A Walking Journey in the French Alps

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A Walking Journey in the French by Bruce Taylor Alps During 1986 I was working in Britain on Rosuel, a refuge or hut owned by the National a teacher exchange. I'd already travelled Park but leased by the people who ran the extensively in Europe on a previous trip restaurant/bar and managed the accommoand this time I decided I would explore the dation. Soon after arrival everyone had outdoors rather than see more big cities, gathered on an outdoor terrace for drinks. churches and castles. Possibilities for Later a superb five-course meal was enjoyed. tramping (known as "walking" or "rambling" The trip was off to a good start before any in Britain), climbing, skiing and cycling walking had been done! are many in Europe and just as enjoyable (if not more so) as doing the normal tourist All the refuges had wardens and provided thing. meals and drinks. It being France, considerable pride and care was taken over the prepar- I was living in Cumbria in the north-west ation of food. Even the more remote huts of England on the doorstep of the Lake would lay on a three-course dinner. Wine, District National Park and very handy to beer and spirits were available, too. Breakfast the Pennines and the Scottish Highlands. was always a simple meal of coffee or hot Weekends and longer holiday breaks were chocolate with bread and jam. Sleeping very pleasurably spent walking, "peak bagging" was in bunks or long platforms complete and cycling in England and Scotland. But with mattresses and blankets. We had to my major trip during last year was to the supply a sheet sleeping bag. The only problem French Alps and one of its most beautiful with these arrangements was that nobody parts, the Vanoise National Park in Savoy. was turned away - camping wasn't permitted - and the huts became insufferably overcrowded on some occasions. But there was no incon- The holiday was organised by a commercial siderate talking or noise at night - a welcome travel firm, Waymark Holidays, based in change from some New Zealand huts! London. There were 12 of us all "Poms" apart from me. Our leader was Jonathan Our route was a giant figure-of-eight through Preston, an Outward Bound instructor, who the National Park and adjacent areas. Well took care of all the accommodation and defined paths led through alpine meadows, travel arrangements and proved to be a pine forests and higher up over boulders conscientious and competent leader. He and loose rock. High peaks wreathed in also spoke fluent French which was a most permanent snow and glaciers were frequently useful skill for any trip leader here. in view. Sometimes we dropped into an alpine valley and walked through small villages We flew out from Heathrow to Geneva in and past summer chalets. There was a great Switzerland. From here it was a short profusion of flowers in the alpine meadows, distance to the French border and the valleys one of the joys of summer walking in the and mountains of Savoy. Our bus took three Alps. The wild animals were interesting, hours to reach Porte de Rosuel, our first too. The marmotte is the animal of the night's stop and an entry point into the Vanoise. It looks like a very large, plump Vanoise. We stayed in the Chalet Porte de squirrel and perches on rocks and whistles Typical refuge in Vanoise Bruce Taylor National Park across the valleys. Ibex (similar to an antelope I scrambled up climbed would be too grand in appearance) were also seen on one a description = was Pointe du Pisset (3033m). memorable occasion. As well, there were The approach was over rotten rock from many domestic animals such as COWs and a nearby saddle which I thought was goats grazing the high summer pastures. reminiscent of Mt Angelus. Each day's walking took about six hours I can certainly recommend this type of holiday on average. Then there would be time to if you are going to Europe. My trip had scale a nearby peak if you wanted to admire been a medium grade tramp over good paths the panorama. We carried all our clothes with stunning scenery. Both Waymark and and personal gear but there was no need Ramblers Holidays organise walking, to take food except for a share of lunch mountaineering and ski touring holidays (which had been bought from a village shop in Europe. All levels of fitness are catered or the warden of the last refuge) and your for. Both are reputable and experienced own scroggin. Along the paths we met many British firms. French but saw very few foreigners. The French are very proud of the Vanoise and flock there in large numbers in summer If you are planning a trip to Britain's outdoors, and winter. I should mention that the Youth Hostel Associations in England, Wales and Scotland In this tour of 13 days there were many run organised holiday tours - walking, highlights. One was the view of Mt Blanc climbing, cycling and other outdoor pursuits. at sunset and dawn, pink with the sun on You stay in youth hostels and each tour its high slopes. From the same refuge we has a leader and, where appropriate, could see the Alps of Italy. Climbing up instructors. It is a very good way to get a glacier, with peaks and other glaciers into the British hills. You meet people from towering around, to reach the Grand Col all over Western Europe. All the basic at 2935 metres, was another great experience. arrangements such as accommodation, the It was spoilt somewhat when we later came route and food have been made for you. across the smelly toilet at the top and a One thing, though - you have to belong ski-field access road. The highest peak to the New Zealand YHA or another YHA. As We Travel I stand on many hills and see as many inclines but will I ever escape those far blue crumpled lines? To every mountain reached another left behind for every peak scaled a dozen more unclimbed. I trace the valleys down and cross the wider plains, but still on every side a vast landscape remains. I search too hard, and wish the searching done; yet know the death in so poor a victory won. Mark Pickering, 1982 Kate Thomas