Time imparts the Troyte at last

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Time imparts the Troyte at last Malcolm Fisher Early in the afternoon of 27 December gruel slopped in our bowls but on the six blokes assembled at Trevor Bissell's splendid enticement that lay just a parents place in Hokitika. Gathered couple of miles further up the valley. around the spread of Bissell hospi- For there, dominating the scene, stood tality these individuals united into our first goal, Mt McGloin, 6,800' with a team for the first time, politely its impressive ramparts tumbling towards eyeing generous slices of Christmas the valley floor. With early morning cake with what quickly proved to be sun highlighting the detail, we were uncommon restraint. Then, with Trevor's in an ideal position to survey the peak van loaded, the group set off; another and devise a plan of attack. The key party ready for the hills. lay in gaining a cirque which cut well into the mountain at the 5500' level, Paul Richardson, as organiser and from where a gut ran towards a handy leader, had mapped out an interesting snowfield. Because of cliffs below the set of objectives. These included Mt cirque it was decided to try a long McGloin, which has hardly been touched, sidle into it from the high point on the rarely visited Troyte Valley, the Karangarua track, which threaded southern tributary of the Karangarua, through bluffs in the bush as it and a high level route round to the climbed high above the Douglas Neve. The first two intentions cataract. Karangarua were of special interest to me for I had been keen to get into the neglected Jacobs-Troyte region for years. Cer- The morning was enjoyed amongst a tainly three years earlier Paul and I variety of bush and after lunch the did have a go, but bad weather and troops left the track to battle with bluffs on the south side of the Jacobs savage scrub under a hot sun. All Valley foiled our intentions. gear was carried for the exercise was expected to take a couple of days. Three clubs were represented in the One compensation was the excellent party. Trevor and Don French flew the view. Below lay Cassel Flat where the PNTMC flag and I, with billy hooks and angry Douglas River tumbled from an a thirst for tea, did my best to live impassable gorge to overwhelm Karangaup to the ATC emblem (depicting billy rua's blue water with its dingy glacial over campfire). But it was a Tongue torrent. We could also see to the and Meat trip and that was the club very head of the Karangarua where a that dominated with Tony Gazley, Dave gentle slope rose to Karangarua Saddle, Wills, and Paul symbolising the T&M falsely suggesting a quick way to spirit as I perceive it (vigour with the Landsborough. carefree responsibility, if that doesn't sound too contradictory!). Unfortunately by 5 p.m, after a hard effort, the attack quickly appeared to be hopeless. The long sidle through The journey south along the West Coast scrub and bluff no longer looked feashighway was done in brilliant weather, ible and a climb onto the rocky walls with many sections of tarseal melting above drew a blank. Without a cloud in the unbelievable warmth. The con- McGloin glowed red and white as it tingent stopped at Fox to check with a witnessed the demise of the assault helicopter pilot about the whereabouts party, repulsed before even reaching of the airdrop and destination. base. The retreat was also a scramble, Karangarua bridge was reached at 6 p.m. but once on the track the team was Now it was time to turn away from gently guided down to Lame Duck Flat, roads and their sedentary travel, time an appropriately named camp for the to harness our energy and journey for troops that night! pleasure! Actually most of the evenings four hour tramp was hardly enjoyable, A good nights sleep and we were reit was just a hot sweaty race against freshed, ready to enter the Troyte the darkness to Cassel Flat Hut. which was a couple of miles up valley Beyond the Copland confluence the beyond Dovetail Gorge. As expected, valley closed in and it took some time the Troyte issued from a deep cleft, to locate the track which had moved beyond which stately Fettes Peak well back from the river. During the towered, causing much excitement. scouting we lost our leader who was Down valley McGloin now seemed distant fated to spend the night under the trees. but still bold under the blue sky. The true right presented a very The steep hut was not the insect-free sanct- 1000 foot vegetated face and we chose uary we were hoping for and little that in favour of the left side which, sleep came our way in the night. Paul although not as steep, had a good emerged from the bush as breakfast was scattering of bluffs. It was a hard being prepared and it was soon time to climb but the subsequent sidle was eat. But our eyes feasted not on the good going thanks to the dominance of

Fettes from the Troyte basin/Paul Richardson Mt Townsend (L) and Fettes (R) from Thompson Spur/Paul Richardson ribbonwood over less penetrable species. miles into the clouded distance. Only three hours from the confluence, Sometimes the main divide peaks east we crashed out of the last of the scrub of the Landsborough would emerge to onto the start of the Troyte's long show their superior height. And down snowgrass basin. in the Landsborough itself, audible in the windless air, erosion appeared to It was wonderful to be there at last. have decimated the clinging vegetation And time to eat and take it all in. creating a chaotic scene. It was hard Let's enjoy this haven. Feel the to leave the comfortable peak, especiinfluence of Fettes with its smooth ally since just over the edge a section walls plunging into the valley. Make of fidgety rock had to be grappled with. friends with the keas who swoop past But descend we did, happily arriving with defiant squawks. Inhale the sweet back at camp some hours later. Soon smells of mountain vegetation, reward fire heated well-deserved refreshments, for resting travellers. Receive the its active flames reflecting the high lenitive murmur of river, without spirits of our day. listening. With Fettes accomplished it was time "We're going to find the airdrop" calls to cross into the Landsborough for the Paul. Action again, and chores. next leg of our journey. Crossing the upper basin the Mt Cook lilies "Bleep bleep" went the alarm, inimical were so abundant that they formed in the pre-dawn solitude. But not a fields, a memorable sight. But beyond the Hooker Range presented an unattracword, hardly a stir, just a continuing patter of light rain. Later in the tive mixture of bluffs and gullies tent games of cards entertained most, with one snow slope running above these while Tony and I struggled with chess to a low flat part of the range. One in the porch. In the afternoon valley gully met this snow but a large bulbous exploration took place, but with blanket spur obscured the route. I favoured cloud not much was seen. working up the hidden gut but most believed the answer lay in sidling above the projecting spur. Another alarm call and again disregard. But at seven the cloud started to lift and so did our spirits. Anyway we Dave was so confident the high route went to attempt Fettes, 8050 feet. We would work he declared he would stake gained the saddle with the Jacobs with- his life on it. Thus when we reached out difficulty, thanks to two steep the top of the spur to find we were snow-choked gullies. Views were scarce separated from the snow by a 150 foot but firm snow took us up the ridge drop, the team suggested that the bluff until a buttress forced us onto a wide was a suitable place for Dave to snow slope that crossed a steep Jacobs- honour his pledge! Rather than going bound glacier. In the mist Dave back and around two ropes were joined skilfully used the sound of a clatterand, to the entertainment of keas, ing waterfall to reach the far side packs and troops were lowered. After and climb above the waterfall's face. that everything went well although After a section of rock slabs it was drizzle and lowering cloud beat us to a snow plod all the way, working the top. Snow slopes led us safely between crevasses as they came up. down from the cloud and we arrived on For this section I was pleased to be the banks of the Landsborough, just in the lead and with the now visible below the Le Blanc tributary, for a col drawing ever closer the sense of very late lunch which somehow extended adventure was quite real. into dinner. The small flat gave us a comfortable night. Now on the snowfield beyond the col we had easy access to the southern summit With murky weather continuing there was ridge which looked straightforward. little enthusiasm for a climb of However, the last sections proved un- McKerrow so we set off for Harper's comfortable. Paul ably tackled the Rock, using the standard Douglas Pass obstacles, showing the well spaced route. After a lazy lunch on the participants the way. At three, safely saddle Paul, Trevor and I climbed perched on the summit rocks, we took nearby Gladiator, but perpetual mist in views as they unfolded from slowrobbed us of a view. A return moving cloud and fortified ourselves glissade down the easy slopes was with much needed lunch. Only once or some consolation though. Harper's Rock twice did the cloud move away from the Biv, being three storeys high, was northern cliffs to reveal the Troyte the largest of a line of moraine rocks flats 5000 feet below where our camp which marked the lip of the remarkably could just be seen tucked next to flat, partly barren, Fitzgerald basin. the scrub. Here we joined the others who were lounging around hoping for sun. To the south-west Mueller Pass and Rather than dwell in the rock's dark symmetrical Mt Dechen stood out well cave we claimed a bench of tufted and the Landsborough Valley ran for grass, a very nice campsite.

Douglas Lake from Thompson Spur /Paul Richardson Cloud and some drizzle kept the troops slabs and bluffs, sO breaking an tethered next morning but an afterotherwise continuous snowfield between lunch clearance saw all but one clambus and the main neve. ering up the steep but easy slopes of Thompson Spur to check the route Paul isn't nicknamed "The Thruster" round to the Douglas Neve. The for nothing. Leaving our perch he led strollers gained the snowfield perched us over a mile of soft snow towards high above the Douglas Glacier and Mt Thompson 8648' which was then crossed this to a buttress which marked climbed without fuss. Cloud prevented the brink, an awe-inspiring perch. good views to the south but Cook, Malte Brun and so on were very clear. Way Despite the fathomless drop, Don, with below the Mueller Glacier circled Kea a good head for heights, sat comfort- Point towards the unseen Hermitage. ably on the edge and Trevor, eager to get a special photo, disappeared into a A cold clear morning augured well and limitless chimney. I took in the scene at first light the party was under way. from a less precarious position. Once the now firm snow was reached The two mile wide Douglas Neve lay crampons were fastened but the undirectly opposite, below which sheer welcome sight of a growing hogsback walls (like the one we were above) over Sefton suggested a false dawn. dropped into the Douglas Glacier. The glacial crescent that took us past The neve was attractively patterned Thompson to the base of Brunner was with crevasses, its whiteness contrast- easy but wind and gathering cloud ing with the grey-black of the cliffs. demanded that the next and difficult Ice, which by the hand of time was section be tackled without demur. now perched on the edge of the abyss, Now there was slab, snow on slab, and was sliced and quartered as if to a length of perching ice leading to a comply with a request from the cavernface above the main neve where, hopeous glacier below that it dispatch fully, there would be a snow route down. itself little but often. Every five minutes some ice would go, and with Tony and I were unwilling to use the the roar of thunder shatter into powder intended route and he and I looked on the cliffs. Sefton stood proud and unsuccessfully for an alternative way. aloof in the corner, but its nearer It had been pre-arranged that we would diminutive neighbour, Mt Brunner, go back if necessary and now, with presented intimidating slopes of bare rising wind and gathering cloud, there was no time to dally; Tony and I were I already knew what the Douglas neve forced to retreat and go out down the was like in a white-out and we didn't Douglas. We apprehensively descended wish to get caught again, and we don't Thompson Spur towards the lurid lake like swimming glacial lakes either! which filled the valley below the snout of the Douglas Glacier, knowing that The route around to the Douglas neve a swim in the freezing milky water was involved a short climb up rock slabs inevitable. to gain the Main Divide. The wind was much stronger now and I was really In the jumbled moraine we unintentionalarmed at the rapid cloud buildup in ally separated, Tony going one side the Douglas Valley. I'm not sure what and I the other. I tried to wade happened to Tony and Malcolm at this across a short gap to a peninsula of stage but I threw the rope to Don and moraine but the current was swift. we belayed for several pitches above Meanwhile Tony swam a short distance the ice-cliff and then down and around but had to return absolutely frozen. a snow slope. Dave and Trevor followed After a frustrating period in the on another rope but I wasn't concerned moraine's maze we finally reunited and with them as the only priority was to clambered back to Harper's Rock for get around and check the route out as the night, really exhausted. fast as possible. A few more pitches took us around to and above a crevassed The only way now was to go over Gladiator snow shute which gave access to the so for the second time I was up there flat neve slopes. Whoopee! But there in the cloud. Near Howitt a brief clear- was no time to loose. "Get your arse ance showed a way down so we took it into gear!" I screamed at Dave and at once. We entered an interesting Trevor whilst they seemed immobile region of mounds and rifts before and still on the crevassed slope. They lurching down a steep scrub spur tosoon joined us on the neve and once wards the Douglas River. We searched out of harm's way we had a spell and fruitlessly for a crossing place from waited for Malcolm and Tony. They the lake outlet down, and after a hard never came, so we set out on a long bash above a bluff ended up opposite plod in slushy snow to Welcome Pass. Horace Walker Hut where another ford was tried. But the rain swollen river We unroped here and waited another half was too strong. hour for Malcolm and Tony, but there was no sign of them. The storm was In the morning the river had lost its holding off and we enjoyed our lunch force and we made a waist deep crossing. and brew while sitting on comfortable A high level route to Conical Saddle rocks above the Tekano Glacier. No in the improving weather was just what problems in Scott Creek. A massive we wanted, an enjoyable way to end the avalanche had flattened everything trip. Towards nightfall it was all right down to the Copland River. It over and we were back in the low country, took 62 hours from Harper's Rock to back once again for a night of captivity Welcome Pass and another 3 to the under the buzzing wings of the little Copland River. black ladies of Cassel Flat. But such discomforts are of no consequence to This really was the end of the trip. the overall enjoyment of a trip such as Three Japanese climbers died in the this. It was a wonderful experience storm that night, and we all got wet and I felt elated that at last I got in the tent. Next day we wandered up into an area that had been calling for to Douglas Rock Hut and trudged back years. Thank you team for a great in the rain. trip. A night at Welcome Flat and a soak in the hot pools whilst waterfalls leapt Footnote by Paul: off the Sierra Range and rain teemed down as it does so admirably well on I have never seen such evil looking the West Coast filled in more time. clouds as those white horses pouring over Sefton's mighty summit that The last day was fine as we headed out morning. It was going to be a race to the Karangarua Bridge. It was between the approaching storm and our another fast trip with Dave snapping pathetic little group. Trevor and at my heels all the way.