Heading in the Right Direction

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Heading in the Right Direction Dave Humm Imagine driving out of Wanaka, gear Sanity restored after a night at to the eyeballs and full of expect- French Ridge we finally put on ation at the thought of an attempt our climbing boots and on the 28th on Mt Aspiring (3027 m) when the continued up French Ridge and entercar shudders to a halt and a meek ed the Bonar Glacier via the Quartervoice from the driver's seat deck. A few open schrunds at the top announces "Oopps, I think I've of the Quarterdeck required a quick forgotten my fibrepile!" Not an roping up exercise for security auspicious start to the Tongue and reasons and a chance to shake off Meats Christmas trip to Aspiring Christmas complacency. Once we were National Park. sitting on the Quarterdeck we were afforded fantastic views of Mt French, Boxing day 1984 saw Mark Neeson Popes Nose and Mt Avalanche, but the (driver), David Humm and Dale most impressive was the squat triang- Parsons heading south suffering ular face of Mt Aspiring dominating from over-indulgence (especially the whole glacier. Dale). Ian Bunckenburg, Greg Ord and Simon Leicester (VUTC) were Traversing under Mt French a few following the first wave down a snow fluff avalanches added to the day later to rendezvous on the excitement and once safely across Bonar Glacier underneath Mt Aspiring the slopes a suitable site for both on the 28th of December. tents, and later on, a snowcave was selected under a prominent rockband Struggling under heavy packs the which provided both water and first wave (including Mark and his security. Later on that afternoon cozy new Mountain Recreation fibre- Buncks, Greg and Simon materialised pile) left the Aspiring roadend and out of the clago reached Aspiring Hut in time for a quick bite and a "physiotherapy by The plan for the 29th was simple numbers" lesson before hitting the enough - dig a snow cave big enough pit. for all six of us. Eight hours later it was finished and habitable Next day (December 27) we continued with sleeping benches, cooking comup the Matukituki River via Shovel partments and storage. The only Flat, and by Pearl Flat picked up thing missing was a flush toilet! the French Ridge track which climbs a punishing 3000 ft extremely rapid- Up and away by 3.30 am on the morning lyo Reaching a tarn just under of December 30th, a row of twinkling French Ridge Hut we waited for the lights snaked their way across the remanents to catch up and were re- Bonar as all six of us set out to warded with a view of Dale having climb Mt Aspiring by the NW ridge. lost complete control and delirious With moonlight and a crisp freeze, in the hot afternoon suno Quite an walking and avoiding the numerous experience. black crevasses was made a lot easier.

a Southern aspect of Mt Aspiring A few rope pitches up the "Ramp" and secure holds heralded in the New which leads out of the Bonar saw us Year. However, once at the top, safely ensconced on the NW ridge. indicators of approaching bad weather (classic hogsback cloud over Mt A long climb to the top finally saw Aspiring) meant a swift retreat to us reach the summit about 10.30 am the snow cave to pack. A combination on a perfect cloudless dayo Magniof schrund jumping, glissading and ficent views of the Southern Alps literally falling down French Ridge and surrounding areas were breathsaw us relaxing at Pearl Flat for taking. Looking striaght down the the night watching the weather south face we could just pick out deteriorate and eating the rest of our snow cave tucked under Mt French the food. All in all a classic trip 1100 m below. After the horrors of which will be hard to forget! descending soft snow, a real trudge in the hot midday sun across the glacier had us back in the coolness of the snow cave in time for a snooze (photographs to prove it, Greg) and a chance to reflect on the day. December 31st was spent with five of the party (Buncks elected to keep the cave company) wandered out over the Bonar and climbing the straightforward Popes Nose (2600 m) Once back, the rest of the day finished with members of the Tongue and Meat Sun Club trying to get an all over tan! A quiet New Year's Eve (who forgot the Baileys!) eventuated and trying to sleep with the reflection of the sun on the peaks opposite pouring in the window (decadent snow cave!) was quite difficult. Next morning a delightful rock climb of Mt Beacon (2300 m) with good rock Sunbathing on the Bonar Glacier