. As we started up from wards. On our only day's climbing the col he said "We'll see how it's from here we left the hut at 2a.m. going in an hour's time and perhaps and were on the lowest peak of De la turn back." An hour later we were only Beche by 7a.m. There we turned back, 500 feet from the top, and at 11.30 a.m. because of a crook stomach, and a leg, we were on top, just 4V2 hours after that had still not come quite after leaving the hut. being broken in five places CAiO ski- It was a magnificent viewpoint. Iming, being affected by steep crampon- mediately to the south we looked to ing. The retreat was by way of the the sheer faces of Hopkins and Black Rudolf Glacier, and it was decided to Tower, rising thousands of feet out of cut back up to the ridge we had the Landsborough, which we could ascended that morning. Two hours look down into, over more of the slate after leaving the Rudolf and after some like slabs which lead down into the lousy rock-climbing we came to a large Pearce (a tributary of the Landsglacier between us and the main ridge, borough). Further to west were passes so it was back down to the Rudolf and leading to the Karangarua and other so back to De la Beche. Long climbs West Coast rivers. As usual, Mt. were obviously out, so we went back Hooker stood out magnificently. Northdown the Tasman and up the Mueller wards were Cook and the snow-covered to Three Johns Hut. peaks surrounding the Tasman Glacier. This hut is superbly situated, and To the east Mt. Darby rose above you are climbing not long after leav- everything else in that direction, and ing. Also, there are a great number of at our feet was the Dobson Valley, peaks within close range, varying in leading up to Barron Saddle and the difficulty and length of time. We were Three Johns Hut. Had I seen this view impressed with it. In particular it re- of the route from the Dobson to Barminded Dallas of the Continent, where ron Saddle before last Christmas I am he had spent five months climbing and quite sure we would have come out touristing. that way instead of retreating back We had three full days climbing down the Hopkins. there. On the first, Montgomery was One thing puzzled me. Why was the climbed, via Scissors, and the return mountain there? By rights, such a big made by Fyfes Col and the head of heap of rubbish should long ago have the Mueller Glacier. This was a pleasant collapsed. The ledges which we had rock-climb, and although it was not zig-zagged up were covered in schisty known at the time, the ridge between rubble. Every hand-hold had to be testthe two peaks was to give us a good ed, and it seemed as though each one lead-in to our final climb. The time might be the chock-stone which held from hut to hut was five hours. Unfor- the mountain up. While we had been tunately we had no view because of in the area there had been many rockmist and it was the same next day falls from the Mueller peaks and one when Darby was knocked off. This would expect the same off Spence. Yet was a delightful rock-scramble which when you looked down past your feet, we didn't bother to rope up on. Time there were no signs of rubbish in the from hut back to hut: 4 hours 20 Dobson. Amazing. As far as I know it minutes. is still standing.

This was our last climb here, and about 90ft of which was from icefor eight of the nine hours we had screws. There was a party of four been away from the hut, I am sure our ahead of us and the shelves they had knees had been at right-angles, and it cut in the ice made welcome belaytook several days to recover from that points. The murk had been flowing lo tof "Main Divide knees". around us for about the last two hours Back in the fleshpots of Unwin, I and on reaching the summit ridge there was mutual agreement on turning back. spent a day swimming and sun-bathing Then the other at Blue Lakes, and in the evening dined brief clearing. A party appeared conference in a at Glencoe Inn. the decision was quick reversed. Onwards and The following day Tony Parlane and and upwards. A section of steep cram- I set off for Malte Brun Hut. That night and we were on top. But we two climbers from the hut the no time to stop and were pasing spent quickly night out and in company with two on our way back. We had a twentyothers we set out at 2a.m. with the minute lunch stop in a schrund just beobject of giving them a hand if neces- fore the steep ice. On this bit Tony sary, and if not required, going on to was five feet above me front-clawing Malte Brun Peak. We met the other down when one foot slipped. Would two just on daybreak and Tony and I my piton hold? Fortunately he held carried on. However, it was raining, himself on his other claw and ice-pick. blowing and cold and on gaining the Back on top of Walker the mist West Ridge we turned back. cleared and we had our second rest. Two days later we again left at The descent from Walker kept us alert 2a.m., this time for Elie de Beaumont as the snow had softened and there (10,200 ft). That enormous glacier = was a hard layer underneath. A few the Tasman seemed to take ages to slides and several knee-deep slots later cross. It was here that we found that the Tasman was reached. It was now both of us had left our watches behind. 7 or 81 p.m. and the clag rolled in. On Malte we both had had watches, Visibility was about 20 yards. After a and this time each had relied on the brief debate it was decided to follow other to take his. the others footsteps back up to Tasman Saddle Hut rather than go back over a An hour and a half was lost when we featureless, trackless area to Malte took an awkward route from the Tas- Brun Hut. man on to the start of Walker. By now The rests became more and more a party of eight from Tasman Saddle frequent. The slots to be circumvented were ahead of us and good use was seemed endless. Several times made of their tracks. We met them as thought he saw the hut but it was Tony they were coming off Walker. a slot. As time dragged on I became only "How are you, Ian?" said a voice certain I was about to spend my that could only belong to Roger Foley. second night out in the Cook district. Then Tony saw a "hut", and the hut "Who is it?" said a second. it was. We were royally received by "Ian MacGregor." Roger, John and the other occupants. "What are you doing here?" said the It was 101 p.m. and we had been out for amazed second. 20 hours. It was John Shorland, and could he They scratched up a meal for us and we slept. have asked a sillier question. On the next and last day we went News was swapped. down the Tasman via Malte Brun to Then it was onwards and upwards. our gear and off to Ball Hut. The was a beeline for Glencoe Wet of Walker reached a Inn mado top and and then once again slow careful descent of the far side sleep. made to the foot of the leading Thus ended Christmas, 1969-70. up to Elie. From now on the sumndro mit ridge it was a case of fixed belays, IAN MACGREGOR