Frostfright

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Frostfright by Kirsty Woods It was the middle of a fine hot day as Dale gently to the feel of the place. On the way Parsons, Rex Benbrook, myself and non to the hut I more than gently lost my cool club members Angela Hair, Chris Brownson as, weighed down with gear, I found myself and Sue Lamont climbed out of the small up to my waist in a hole, my legs dangling plane onto the slope above Tasman Saddle in space.... whimpering uninhibitedly, I called Hut. It was February, and we had decided for Rex to come and help me out. A lesson to get in some climbing practice before learnt: even where the glacier looked totally the end of summer. clear of slots, it was impossible to tell what was lurking beneath the surface. With all our gear, which included hammers, axes, tents, ropes, stoves and any other There was a large crowd at the hut. After paraphernalia you could think of, we only a quick chat and a gossip, we tied on to just managed to fit into the plane. To the the ropes and trudged off to look for a campuninitiated we may have looked like real site. I must admit that we felt a little dubious goers, but anyone who had spent some time as we headed off, our heads full of thoughts at Mt Cook would have raised their eyebrows of what could happen below our tents after at the sight of our packs. a few hot, sunny days. Eventually, the perfect spot was found. If Too late anyhow we were already committed. you can't be sure where the crevasses As we unloaded our gear from the plane, then why not in a place where they are, I casually asked the pilot what he thought camp are quite obvious.... in one! The about the route to the hut: right large crevasse in which we pitched our tents was "Aw, I reckon its okay. You don't need to "filled in" with snow and had a solid looking rope up. Just follow the tracks leading ledge along one side. After a bit of digging down.... loads of people have been down and rearranging, three tents were able to that way." fit neatly along the ledge. After digging a hole for.... you know what.... we were Everyone agreed it looked clean of slots, set. so off we went, laden with packs and boxes As that first evening drew I to full of food. We weren't planning to stay realise that I wasn't adjusting on, too began well to at the hut, but to call in before searching the environment. Taking about an hour for a suitable campsite. This trip was intended to my primus in the I to toughen us up! light cold, began to swear profusely and to wonder what I was I must say that it's a strange feeling being doing there. It also dawned on me that dropped in the middle of a glacier. Flying we were basically pretty dependent on each in doesn't give you much time to adjust other and that to get around, another person Dale on Tasman Saddle Kirsty Woods

. : anchors. By the time we got there, which didn't take too long, I felt really glad to have made the effort. I suppose we all suffer and a rope were necessary. There would be no room for tiffs or sulking off on one's from wimpish moments from time to time! own. It was especially nice to be able to wave was surprised at the comfortable sleep to the others on the summit of Green, and had that first night (poofter pads really the views of the other mountains were quite are a must!). Dragging ourselves up before stunning. To think that a few hours earlier daybreak, we made ready to trudge our I couldn't have cared less... way up Hochstetter Dome which looked By mid afternoon we'd dispensed with lunch like a pleasant, straightforward climb. It in a leisurely fashion, and started the descent didn't prove us wrong, except that the snow, back down to the glacier. The snow was which ranged from pure sludge to ice, could have been better. After a short ice climb now quite sugary and felt especially unstable on the narrow ridge leading to the climb on the western side of the summit, Rex down. On the long descent leading to the and Dale headed off for some more trudging Tasman we took it slowly, the snow while the rest of us headed back down to varying lunch. once again between icy, sugary stuff and a lazy A good day. slush. By the time we crossed the glacier back to our tents, the sun was dawned sinking, Day 3 nice and clear; but as I awoke covering everything in a golden I noticed that no-one else had woken, so light. took the opportunity of going back to sleep.... Another day dawned reasonably clear, though we had heard via the radio at the hut that Take Two: The day dawned again as the the weather was due to close in. Deciding others woke and were alarmed at the lateness to make the most of it, we headed for Mt of the hour. We rushed our things together Aylmer, to the north of Tasman Saddle. Mt and skimped on breakfast and brews. Our Aylmer is one of the easier climbs around plan for the day was to cross to the western Tasman Saddle, and when conditions are side of the glacier and to take a look at good it's just a plod to the top. Once again, Mts Walter and Green from Divers Col, however, the climb was particularly icy, a flat area between the two summits. and we used a couple of ice screws on the way up. The wind had come up and cooled Sue and Chris decided to do their own thing things down pretty quickly. for the day, so with Rex and I on one rope, and Angela and Dale on the other, we crossed During the last few days at Tasman, the the glacier, skirted a wide area of avalanche hut was the best place to be. The weather debris, and began to climb up to Divers closed in solidly and only cleared enough Col. It wasn't long before I began to regret on one day to allow us a walk to the Saddle not drinking more before we left. It doesn't and a play at ice climbing in a crevasse. take long to become dehydrated in the sun The time was not wasted, however, as we and snow, particularly when you're using had quite a sociable time getting to know up a lot of energy.... and melting snow for the other people in the hut. water can be a hassle. It was too difficult The week drew to a close and we had to to get out my water bottle so I started nibbling think about leaving. Rex and Dale planned bits of snow to moisten my mouth. to spend a further week at Mt Cook having a go at Cook itself. Angela and I were due The higher we got, the more uncomfortable to leave for Christchurch that Sunday and I felt. The conditions were quite icy at were prepared for the walk down the Tasman. that stage and as I looked down at the glacier The day before we were due to leave, however, way below, and the tourist planes flying the we grabbed opportunity of a back wished flight above, I I was up there looking smug, out (the plane brings in climbers, and offers not down here looking rather wimpish. a cheap flight back). It was great to get to the col and we spread The morning seemed clear when we trudged ourselves out in the sun for a while. Dale up to the slope where we were to meet the and Angela decided to have a shot at Green, plane. Rex and Dale weren't moving on and as it looked steep and icy they climbed until the next day, and Chris and Sue planned up to the summit ridge using anchors. The to have a shot at Elie de Beaumont via Mt rest appeared straightforward, although Walter, using the same route we had used, they told us later that the snow was very and accompanied by some of the other people slushy on the ridge and care was certainly staying at the hut. needed. As we flew out I looked down at the Rex and I thought we'd better get a move spectacular scenery. We could make out on and headed off to climb Walter. Parts Chris, Sue and the others as they moved of the climb were quite icy but, not being up to Divers Col, and I watched with a mixture too steep, we were able to climb it without of envy and relief.