Wandering in Nepal

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Wandering in Nepal Brian Hunt The parting words in January 1977 when hired for a few rupees a day, and eating the Jefferies familyleft New Zealand were at restaurants where the food was con- "see you in Nepal". When Mike Edginton sidered "safe", occupied six days before followed them 12 months later, the same we were able to fly into the airstrip at farewell. Lukla, six hours walk down valley from Namche Bazar. With this background and with interest heightened by the numerous letters laud- The journey from the airstrip to Namche ing the scenery and experiences to be had was one that will be long remembered, as in the far off "Mountain Kingdom" my the combination of a badly sprained ankle thoughts in mid 1978 centered on the received soon after leaving Lukla, an offer of accommodation with the Jefferies approaching attack of the severe stomach family in the Sherpa trading village of upset Jardia, and the 900 metre climb Namche Bazar to do some tramping and from the valley resulted in a rather transalpine trips in the surrounding shattered and slow moving Kiwi arriving regions. on the doorstep of the Jefferies house on A visit by New Zealand Foreign Affairs the hill above the village, well after officers was planned for early November dark. Nevertheless the warmth of the welcome from the rest of the and and as this meant that Bruce would be in a few brews of Sherpa tea family soon Kathmandu at that time, I arranged to revived flagging style and talk hame arrive on November 8th. With one stoplasted several hours spirits before time. of over allowed on the flight I took the pit opportunity to visit Brian Devon and As the main trading village of the Khumbu family in Sydney for two days that region on the route to the Everest resulted in a day trip to the Blue Mouncamp, and with spectacular base tains National Park and a brief look at peaks reaching the Sydney suburbs. up to 6800 metres on all sides, the location was all that visitors with an interest in the outdoors could wish for. The leg to New Delhi started well with With a perfect morning, the first view impressive views of the Australian outof the summit of Everest poking above back from 9000 metres and the islands of the Nuptse/Lhotse ridge at the head of the the Indonesian group before brief landvalley, and the peaks of the ings at Singapore and Bangkok. The hotel valleys and peaks from the surrounding bed in New Delhi was welcome after the the house vantage point commanded, were impressive and long flight from Sydney and the taxi ride rewarding following the previous through the seamy outer suburbs in the long, slow climb. night's early morning hours. A tour of some of the sights the following morning in the company of an Indian student proved most The next few days were spent catching up interesting and filled in the time until on letter writing and being shown the the planned 2 p.m. take off for Kathmandu. local points of interest by guides Nevan Alas, this was to be thwarted by a timeand Kerry. The first trip away was a table change that resulted in another week trip up the Dudh Kosi valley with night in New Delhi wandering the bazaars Mike and involved a recce into the triband exploring the central part of this tary draining Ama Dablam and the crossing strange city. of Kongma La, a rock pass at 5500 metres with a glacial lake nestling just below. The track up the main valley is excellent The following day I flew over the vast and is used by yak trains carrying sup- Indian Continent, it's expanse dotted plies and firewood to the higher with villages. hundreds of villages. The views One frequently had to step aside and let of the main Himalayan Range as we the yak pass, the sound of the bells approached the Nepal border were a disaround their necks providing a musical tinct contrast to the countryside seen backdrop to the incredible views that in the preceding four days and heightened unfolded. the urge to don boots and pack and start walking. Our first night spent camped at the world famous Tangboche Monastery, set on a prom- Meeting Bruce, Margaret and Mike at inent ridge commanding views both up and Kathmandu Airport was the next highlight down the valley and the sunset on Everest, and the drive from the airport through was our last one on the main valley route. the fascinating city of Kathmandu with The week will be long remembered for the its population of 200,000 people gave an warm clear days, the freezing nights, insight into the new experiences I was the frustration of being unable to move to enjoy during the next eight weeks. at a normal pace at the higher altitudes, The city is a mixture of modern and centhe blue sky backdrop to beautiful turies old buildings, set in a large flat jelly fish shaped" clouds, the panorama valley surrounded by small outlying from Kongma La of Himalayan giants and villages and fields with terraced hilltheir glaciers and icefalls, the friendly sides rising above. Exploring the smiles of the Sherpa people and their temples, stupas and bazaars on pushbikes traditional greeting "Nameste".

Thyangboche Monastery The Jefferies house just above Namche Bazar

After a few days "back home" and several After travelling through the juniper scrub day trips to fill in time, Bruce, Mike, belt we entered the lush rhododendron Nima (a smiling veteran Sherpa of many forests which provided a distinct conexpeditions) and I set off for a trip trast to the barren slopes at a similar into the adjacent region of the Hinku altitude in the Everest region. A bush and Honku. We farewelled the Jefferies camp for a change and a roaring fire for family at Tangboche and from the summer our last night before the climb over to grazing grounds in the lower Mingbo valley Lukla via another 5000 metres pass. The we gained the moraine of the Mingbo contrast in the way people choose to Glacier and camped a few hours below the enjoy this region was illustrated by a icefall. group we met from a major American trekking company the following that was Travel day through the icefall to the neve enjoying a morning coffee, set out in below the steep snow slope to Mingbo La mugs on a tray complete with cloth, while presented no problems and after lunch we the numerous porters packed the tents began the final ascent. A fixed rope and gear into their wicker baskets for per courtesy of Bruce, and the use of the day's walk ascenders made the climb safe and satisfying. The four of us were on the The enjoyable trip wind-up that night in 5800 metre pass by 5 p.m. Our shadows the 'Sherpa Hotel" at Lukla was in true were projected by the setting sun onto Kiwi style and the following day we headed the snowfield at the head of the Hinku back to Namche via the main valley route. with the frozen moraine lake below and A week-long down valley trip to Pharflu the view of Makalu in the distance. Our was the next excursion, this time with camp on the snow below the pass was to Margaret, Linda, Nevan, Kerry and one of be a high camp both in altitude and the the local villagers, Passang, whose family memories it created. Mike stayed with during his 12 month visit. We took the main down valley track below The following day we passed numerous mor- Lukla and once again enjoyed a contrast aine lakes and small glaciers and after of scenery. After a morning traversing a some of the normal frustrations of morsection of track through the deep gorge aine travel, we enjoyed easier going on we came to easier ground among large the grass terraces alongside the Hinku bamboo and sugar cane plants with occariver. Compared to the large number of sional groups of monkeys on the track. trekkers and climbing expeditions visiting the valleys leading to the Everest Our "Motel" for the night was the upbase camp, this region was virtually stairs room of an old Nepalese house set unused and is the type of area that offers among the terraced fields of this fertile a lot of potential for visitors to Nepal region with our rice and vegetable dinner who want to see some of the alpine cooked over an open fire in the local regions away from the main routes. It manner by the next door family. Travel was also in this isolated region that I to Pharflu Village the following day was thought of the many club friends at home pleasant as we passed through easier who would have been as impressed as I country where apple trees grew and the was with the scenery and all that this track wandered through fir forest. The country had to offer. local Sherpa Hospital which is staffed by a New Zealand doctor provided welcome Our two days travel down this isolated accommodation for the night and gave us valley was fascinating for the insight it the opportunity to inspect the complex provided into the use the local people which is administered by the New Zealand made of the land and the opportunity to based Himalayan Trust. compare the vegetation with that of the area leading to the Everest base camp A visit to the nearby administrative where heavy usage over the years has village of Sallery for the weekly market resulted in major changes and despoilathe following morning allowed us to stock tion of the original fir and rhododendron up with a basket of fresh meat, vegetables forests. The adjacent Hinku Valley via and fruit, and arrange for a porter to the 5500 metres Mera La was our next travel back to Namche with us to carry target and another long upward haul for the extra load. The accommodation in the non acclimatised visitor. Once again Tashinga Monastery that night was another panoramic views of massive peaks both new experience. Our three day trip home near and far before the descent to camp via a higher level track gave great views for the night in the upper Honku. and the chance to visit a number of small villages where numerous brews of sherpa During the summer months the grasslands tea and glasses of the local brew of rice in the valley heads are grazed by yaks, beer "chang" were consumed. driven over high passes from the more populated valleys, and in these upper The village of Thame, three hours walk up valleys the summer villages or "yessars" the valley and the home of Lakpa (who is of stone walled huts which house the presently studying at Lincoln), provided animals' attendants are found. Stone an interesting overnight trip to fill in walls protect the fields around these the days before Christmas plus the chance huts where the local potatoes, "rigis", to visit the local Monastery set into its and other summer crops are grown. cliff face site above the village.

The night spent with Lakpa's family in from the Kathmandu Valley to the Chitwan their typical Sherpa home was an experi- National Park near the Indian border ence I will never forget with the animals before they left for a holiday in Thaiin the lower level and the living quarters land and I flew home. on the level above, open fire cooking on a stone hearth with the smoke filtering The scenery on the Terai, the spectacular out through the roof timbers. With sunsets, the contrast of the villages in Christmas only a few days away and a this region with those in the mountains, planned dinner for the resident Kiwis, the noise of a rhino feeding in the bush the children were busy decorating the 50 metres from the porch I was sleeping house and tree and looking forward to the on (or trying to), riding elephants big day. Turkey and pork flown in from during a rhino hunt, the backdrop of the Kathmandu and a range of drinks from Annapurna Range behind the township of Budweiser Beer to German Wine set the Pohkara, the incredible Raj Path road that seal for a mid-day dinner enjoyed with drops 2400 metres from the Kat thmandu the view of Everest and the other Hima- Valley to the Indian plains, are among layan giants surrounding us. the memories I will hold of this last week in Nepal. As with all good things After my six week stay, flying back to the end must come and I left Kathmandu Kathmandu from Songboche (the small air- Airport for home via New Delhi, Singastrip above Namche) in the Pilatus Porter pore and Sydney. My eight weeks away and viewing from the air some of the could only be described as fantastic. country we had tramped over, I could not The trips done, the sights seen, and the help but think of returning some day to experiences enjoyed will never be forvisit more of the countless beauty spots gotten and I count myself lucky to have the region abounds in. In my final week had friends like the Jefferies and Mike the Jefferies family and I drove down who made it all possible. Ominous clouds above Kongma La