Five Go South for the Hols

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Five Go South for the Hols Barbara Thompson As Barb packed up for the first time way through the afternoon Buncks on Christmas Day, she cursed the bulky discovered the jelly set full of grit. Purex toilet paper (why couldn't they Undeterred, it was melted and reset; make flat packs) and large first-aid didn't taste too bad and the Five were kit she was carrying. Seven kilos of food doesn't sound much, but trying to thankful not to lose the in the jam it into an already full Macpac swollen Nina. billy Torre severely tested her patience. SUNDAY 29 DECEMBER BOXING DAY, THURSDAY 26 DECEMBER Departed Nina Biv 8.20 in spots of They were five gathered at Wellington rain. Thirty-five minutes later Airport. Each bemoaned lack of fitreached the forks at GR 682849 (NZMS 1 ness and over indulgence in festive S46) junction of an unmarked stream. fare, and on checking in all got heavy The Five climbed steeply up from the labels on their packs. This used to forks to the bush edge reasonbe source through a of pride but now they ably open beech forest with the odd thought wryly, Air New Zealand might dracophyllum present. Saw the first no longer employ real men to load the chamois on the ridge line. After a planes. Departure was delayed due to conference and deciding the weather still looked unsettled, they headed "Buncks discovered the for the saddle at 675836, two hours' jelly set full of grit" tramping time from the river at a leisurely pace (the old boy was a bit operational requirements (did Brian knackered). Once again they debated Goodwin want the opportunity to slip a the pros and cons of the various few rocks in their packs?) Whilst in routes, finally deciding in favour of flight there were glimpses of swollen the ridge top climb over rather than rivers but they tried to ignore this. round the first obstacle. They then Nelson Motel was very comfortable sidled through a snowgrass basin below during a night of heavy rain. Mts Carrington and Quail. Lunch was taken in rain at 675822 but still FRIDAY 27 DECEMBER reasonable views were to be had across Took Newmans bus to Lewis Pass, the Doubtless River to the main divide. getting out at the Nina River con- To his chagrin, Buncks discovered that fluence with the Boyle River at 2.15pm. he had sat in a pile of kea droppings Leo Homes and Janet Dobbie were at while eating his lunch, but in his inimitable style declared it bore no Murchison and we joined them for morncomparison to treading in human muck ing tea. In spite of snail's pace in the streets of Peru. driving speed, a fellow traveller was sick just before lunch which was a little disconcerting. The two hour "Cultured books, especially walk to Nina Hut over open beech Booker Prize winners terraces and grassy flats passed very had been strictly pleasantly. The scenery was beautiful verboten - and there were occasional glimpses of tops. With the odd stop to iron wrinkles from socks, and skirt knee The route followed a prominent ridge deep bogs, Jack drew first blood after in a south-westerly direction in heavy an unscheduled solo detour. Nina Hut mist and drizzle. Reached bush edge appeared suddenly as the first spits at GR 662798 and after a short rest of rain were felt. It is a small they took a bearing and headed straight five-bunk biscuit tin type construcfor Doubtless Hut. At such a slow tion, with a good stove (after initial pace it took 3.25 hrs from the lunch smoking). spot to Doubtless Hut. This hut is in a superb location on a wide river SATURDAY 28 DECEMBER terrace. The log book reported good fishing. The hut has six bunks and Left Nina Hut at 9.15am and walked up has been well maintained. Barbara a boggy track reaching Nina Bivvy in thought the toilet was excellent. 1.5 hours. Nina Biv is set in a Buncks, the true conservationist, delightful spot. Rain set in while dangled his line but left the trout to the party read the log book for route their own devices. With sun now information, so an early lunch was had. shining and even the forecast promising The weather forecast wasn't too good, for the next two days, perhaps the bad so camp was established and quits weather would be behind them now. called for the day. Barb made the jelly and the boss set it in the Nina MONDAY 30 DECEMBER to cool. He went off to the tent to read and the rain got heavier. Part- Left Doubtless Hut just before 8am in sunshine and after 45 mins reached but the game trail kept high and event- Phantom Flat. It was hand over hand ually they came down onto open grassy work up a broad flax-covered hill for flats. Evidence of hot springs could 1.5 hrs until they broke clear of the be smelt, but they didn't bother to scrub. Buncks had taken a short cut look any further because the old boy up a slip; the others weren't so was in too much of a hurry to get to clever. Reached tops above Amuri Hope Pass. Shortly after they reached Pass via alpine meadows after 3 hrs. the confluence of Hot Springs Creek and Crossed the shoulder of the ridge into the Hope River. Travelled up the true one of the main divide basins in the right of the Hope in good time (1.5 hrs) head of Foible Stream, for lunch in to an early lunch just east of Hope the rain again. After lunch they Pass. Anne and Barb donned overtrou climbed out onto the ridge on the anxious to avoid more scratches on other side of the basin, skirted high sunburnt legs. bluffs above Foible Stream with much boulder rolling and gazing at flowers "Some woke several times and rocks, then onto yet another saddle to the sound of the at 591756 (now on map S53), and along SYMPHONY" the main divide which was covered in ZIP broken rock blocks. They stopped for pictures of two very tame keas on the The Five set off up a spur starting at highest point, then headed down to a GR 541683 and in an hour had cleared saddle at the head of Hot Springs the worst of the flax and other shrubs; Creek (GR 582754). They made a quick followed the spur onto a saddle then descent into the head of the creek to sidled to a further saddle at GR look for a decent campsite, arriving 530660. The wind was funnelling about 5.15pm. It was a windy and quite strongly up out of the Mckenzie somewhat unpleasant night here (the and it pushed them in all directions. boss disagrees with this opinion). Too cold to stop, they travelled on over the high points on the ridge Some woke several times to the sound around the head of Mckenzie Stream, of the ZIP SYMPHONY but not for the and took the leading ridge off in a reasons others might think! The south-westerly direction to the flapping of the tent portal during the Hurunui. Travel was over open tussock night caused the old boy to get up and meadows with good views of Lake Sumner down many times to see what could be and Loch Katrine. done to stop it, to no avail. In any case they all had a rather sleepless The bush edge was reached in about night, since if he couldn't sleep then 2.5hrs from the first saddle after neither would the others. lunch. Took a short break for the last of the 'chocky' ration. With a TUESDAY 31 DECEMBER rest day being promised for the Awoke to the flapping of the tents morrow, some bright spark suggested (still) and a cool wind. After a quick breaking out the rest day's "chocky' breakfast, packed up and scuttled off ration. This mutiny was ruthlessly down Hot Springs Creek. Reached the put down by the boss, with one of bush edge in an hour and then picked those glares you all know and love. up an excellent game trail on the true Still, it was worth a try, wasn't it? left. The river seemed fairly gorgey Three Canada geese started to lead the way down the spur but evidently decided the downwards path wasn't for them (perhaps they sensed the rumbly stomachs and decided to make good their escape). Headed down through open beech on a broad spur following deer sign, arriving at the Mckenzie after another 1.5hrs. The lads found a good campsite just inside the bush edge on the true right of the Mckenzie, while the lassies swatted sandflies. There were heaps more Canada geese on the Mckenzie so many that had anyone thrown a rock they would surely have had real meat. But no - Buncks was going to catch them a trout, wasn't he? WEDNESDAY 1 JANUARY Light rain was falling but it was a pleasant place for a rest day. Between Hollywood Wives, Mistrals Daughter, With Lawrence in Arabia, Need we say more? anon Airship 9 and Mandarin, the day passed pleasantly with heaps of vicarious sex track until the main river was reached. and violence. Cultured books, Thereafter it was down river on and especially Booker Prize winners, had off the track, to avoid old slips and been strictly verboten after Anne flood damage. The Taranakau is as brought Schindlers Ark on an earlier steep as the Hurunui is flat. The trip, and Buncks had thoughtlessly rivers were rising and Barb voted it dumped A Town Like Alice when he the most miserable day of the trip. finished it at Nina Biv. Buncks chatted up an Austrian tourist doing the track in street shoes and no THURSDAY 2 JANUARY waterproof parka, billies or pri imus = Raining heavier today and the forecast the Five were amazed the hills don't claim more victims than do. was not so good, but they headed off There they up the Hurunui to Harpers Pass stopping was plenty of room for all at at No 3 Hut, Camerons Hut and Harper No 4 Hut, a somewhat dilapidated place Bivvy briefly. The flats were covered but fine shelter in a storm. Jack in matagouri, rabbits and cattle. Jack chopped a power of rata and they dried tried to get Barb a "pot" rabbit but their gear in comfort. it saw his rock first and Barbara was FRIDAY 3 JANUARY relieved. In a way the rain was a blessing as it would have been unbear- Cloudy but fine for the meantime. It able in the heat and sun. (There is was 1 hour down from Locke Stream (No an excellent track above No 3 Hut 4) Hut to Townsend Creek. They saw a through attractive beech forest.) blue duck in Locke Stream but it had a Lunch was taken in the pouring rain, low opinion of photographers, and sitting on the track under a fly eluded all attempts to be made a star packed at the bottom of someone's in a slide show. The 3 hrs up pack - poor Buncks! The contrast between East and West on "peanut does not travel the main divide was very marked, and well, So 16 squares all noticed the first bush lawyer, and became 100 pieces and stinging nettle, almost immediately on 1000 crumbs" crossing the Harpers Pass. The standard of track maintenance was also Townsend Creek was mostly reasonable widely divergent, and Lands and Survey travel in spite of big boulders, heaps won a brickbat for the shabby track of deep pools and much boulder hopping. from the pass to No 4 Hut. The Anne could tell you a thing or two descent from the pass was down a steep about this place as her opinion of it was very low = the censor's pen would have a field day, so you'll be spared the written details. The waterfall in Townsend Creek was sidled on the true left by all except Buncks, who took it straight. For once the others took the easy choice. Lunch was eaten in the sun for a change, about 1 hr below the saddle. They got onto Minchin Pass about 2.30pm. Minchin Pass to Minchin Biv took about 25 mins then the rain started again. No mercy was shown when a hot brew was requested at Minchin Biv. They followed the river for a while then sidled a big gorge quite high in heavy rain. Minchin Biv to Lake Minchin took 1.5hrs. The final hour of the day was spent cruising around picturesque Lake Minchin with spectacular waterfalls off Mt Scarface, then through very pretty beech forest on an excellent track. Camp was just above flats on the bush edge at the confluence of the Minchin and Poulter. Southerly change forecast for tomorrow. SATURDAY 4 JANUARY Very comfortable night spent on mossy terrace. Heavy rain and strong winds during the night, but awoke to blue sky and more strong winds. They have had a good trip so far but the fore- "THE BOSS" -Jack McConchie cast is threatening. High winds and what the terrain promises, does not The surveyor's and map maker's parentsound like a good combination to age were questioned, as the team Barbara. Anne agrees. The others cruised up the sidle in the heat. appear secretly to be relieved (thank- They felt that an appropriate name for ful they don't have to drag two this section was the haemorrhoid sidle reluctant women over the passes). The (pain in the rear end). The track Worsley Pass/Taruahuna Pass option was was considerably higher than marked on flagged away, in favour of an easier the map and it went up and down like option down the Poulter to Casey's Hut the proverbial "drawers". Anyway, in the afternoon, and Andrews Shelter after much cursing they finally tomorrow. Rest morning was unofficarrived at the flat above Andrews ially declared (means the boss was Shelter and camped. A pleasant night asleep when the decision was made), was spent swatting heaps of blowflies and the chocolate scoffed by 9am - and Jack revealed all with uncharacterpeanut does not travel well, so 16 istic immodesty. Someone has pictures squares became 100 pieces and 1000 to prove it. crumbs. MONDAY 6 JANUARY The walk to Trust Poulter Hut was in the Poulter River bed. The Trust is It was an 8km roadwalk to the main a 6 bunk hut. There they stopped to highway, where Buncks hitched into read the log book and a recent edition Arthurs Pass to pick up the bus and of The Press, and to argue about user advise the driver of their pick-up being by point. The rest basked under a hot pays policies pushed govern- Canterbury sun. The bus was ment bureaucrats. Downstream to only Casey's Hut was by track initially on mins late (although they had already waited 5 hours for it), and overbooked grassy river terrace, then onto a by 10 people, but who could complain? swampy sidle and a small climb to The driver delivered them to the air- Casey's Hut - flash! They set themport in time to eat their way through selves up inside the 14 bunk hut but airport pies (not bad), heaps of soon elected to sleep out following a tomato sandwiches, continental cakes, mass invasion from civilisation. As savouries and several gallons of fruitthe sun was now shining, some bodies juice - but no snofreeze! Buncks washed. tried to persuade the checkout operator that she'd never sell the rest the SUNDAY of 5 JANUARY good and that she should sell it to Late start (11.30am) after sitting in them for $5 - she wasn't convinced and sun and airing gear. It was a 30 min wouldn't play their game. climb to the high point above Casey's Hut, where they admired the Kaikawakas, All up it was a great trip and enjoyed then followed a relatively dull track by everyone - even by the boss who's down to lunch at Surprise Creek in the got a few more grey hairs worrying hot sun. It was very Kaimanawa-like about people falling over on carpet here, with a tussocky stream bed and grass, or drowning in rivers. Those open tops. Casey's Saddle passed un- on the trip were Kevin (the boss or noticed then on down into the head of the old boy) Thompson, Barbara (Bog Andrews Stream and Hallelujah Flat. Connoisseur and Flat Pack Queen) There was an afternoon brew on the Thompson, Anne (no draping) Greenwood, bush edge (unscheduled and very bad Jack (God I'm unfit and will you for discipline according to the boss) carry my pack) McConchie, and Ian (the and after debate, Buncks opted for the fake fisherman, you fish are safe with river route while the rest of them me) Bunckenburg. (foolishly again) took the sidle. -Jack McConchie