Journey Through Nepal

Machine-read text (unproofread)

Read from the scans by software, so it contains mistakes. Typing it up properly would help blind readers: use Suggest an edit.

Journey through Nepal by Alex Gray Alex Gray In March of this year I spent a month in Nepal. We had originally planned we later regretted as the sun got hotter to walk the Jomosom-Manang trek which and our unfit bodies rebelled against circles the Annapurna massif and would unaccustomed exercise. Our first views have taken about 22 days trekking. However, of Machhapuchhre (Fish Tail) and Annapurna after discussing the merits of this trek versus South were unforgettable. the shorter trek into the Annapurna Sanctuary, we decided on the latter which would take It took seven days to reach Annapurna us closer to the mountains. Sanctury, by which time our bodies were a lot fitter but the food and guest house The first rumour to dispel is that you need standard progressively deteriorated. The to go on an organised trek. Most trekking hardest day was a 610m climb one windless routes have guest houses at regular intervals hot afternoon, which took us up to Chomrong so you don't need to carry a tent. The guest at 2300m altitude. As usual, the guide books houses offer basic food and shelter but you and maps we had bought in Kathmandu were need to provide your own sleeping bag. out of date, with new routes and guest houses Organised treks are promoted heavily by gleaned from other travellers, not on the travel agents but travelling on your own map. The maps are somewhat primitive offers much greater flexibility. by western standards but they are perfectly adequate for trekking. The trek started from Pokhara, the second largest town after the capital, Kathmandu. The food in the mountains is plain with the Only 200km separates the two, but it's an odd memorable exception like chocolate eight hour bone-shaking ride travelling by cake and sauce at Hilltop Lodge, Ghorepani. bus. The road has deteriorated since I was We took Moro bars and chocolate with us last in Nepal in 1978. because the local equivalent is three times the price. On the first day we left the sprawling town of Pokhara and walked along a wide, The highlight of the trip was the early morning picturesque valley towards Naudanda and trip from the base camp into the Sanctuary. Kanre. We could have taken a hopelessly We had a cold, somewhat sleepless night overcrowded jeep but chose to walk, a decision and got up at 5.30 am to climb the last 460m up to about 4420m. The snow was crisp for washing hair. and firm as the first streaks of sunlight hit the summit peaks. The views were We returned through dense rhododendron breathtaking - 360 degrees of stunning forests to Ghorepani. The views of Dhaulagiri mountain peaks, many of which were over (8172m) were spectacular so we decided 7000m high. Photographs cannot do justice to have a rest day at Hilltop Lodge which to a panorama that is etched in my memory had unusually tasty food. for life. The way back to Pokhara was uneventful On the return from the Sanctuary we had apart from a sudden thunderstorm which a scary few minutes crossing a fresh avalanche gave us an unexpected shower. That was across the narrow Modi Khola valley. It really the only wet weather of the trip wasn't till we were in the middle of the the usual weather pattern was a fine, cloudless cauliflower-like snow that we realised that morning, becoming overcast in the afternoon this wasn't the same snow we had crossed and then a shower of rain in the evening the day before. We crossed the snow at or overnight. right angles to minimise the risk and breathed a sigh of relief when we were safely on Compared with tramping in the Tararuas, the other side. trekking is quite laid back with a "Brian Hunt" brewstop every hour if you wish. As Back at Chomrong we managed the luxury you don't have to carry any food it's possible of a hot shower produced from a wood fire to stay in the hills almost indefinitely as under a 44 gallon drum. The temperature long as you carry enough cash. You can't varied from boiling hot to lukewarm - great cash travellers cheques in the Himalayas! Annapurna Base Camp Alex Gray overshadowed by Annapurna South

Hokitika Hop by Hugh Middleton Where to this year? After six annual one-week We escaped early in the morning, still on trips in the South Island, plus numerous good terms with the locals, but in Christmas trips, the four of us were pretty deteriorating weather. An excellent track familiar with most of the prime tramping soon had us to the bush edge in Frews Creek, areas within a day's drive of Picton. Except once the site of an old slab hut known to the Paparoas. But the combination of almost Pascoel2) as the "Royal Hotel". We could permanent cloud and rain, with the lack find only vestiges of it. Nearby the track of huts and tracks, offers slim prospects crossed a chasm that had taken me more for a good trip in the Paparoas in a single than an hour to cross in 1969 using climbing week. Then, thumbing through Mark ropes. On this occasion it was spanned by Pickering's newly published guidebook@l), two steel cables and presented little bother. I stumbled across his memory-evoking piece called "Old West Coast". Lindsay, Warren Snow poles marked our route up through and I had all been in the same general area the tussocks to Frews Bivouac and Saddle. on at least one previous occasion, but not I believe there's a terrific view from the for almost 20 years. Though the rainfall top - down the Hokitika and out to sea thereabouts is second to none, sO are the on a good day - but I've yet to experience huts and tracks, and the scenery is terrific. it. A steep descent took us to the broad, And I for one was eager to see what things open headwaters of the Hokitika. Then were like after such a long time. it was down the riverbed for a time before picking up an excellent track on the true left. This crossed a prominent knob before sidling above a gorge to Bluff Hut - very clean and comfortable, set on the bush edge overlooking the Mungo with a water tap in the porch and a working kerosene stove inside. A welcome sight after several hours in the rain. Arriving at the Hokitika River road end on a beautifully fine afternoon, we parked our shiny new Landcruiser beside a rusty well-used version of the same thing. The track upstream soon deviated from its former route and we crossed the Hokitika River Continuing rain next inorning led to a lingering via a cableway to Rapid Creek Hut, before departure after lunch. A very steep descent continuing up the true left bank and into involving two fixed ladders took us to the the Whitcombe River's Collier Gorge. Despite river in an hour or so and saw us the excellent track, we had to pick our way heading virtual forest upstream to Poet Hut. But we never made through a of gin traps. Before it. Poet Creek was in such a spate that long, frustrated at stepping over the things we spent more than an hour to find and worried at the prospect of putting fingers trying on them while ascending steep pitches, we a way to cross. No wires here. Finally intentionally sprang most of them. Large discretion prevailed and we camped rather than struggle all the way back to Bluff Hut. slips descending from the subalpine scrub appear to have destroyed much of the old track and forced the rerouting with its double An uncomfortable night was spent cramped river crossing. The second crossing, a bridge in our little tent, listening to the roar of at the upstream end of the gorge, soon had the Mungo and the even louder crashing of boulders bounding down the slip on the us at Frews for the night. opposite bank. Come the morning So much debris had into the river that it was Frews actually consists of two huts. The piled old Canterbury Mountaineering Club Hut partially blocked despite its furious spate. was built in the 40's according to an old Even more discretion now prevailed and we retreated to Bluff Hut in rain. chap we later met at Thomas Bros Garage steady in Hokitika. In residence in the newer Forest Around midnight a solitary flash of lightning Service hut were several possum trappers. and crash of thunder ushered in April Fools Day, and the Department of Conservation. Their dogs and their skins occupied the old hut. The one who admitted we'd set off their traps nearly spoilt our stay. But No rain next morning. What a relief! We somehow peace was restored and we yarned could actually see Toaroha Saddle despite until late. the heavy overcast. No trouble with Poet