Hollis Hut Hike

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Hollis Hut Hike Jim Robinson Eight somewhat apprehensive Tongue Another hour upriver and we'd and Meats' gathered at the airport reached the beckoning shelter on Boxing Day. Primary points of of Reischek Hut. Popular consensus concern that everybody felt were: was to head straight for our pits, "Will I be able to hack it for two but our more farsighted trip leader weeks?" and "Will the weather be realised the danger of having as foul as it was at the end of the river becoming too big to last year's trip?" However convercross. Thus we were all stuck sation was kept cheerful, with just out in the freezing wind and rain a hint of the buoyant competitivefor another half hour, watching ness that is forever prevalent forlornly as he and Matteo amongst trampers. ("My pack's 2kg attempted to battle their way lighter than yours.") across. After a couple of unsuccessful attempts, Michael's The long drive across the verdict was announced. We would Canterbury plains and into the head stay at Reischek for lunch, and of the Rakaia Valley passed unhave another go later. eventfully, although the fine views made everyone eager to begin. Whilst lunch was being scoffed Finally after traversing over an hungrily, the low-down, lazy pikers hour of unsealed road, numerous on the trip (everybody except fords, and (almost) two sheep and the leader) did their best to a cow, the combi had brought persuade Michael that the weather us to the point of no return. We really was too disgusting to go on. had a quick lunch, bid our In the end, it wasn't our pitiful chauffeur farewell, and began. moans that changed his mind. It was the hail pelting against Considering our none-too-light the roof and the snow level rapidly packs, the pace was steady. The descending towards us. terrain, being in a riverbed well a mile wide, was virtually flat, The weather remained grotty throughwith large patches of grassy riverout the afternoon, and conversation flats. However, any dreams of an frequently upturned the question: easy cruise for day one were Wouldn't the weather on Christmas washed away at about 3.30 pm, when trips be better if they were in we found a part of the river February or March? Our leader that we had to cross uncrossable. answered (correctly as it turned Our resulting sidle began with a out) that the weather could be real grovel up about 100' of near just as good in early January. vertical riverbank. Fortunately, even grovels have their good points Day three saw an early morning sun and as we travelled above the glistening on fresh snow that lay Rakaia we were treated to some to about 3000'. (Reischek + impressive views of the sheer C.2500'). With the lure of the size that the river could become. sun warming the other side of the valley, we set about crossing the Everybody was hungry after a good 5 river some way downstream. Being hours' tramping, but we still a glacial river, it was down about couldn't polish off the 8 pint 3" on the previous day. Despite billyfull of beans. The reason this, it was still very swift we'd had a bellyfull after only and agonisingly cold to shorter half of them, Michael discovered people! Wet, numb feet and prilater, was that one packet was vates were soon forgotten, however, meant for 78 servings! as we ascended up the sizeable Louper Stream toward Whitcombe Day two dawned wet and cold. Pass (4100'). Up to about 11 am it Nonetheless we were off by 8.35 am. was sunny and warm some later Nobody particularly enjoyed the regretted their negligence to hour's travel up to Washbourne Hut, put on sun cream but while we especially Sue and Anne, who were gnawing our Tararuas, the decided they needed a swim (unclag returned. Within minutes, intentional) whilst crossing large snowflakes were adding "Jagged Stream' only minutes from to the 4" or so that had fallen the Banfield Hut. Nobody wanted to previous night. stay at Washbourne, though. It was a real hole, its grotty sacking Overtrou were donned by the wimps bunks obviously used more frequentof the party (myself included), and ly by possums than humans. we set about the long descent to

Neave Hut (C.2600'). Despite the through the gorge it quieted down chilly temperature, the wind again, its beauty now enhanced was only slight, and it was a very by many Rata trees in full bloom. pleasant walk. The contrast of black, black rocks and the glistening snow really was quite We arrived at Rapid Creek around beautiful. Further down the 2 pm. Several references in the snow changed to drizzle, though log book to the non-existence of a thankfully, the real torrential track from the Hokitika that we rain held off 'till about 6 pm. were to take prompted Michael's investigation. Sure enough, he four couldn't find it, and our route Day we left Neave about 8.15am was and began a long plug down toward altered again. Brian and Anne the Whitcombe/Hokitika junction. returned about 5, tired but triumphant, with a new of John We'd planned to have about a six pair hour Bulls as Anne's new footwear. day to bring us to Frew Hut. However, the track's condition Stuart's knee hadn't SO varied from difficult to horrendous improved he and travel was very slow. Four decided to walk out the next hours into the day, and we'd morning. (Day six) The rest of us covered about one-third of the left at_8, the sandflies bidding us distance to Frews. It was about farewell. (Rapid Creek has the 'Fastest sandflies in the west!!!) this time that Anne noticed that We retracked the $43 resoling job she'd had done our steps back through Collier and A on her "bloody Falkners" wasn't Gorge up to Frews. very permanent. The soles were bit of pantry raiding was committed here. It began with lifting, and obviously weren't simply honey going to last. Stuart was also and biscuits, but some got a bit having problems, but it was his carried away when they found the knee that was troubling him. Weetbix, Milo, and God knows what else!! By 4 pm we'd reached Prices Hut and The steep climb to Frew Saddle Price Flat. The hot sun prompted up was begun after the carbo some to plunge into the icy waters loading of Cataract Creek to cool off. had finished = about 10.45 am. A Prices Hut (1300') is at least four steady pace ensured that the group miles from Frews Hut, so we now became well spread out. Although planned to stop and camp before clagged up, the temperature was reaching it. The track finally fairly mild, and Malcolm seriously began to resemble a track, which contemplated taking a swim, before was a pleasant change, and for deciding the water (of some little the final half hour or so to creek) really was a bit too icy. Vincent Creek (where we camped) it (He got as far as far as getting was flat and fast. his shirt off.) By lunchtime we'd climbed 1400' and Whilst eating tea and slapping still had another 2550' before Frew sandflies at the otherwise ex- Saddle was conquered. The higher cellent river flat campsite, plans up you get the steeper the climb for the next day were amended. gets, and the last 500' or so are Brian would accompany Anne in quite an effort. The sight of the leaving as early as possible for Frew Saddle biv was therefore very the road end beyond Rapid Creek Hut welcome, despite its size. As (400'). From there they would go quickly as possible the tents were to Hokitika as best they could, in pitched and pits occupied. Highorder to buy a new pair of boots lights of the day included a for Anne. We would rejoin them at delicious 'Edmonds - dessert, and Rapid Creek. the somewhat heated discussion on left and right wing politics and Michael and I were up at 5 am the their pros and cons, that followed. next day, in a state of semi- Fortunately, being the only person consciousness, preparing breakfast who could fit comfortably in the for everyone. After breakfast biv, I was excluded from this Anne and Brian left, and we all debate. (Heck, I could hear went back to sleep until 9 am. it though!) Day Seven, and as our New Year's An hour's easy stroll saw us at pressy, our generous trip leader Frews for an early lunch. The permitted us to lie in until afternoon's travel through Collier 8.40 am. Gorge was spectacular, with the river completely transformed from On the very summit of the saddle we the relatively peaceful flow met an Auckland Uni. party. They'd it had been near Frews. Once had troubles descending the

Hokitika River side of the saddle, The walk down to Cedar Flats which had had snow on it. Two had (1500') was long and hot, frequent slipped and been injured, one swims in the Toaroha River being quite seriously (concussion, necessary for revitalisation. suspected broken ribs, bruising, Nonetheless, Malcolm, Sue and etc). Anne still decided the day hadn't been long enough, and missed Without snow, though, the descent the footbridge across the river to the upper reaches of the to the Flats, thus arriving long Hokitika was easy enough. Fine, after the billy had begun to warm weather coupled with prolific boil. patches of Mt Cook lily and other beautiful alpine flowers (Spaniards Cedar Flats is a lovely spot, OUCH!) prompted a leisurely pace so we decided to have our rest with many photo stops on our way day there. down to Bluff Hut (3100'). Bluff Hut is justly named - after it the The morning was spent making track promptly drops 1600' in sure no extra food had to be almost no distance. Having crossed carried out. In the afternoon, the Hokitika via the Bluff Hut Michael and I scrambled up a swing-bridge, we completed the very overgrown track to the top final 1% hours' plod up the Mungo of Alan Knob (3700'). Although River to Poet Hut (2000'). To our the afternoon crud duly rolled joy a very thoughtful vege' survey in at about 3 pm, we got some team (who were absent) had left impressive views both down towards their huge tent (complete with Hokitika, and back into the mattresses, windows and a sunshade) Roaroha range. just waiting for us to use, which we did. Meanwhile, the others made use of the hot pools that run into Day eight dawned clear and calm, Wren Creek, a few minutes from and magnificent views powered the hut. us up the steep 1900' climb to Toaroha Saddle. From the top The walk out to the road end the view was such that fingers was great. The track is an old controlling camera shutters went mining and logging route, and though not in condition, it into a state of uncontrolled prime hyperactivity for most of the remains a real "trampers' highway". 45 minutes we stayed there. Added to this, our packs were Reluctantly, we dropped off the almost unbelievably light. tops and down to Top Toaroha Hut (2850') for a belated lunch. The shock of returning to civilis- A good hour was spent sunning ation was cushioned by excellent ourselves under the scorching hospitality from Bill and Jenny sun, the result being extreme Ryan when picking up our food reluctance and difficulty in drop. Not only did they have getting started again. us in for morning tea, but Bill Taharoa Saddle Michael Hollis also drove us around to the road snow, although large patches end on the Styx River, saving of rubble reached up to only us a fair road walk. Having about 100' short of the pass. heard the news of our honourable P.M. becoming a 'Sir' we were While still in avalanche range quite happy to return to the of the Cronin Glacier, a fair bush, sheltering for a while sized chunk came crashing down. longer from the world's problems. It set off frantic scrabbling - not Regrettably, Anne had to leave up the hill, but over to our us at this stage. Her thighs cameras. The threat did help had been sore for some time, us speed up to the summit though, and she felt unable to continue where amazing views justified the without undue discomfort. climb. The 4 hours it took us to reach After half an hour on the pass, we Grassy Flat Hut near the head departed down the permanently of the Styx was a real contrast snow covered slope to Harman to the morning's travel. Although Pass (4300'). The snow was of the track was good, heavy packs excellent consistency, and we promoted an unprecedented state were able to run down, without of exhaustion amongst some of sinking or slipping, for lunch us. However, we all agreed the beside Harman's beautiful tarn. effort was worthwhile as we dug into a dessert of tinned peaches The campsites beside the tarn and cream, not to mention the Xmas are excellent, and we soon had cake... the tents pitched. Not wanting to waste a great day on the tops, Packs already lighter, we shot Sue, Matteo, Michael and myself over the low Styx Saddle (2500') set off up Mt Campbell (6050'). and on to Harman Hut. (Day ten) It's basically a big pile of We reached the hut at 11.15 am, rubble, but nonetheless gives but the deteriorating weather splendid views for miles around - prompted us to persuade Michael definitely a worthwhile side that the trip over Brown Pass trip. could wait another day. After an afternoon of being stuck in the hut, we were all keen to get going again the next day, and had left the hut by 7.45am. The weather had improved a little, but it was still cold, windy and misty. Steady travelling saw us up on Browning Pass by 10.20am. Although the mist briefly hid the correct route from us, we were soon descending the steep scree slope on the Wilberforce side. At this time the weather suddenly cleared, providing spectacular views down the Wilberforce Valley. We decided to go beyond Park Morpeth Hut, and went on up Cronin Stream until about 2 pm. An extensive search found us a good campsite at about 3700'. By now the sky was blue and the prospects good for the grunt over Whitehorn Pass the next day. The crud lay thick and low as we awoke the next morning (day twelve), and succeeded in fooling some of us that the weather was going to be poor. Thankfully, Celmesia Flowers Michael Hollis at about 4000' we passed through it completely, into a glorious, hot, still day. The pass, at 5700', had a fair coating of

The weather was perfect again excellent views (yet another the next day. Beautiful reflecgreat day). With ample time tions of sun-drenched snowy peaks to spare, we decided to reach in the mirror-like tarn showed Arthurs via Mt Bealey (5980'). why this is obviously a popular Having the real climbing behind campsite. Reluctantly, we headed us, we shot along the ridge, down to the National Park's Carranticipating an effortless (well, ington Hut, which lies on the easy!) stroll to complete the junction of the Waimakariri and day. Of course it wasn't! Before White Rivers. It's such a big Mt Bealey there is a series of hut that we felt almost as if steep rocky outcrops, not unlike we'd returned to civilisation the 'Pinnacles' in the Tararuas. already - 36 bunks. Too small to appear on the contours on maps, they are plenty big From Carrington it took us one enough to make travel slow and and a half hours to get around difficult, even at the best of to Crow River, going at a fast times. Having got past them - pace. The Waimak was low, and it with much scrabbling and swearing was a pretty uneventful, monotonous we sat down to lunch just beyond trip. the summit of (quote) "the biggest heap of shit that I've ever had We enjoyed lunch and a sunbathe the misfortune to climb." It at the mouth of Crow River. did however give us the best From there it was two hours up views we'd had all day a good to Crow Hut, surrounded by the finale as we dropped off the spectacular backdrop of Crow tops for the last time. Glacier, and Lyell and Bealey peaks. All that remained was the steep descent down the well-used track As we dug into the final dinner to Arthur's Pass. But it's not of the trip, a large thunderstorm the end of the story - even as boomed ominously to the south. the final plod to the bus stop Happily, it dispersed without was completed, plans and particireaching us, and we remained pants for the 1984/85 Christmas dry. trip were being drawn up. The final day needed an early On the trip: Stuart Lusty, Anne start, and we were away by 7.10 am. Opie, Matteo Serpi, Michael Hollis A steep climb up onto Avalanche (leader), Jim Robinson, Malcolm Peak (5750') in 1 hours gave Charles, Sue Charles, Brian Charles.