Bloody Westland Again

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Bloody Westland Again Paul Richardson we were. Trevor found the gut eventually They say that Westland weather is usually - pure chance I reckon as our arrow had very good in February, but it wasn't so melted away. Visibility was good on the this year. Eight days of continuously Scott Glacier and we soon reached camp. bad weather in the Whataroa - Butler After a celebration brew we packed up and Godley region convinced us of that. The descended Scott Creek until darkness three of us - Malcolm Fisher, Tony Gazley forced a halt. Travel in Scott Creek is and myself were keen to have another try easy but there are few good campsites. further south in April. However for one reason or another neither Tony nor Malcolm Heavy overnight rain brought the creek up could make it and only Trevor Bissell and and made things a bit damp by morning, but I were starters for the April trip. blue sky in the west gave promise of a fine day to come. After a late start and Unfortunate troubles with cancelled lunch at Welcome Flat hut we returned to ferries and a sick van cost us three days Architect Creek, picked up more food, - good days at that too, or so everyone then bush-crashed up into the hanging said. We did salvage a couple of hours valley flats. It took us over three hours from that third day though - just enough of laborious effort and the fact that I to get us up to Architect Creek, a large had done the trip before didn't make it tributary of the Copland River. any easier. It was a pain, and the misty drizzle didn't help matters. The next day in gloriously fine warm weather we climbed Scott Creek to a camp A dull cold morning resulted in another site below the glacier at approximately late start at 9 a.m. as we tramped across 1700 metres. By evening the sky was grassy flats towards the upper valley. positively menacing, but a fine cold morn- We took to the boulders on the left bank ing miraculously dawned and we departed which gave easier travel than the true at 7 a.m. for Sefton. The route via right bank I remembered previously. It Welcome Pass was not immediately obvious was a steep climb to Whale Saddle, howso we climbed directly up the Scott ever the superb panorama of high peaks Glacier to a narrow gut which gave access was a wonderful reward. Not so good to the Douglas neve. Perfect crampon though were the giant hogsbacks over Cook conditions made for easy travelling but a and Tasman and the steely grey sky. Steep few premature probes into some slots grass and a dry creek gave us an easy delayed us awhile before we found a good descent to the Cook River where we pitched route through all the monstrous crevasses the tent and fly securely. It wasn't up onto the west ridge. I had run out long before the gentle patter of rain was of steam by this stage and Trevor motored heard. The pattern is always the same, ahead in fine style. a soft almost soothing rain, then slowly Reaching the summit was a real anti-climax getting heavier with a rising wind. We as it wasn't like the summit I imagined spent two days and three nights here it to be. A strong cold wind meant a before giving away the idea of climbing very brief stay and as the view wasn't up La Perouse and heading out down the valley. to much we dropped down a few hundred After about nine hours we stood on the feet for lunch and photographs. Mist, Cook River bridge after following the lurking in the valleys all morning, was track out. It's a good track I think. gradually creeping up the neve and with a sense of urgency we raced back to Wel- The depressingly dull wet weather concome Pass by which time the mist had tinued another few days by which time we smothered us. Our exit gut was just west were camped somewhere up the Mahitahi of Scott Peak and since we had left a Valley. The bash up the Mahitahi on the large direction arrow at the drop off south bank was horrible and my enthusiasm point we didn't anticipate any problems. sank to an all time low. I wanted to go Alas, after an hour we didn't know where home - desperately. Trevor didn't seem to get so upset which made me feel even gear until we crawled into our pits and worse. It wasn't just the persistent rain warmed up. that depressed me so much, but what really grieved me was the decrepit condition of We endured a cold partially sleepless the forest. It was simply junk pongas, night (fibrefill bags are useless at times) supplejack, bushlawyer, pepperwood and had an early breakfast and waited for the ferns. The place seemed overrun by dawn, when we left for a climb of Strachan. deer and the resulting dead forest and In fact we didn't leave until 8 a.m. smothering by unpalatable species was decked out to kill. All unnecessary such a contrast to the richly varied Cook really as the day turned out to be fine, River flora. mild and windless. We soon started peel- The following morning the rain finally ing off the layers of clothing and enjoystopped the sixth day. The long awaited ing ourselves at last. southerly change brought cold temperatures with fresh snow on the peaks, clearing Strachan was a straightforward climb skies and a bitter wind. After a morning although powder snow which balled our in the pit we packed up and tramped to crampons slowed us a lot. Higher up conthe Edison River, a swollen uncrossable ditions were perfect and I had loads of torrent. We made ourselves a Boy Scoutpoke left for the climb to the impresstype cairn at the water's edge then ively rocky summit. It was a marvellous pitched the fly at the confluence and day and from our grand viewpoint the enjoyed the only fire of the trip. Cooking wintry mountain landscape was truly magfrom the pit was standard practice = not nificent. Regretfully it wasn't long bad with my new toy stove. before clouds were forming in the Westland valleys and we both wanted to go home Next morning we braved the icy water and again. Our upward steps were a great crossed the Edison and Mahitahi. Travel help on the descent and we soon reached up the true right was still painfully our tent in time for lunch and a spot of slow and despite the cloudless sky a sunbathing. Later in the afternoon we strong cold southerly breeze swept down packed up and moved down to a camp in the the shadow-filled valley. We reached bush below Uaroa Creek. Mueller Pass in the mid-afternoon, took one look into the Zora and quickly gave The next day was basically fine and by that idea away. Down steep snow, ice and keeping well away from the river we frozen scree to a sunless camp in the Zora smashed all our upward times like nine basin - yuk! Despite the deep blue sky pins and reached the road end just after the sun's rays were powerless against the dark - tired but happy. intensely cold wind and we wore full storm