Canoeing Canadian Style

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CANOEING CANADIAN STYLE Murray Worsop decided that this wast the J way to travel - peaceful, with less effort than walking, alonewith onlythe forces of nature to contend I with. - And so the next morning I set off alone. I - had decided to restrict myself to the western side off the circuit, a return trip of approximately 60 km; I did not hawetimetodothcompletes circuit a distance of 116 km and being inexperienced, I was wary about rivers. I therefore missed out on the mountain lakes on the eastern ands southern section ofthe circuit, and some exciting white water. However I was still in for a memorable experience. It seems like a dream now but a dream not easily forgotten. Layer upon layer of Any beautiful images every day. apprehension I had about canoeing alone in 1 departed rather late the first the last Bowron Lake Provincial Park, vanished as soon person to be allowed to enter the morning, as Is saw the mirrored surface of Bowron Lake, (Numbers park that day. framed by majestic lakeside trees. And within are controlled to prevent over- 10: minutes I was on my way! crowding.) Progress across the placid surface Ihad travelled a great distance to be there; 1600 km of driving through some magnificent scenery and a truly awesome sea voyage through the Inside Passage from Port hardy on Vancouver Island to Prince Rupert on the mainland (see map). The cause for great haste on arrival? The owner of Beckers Lodge, where I was to stay that night, and who was to hire me a canoe for my journey, invited me on a mad chase up the first lake on the circuit of the Park. The objective was to swap canoes with a family who had left earlier that morning. The chase was not that mad, for after the first portage of 2 to 4 km, we managed to hitch a tow with Ministry of Parks staff in their outboard motor boat. The paddle back, my first ever, seemed easy with an experienced canoeist in the back. However, I quickly Departure point-Bowron Lake. (Photo: Murray Worsop.)

creek is very shallow. I towed my canoe, rather like walking the dog, as the current was flowing in my direction. There were a few nervous moments on the Cariboo River, even though it does run slack. If you miss thei narrow entrance to Unna Lake you soon make a 24 metre decent down the Cariboo Falls - an experience you would not live to repeat. (People have died !) Spectacle Lake. (Photo: Murray Worsop.) At Unna Lake you can play at being a tourist; paddle to the southwest shore and walk 1.6.km ofl Bowron Lake was very slow, and thei route through forest for a view of the spectacular less direct. It was in fact a rather zig-zag route falls, visit Lake Rum, or just swim and lie about as) I grappled with the "J" stroke in my one in the sun the publicity material is all true. person clipper canoe. Two hours later I reached the south end of the lake. Here, I am pestered during lunch by "whiskey Jays" - - birds about the size of our blackbird, The current in the Bowron River is slack as it which have two basic tactics for stealing your meanders through a "magnificent marsh where food. A quiet approach, where they sneak up to moose and wildfowl may very likely be seen."I your feet and make a quick jab, or a bold saw no moose but a lot ofl birdlife, as I floated swoop to pluck the food out of your hand. almost soundlessly. There are also various furry 'critters' to deal with at campsites; ground squirrels and Swan Lake, without swans, was next. Grey chipmunks love stealing scroggin from your clouds and a strong breeze appeared midpack. However none of these animals will run afternoon and so I aimed for a campsite with a away with your gear like wekas, or tear it up cooking shelter on Spectacle Lakes. likel keas except of course, bears! (Campsites are provided with basic facilities and there are also a few cooking shelters and old trappers' cabins, but no huts this is supposed to be a true wilderness experience.) I had a rather nervous moment as I tried to manage my canoe in thei increasing swell, at one stage ending broadside on to the waves. However, after a bit of a battle, I reached my destination. The golden sands on which I beached my canoe were a welcome sight. Almost miraculously, the grey clouds disappeared (dumping their rain on the eastern lakes Ilater heard), the sun shone bright, the lake flattened and I was treated to a spectacular Canadian sunset progressive stages of yellow, pink and red Cariboo Falls. (Photo: Murray Worsop.) The return from Unna Lake was the reverse of DAY2- I destination Unna Lake, a "perfect thei first 2 days. The experiences however, gem of clear water and sandy shores". I gently were completely different. The day was again paddled out into the rising mist, arriving at the perfect when I departed, thel lakes all like first portage after 2 hours. The first portage mirrors, the reflections of forests and was simply accomplished as I was travelling mountains perfect. On Babcock Lake, I was the light - 21 trips over 400 metres to thej pond-like only human presence and almost the only Lake Skoi. sound as I floated close to the shore, was the gentle swish of my paddle. I felt strangely out Another portage of 4001 metres and I was on ofj place, especially when a dragon fly stunned Lake Babcock and then Babcock Creek. This itself on the side of the canoe.

vy U I Sentinel Rock BOWRON LAKE CAMPGROUND CIRCUIT REGISTRATION, AND AA VISITOR CENTRE Lo ke PRIVATE LODGES Kibbee OUTFITTERS, CAMPGROUNDS Iebhonigain SMALL BOAT LAUNCHING a PORTAGES Pr PARK HEADQUARTERS, a Canoe float Indianpointt K Mtn. d M C Power Boats C Prohibited Beyond a This Point o P C M H HEAD OF NAVIGATION Swan Lake a a PAT ESpectacle POINT Do P Lakes S dietr L WELLS TO BOWRO 18 MILES 28.8 L b PORTAGE Skoi ma . ShR op a a Raw a Bog FOE C ARKERVILLE UNNAVIGABLE. A LINE CANOES Es 1 Western Circuit ofBowron Lake Provincial S Unna Park. The dotted line shows the route that was taken from Bowron Lake to Unna Lake and CARIBOO return. FALLS F 80': 24m me passed a huge school of trout. The moose allowed itself to be photographed from a range of about 10 metres. The afternoon was hard work paddling into a light breeze and arriving at my last campsite at about 3.30 p.m., on the outlet stream to the Bowron River. The site is not as idyllic as the previous ones, but for after dinner entertainment a beaver arrived. I shared dinner with a large group of Germans and discussed the relative merits of NZ and German wines they were drinking Canadian wine! The last day was to be very short, but I left early hoping to see moose and beaver. I saw both. In fact the beaver are sO casual, I almost ran several down as I floated quietly with the current. The final paddle across Bowron Lake was rather mundane after all that had come before it, but the thought of a cold beer kept me going and I cut 30 minutes off the first day's time. Iadmit I was lucky with the weather - lakes can be dull when the sky is cloudy. However, the scenery is so varied that I would recommend thet trip to anyone contemplating visiting Canada. I decided at an early stage that I would be back to do the full circuit. Iti is popular at present to ski the western areas of Canada. Why not be more adventurous and try canoeing instead. You do not have to take Iarrived on the Spectacle Lakes late morning. thel long route I took; Bowron Lake Provincial Within 30 minutes one of thel highlights oft my Park is 800 km from Vancouver if you take the trip passed by - first a moose. and 20 calves direct route. Banff is 850km from Vancouver. If feeding amongst the rushes at the side of the you insist on using skis, why not cross country lake, then a black bear ambled along the ski the frozen lakes in winter. That is a shores, oblivious of my close presence. Under challenge I would also like to take on one day.