Three Passes in Three Days

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Three Passes in Three Days Hugh Middleton This, this isn't about Harman, from Burnham were already in residence Whitehorn and Brownings. It's about when we arrived. The officer-in- Devilskin Saddle and a couple of dips charge, without our saying a thing, in the Main Divide near the Lewis Pass, promptly ordered four of his men outthat we called Brass Monkey Pass and side to sleep under their little fly- Cuthbertson Col. sheets. Goodness knows what he thought we looked like. A brisk stroll into Lake Christabel from Palmer Road got our muscles work- The weather forecast received by the ing again. (With ages ranging upwards Army from Christchurch Mountain Radio from 40 we were anxious not to overdo that evening was for rain, snow, etc. things on the first day.) That night, This worried us a little as we really at Lake Christabel Hut, lightning didn't know how we would get across flashed and thunder boomed so loudly the Divide to the Robinson. The map that the hut shook. What had been didn't indicate any passes, and the little more than a creek was a raging hut log books we'd consulted revealed torrent in the morning, and still it no records of any such crossing. Sure bucketed down. We stayed put, all enough, the morning revealed deteriorday. ating weather. Cloud obscured the tops and much of the sky. But it The rain eased that evening and by the wasn't raining - yet. We headed up next morning had stopped. Up onto the Doubtless as far as the first the tops overlooking One Mile Creek major tributary on the true right and the Lewis Pass Highway we went. (despite its size this stream isn't Fortunately the cloud base remained marked on NZMS1, S46). Keeping above high enough to see our way. The pass the gorge by sidling on the true left, at the head of Lucretia Stream was we followed this stream to the bushclearly visible and we could figure edge. It was drizzling by this time, out where Brass Monkey Bivouac must be. with thick cloud around the tops, but About an hour's sidle and we were there was no wind and a route upward there. Lunch and a hot brew perked looked obvious enough. Lunch was us up as a cold damp mist had rolled eaten beside a huge boulder at the in. Rather than face climbing high head of a very pretty blue lake (also to get into Lucretia Stream in 50 metre not marked on the map). Some 200 visibility, we dropped steeply down metres higher up and surrounded by into the head of Duchess Stream and crags and bluffs, we glimpsed a short bushbashed our way down to the Nina. flattish crest on the Divide. This was accomplished without difficulty except for the gorge just above The final ascent was made without the Nina. We elected to try the true difficulty. On top a brisk cold wind left and ended up climbing quite high. soon made us shiver. Snowgrass slopes (Perhaps the true right would be dropped steeply below us to the west, better?) Nevertheless we emerged but looked negotiable as far as we just a few yards from the little fivecould see. We descended cautiously bunk NZDA hut, some 32 hours after to first one broad shelf, and then leaving Brass Monkey Bivouac. At the another, from where we caught glimpses Nina, too, the flood had wrought its of the bush below. A further very havoc, spreading the contents of the steep and somewhat scrubby descent rubbish hole through the bush. brought us to the bush-edge in the Robinson just as the rain set in. Next morning dawned clear and bright. Keeping above the river on the true How nice to see the sun again. A left we crossed a tributary and very, pleasant day was spent crossing enjoyed easy travel for a time on good Devilskin Saddle to the Doubtful River. terraces. When further progress was We had the benefit of track notes for frustrated by a series of steep creeks this part of our journey, thanks to running in guts, we dropped to the Mark Pickering's yet-to-be-published river and, by good fortune, found ourguidebook. But with a cut track up selves in a broad gravel riverbed. Blind Stream, and instructions Some twenty minutes easy travel down scratched on occasional markers in past the forks brought us to Top Devilskin Stream, we scarcely needed Robinson Hut. them. A waterfall and gorge were negotiated on the true right without The storm we'd encountered at Lake difficulty, and a pair of blue duck Christabel had done its thing here, sighted on the way. An easy stroll too. Trees had crashed down all over up the Doubtful, almost blinded by the the riverbed and played havoc with the setting sun, saw us at the Doubtless river, much of which we found flowing Hut for the night. Nine soldiers between the NZFS hut and a small semi- derelict hut on the adjacent hillside. to higher ground. Fortunately it hadn't risen sufficiently to flow through the NZFS hut, Our last day in the bush dawned overalthough indications were it had got cast but fine. Cloud down to the to within 30cm of the bottom of the bush-edge ruled out a crossing to Lake door. The continuing rain had us Christabel so we plodded off down the worried that evening, but came to Robinson. Just below the hut a tree nothing. had fallen, pinning the bridge beneath one of its branches. Lindsay and By morning the rain had eased to George dutifully set about sawing drizzle and through gaps in the murk through the offending bough. And of we glimpsed fresh snow on the tops. course the inevitable happened = the Just as well we'd got across when we bridge springing back to its original did - snow on very steep snowgrass can position almost, but not quite, be treacherous. With Palmer Road succeeded in catapulting our two only about six hours tramping away heroes into the waters below. down the Robinson, we had time on our hands. The weather ruled out an A very pleasant stroll down the ascent of Mt Barron so the more Robinson in steadily improving weather, energetic turned their efforts to brought us back to Palmer Road and the saving Top Robinson Hut from the end of another great trip. Those ravages of the river. However, one participating were Lindsay Cuthbertson, more downpour could see Top Robinson George Kendall, Clive Hellyar and Hugh Hut carried away unless it is shifted Middleton. I long for scenes, where man hath never trod, A place where woman never smiled on wept There to abide with my Creator God, And sleep as I in childhood sweetly slept, Untroubling and untroubled where I lie, The grass below, above, the vaulted sky. John Clare from I am