Debut at Mount Cook

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Debut at Mount Cook On the Sierra Range Kirsty Woods I started 1985 with the grandest of After a hot sweaty climb, we settled intentions. Amongst other things, in and prepared ourselves for the one of my resolutions was to pack in early morning start. I wasn't too as much climbing as time, energy and sure whether I was relieved or dismoney would allow. Towards the end appointed at the sight of a hogsback of the previous year, Dale Parsons, . over Mount Sefton that night Angela Hair, Sue Lamont and myself had planned a climbing trip to Mount Cook My doubts began to disappear as we National Park. We had decided on an made our way upwards next morning. all women's trip, as we thought that lack of male company would force us to Once I got used to walking roped for rely on our own initiative and hopecrevasse travel, my anticipated fear fully increase our confidence in the of those awesome slots began to fade. mountains. It's not difficult to After about an hour or so, we met up take second place to males on trips of with two people who had started out this kind, even if no-one intends it before us. They had decided to turn to be that way. back because from the East Ridge they had seen signs of bad weather As the time for action grew nearer, I approaching from the west. We moved began to get more excited and spent on a little further but once the mist the majority of my time poring over started to roll in we also decided to maps of the park, stereo up loud, pack it in. Back at Sefton Biv, we dreaming of the great conquests to all dossed down for a snooze, only to come. The decision was made to climb wake to brilliant sunshine. Feeling the Footstool from the East, cross the somewhat disappointed, we packed up Copland Pass and climb Mount Sefton and headed on down to the Hooker from the west via Scott Creek. Valley, from where we hoped to cross the Copland Pass the next day. We arrived at Mount Cook on a perfect morning in February, feeling enthus- Getting across the Copland didn't iastic and optimistic. First step involve too many mishaps, other than was Sefton Biv, from where we hoped to a slight detour (for sight-seeing climb the Footstool on the second day. purposes, of course) and a damaged pack. The weather as always was The going was good until we got to quite changeable, one minute bright Welcome Pass. From there on we were and sunny, the next cold and clammy. faced with white-out conditions. If we'd known a bit more about local Knowing that there were plenty of weather patterns, we might not have large slots on the way down, and not turned back so quickly on the being able to see our tracks from the Footstool it had seemed better to journey up, we decided to play it safe err on the side of caution, however. and belay our way down, at least to begin with. This part of the day It was a pretty heavy going day, seemed never ending, and I often particularly with ali that gear and wished that we'd had more pleasant food. Towards the end of the aftercircumstances in which to practice noon, after walking myself into a setting up belays! It was getting semi-conscious daze, I "met" with a so late that we almost decided to rock in the middle of a stream. I bivvy out, particularly as we couldn't arrived at Douglas Rock Hut with a see our way past a large slot. To "tennis ball" on the side of my head, our relief, the mist began to lift and and a shameful desire for sympathy. after a daring snow bridge crossing by Dale, we were on our way. Well, the west had been reached and Sefton called. We took it slowly over the next few days and made our a way up Scott Creek, carefully ascending a rather horrendous waterfall and eventually making a camp at the top of the ridge. The "Big Climb" turned into an epic day, beginning with a keen 3.00 am start. From the top of the ridge, we made our way to the Tekano Glacier and We finally made our camp at 11 pm after a bit of bumbling around in the rather later than expected! By now dark, arrived at Welcome Pass. The the weather was fulfilling its promise Douglas Neve was a magnificent sight, and it began to pour. No-one got any with Mount Sefton beckoning regally sleep that night as our flimsy tent from the other side. The sun was collected pool after pool of water. starting to brighten, and we began to As soon as daylight arrived, we packed make our way through the maze of slots; up, thumbing our noses at the cheeky this is what it's all about! keas, and zoomed off down the ridge to a large bivvy rock. I think we were all thankful for the lazy day spent in this "palace", where the previous day was dissected to the minutest degree. There's no doubt that everyone was disappointed at not reaching the summit. Still, we felt that we'd done our best, taking into account our experience, the weather, timing and the distance involved. After all, the mountain would be there for ever, regardless of whatever happened to us a and it was still possible to dream on about future possibilities. Negotiating the slots wasn't too difficult and before too long we were Before moving on down towards the standing on the Sierra Range, admiring Copland Valley, we met with two other views of Mount Cook, the Copland parties on their way up. Our Valley and, to the south, Mount adventure" was discussed, while I Aspiring but alas, to the west we impressed them with "colour flashes" could again see signs of bad weather of my face which, as a result of my moving in. This time it looked more fall a few days earlier, was changing like the real thing - a layer of its shape and hue at an alarming rate. thick cloud below us and above, an We left them to it and worked our way increasingly ominous layer of wind down the ridge, descending the watercloud. Our great aspirations began fall with great relief, then walked to to fade in the reality of the Welcome Pass and a soak in the hot situation. None of us felt that we'd pools. be able to finish the climb, and get back down below the snow line before In the Fox pub next day we congratuthe weather broke. Reluctantly, we lated ourselves on a most enjoyable made the decision to turn back, ignorand inspiring trip, raising a toast to ing all those taunting voices which future expeditions. 1986 had said "Come on, don't be such wimps!" definitely got off to a good start! Kirsty Woods