Alpine Instruction - 1991

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ALPINE INSTRUCTION - 1991 Andrew McLellan AIC 1: 9-11 August, Ruapehu Prefaced by an introduction to rope management several Warning should be made of Snowcave Induced Delusions weeks beforehand, our budding band of snow bunnies set of Latrine Ensuites (SIDLE). A member of our off in search of cornices, spindrift and chutes. neighbouring cave was obviously suffering from SIDLE confirming our suspicion that their cave was really an Armed only with the mere basics, ie plastics, crabs, ensuite to ours. snowstakes, crampons, prussic loops, slings, harnesses, ice-axe, sticht plates, figure eight descenders etc. (ever "Bagging Peaks" is the glamour end of transalpine get the feeling that climbers are gear freaks?) along with tramping/climbing. For those Aspiring to Mount above a certain degree of naivety, the punters were greeted by the clouds, Cook in the rarefied air of high altitudes and Ruapehu at its best. bask in the Mitrey views then a wee jaunt up the crater was in order. For some, sweating profusely under layers Saturday brought a strong northerly with sleet, hail and of polyprop, wool, polarpile, overtrou and parka etc. was snow showers which even kept the skiers away. all worthwhile with the pay off of a splendid view and Nevertheless, certain skills must be learnt, and what quick ADT descent. better way to practice such skills as self arresting and step cutting than in conditions one expects of alpine travel. Again the TAG were probably off somewhere playing One soon learns which end of the ice-axe is sharpest. with their colourful toys and bits of rope, dangling off cliff faces etc. Advanced Descent Techniques (ADTS), also known in layperson's terms as "bumslides", were also extensively explored. No doubt the more serious amongst us, that is, AIC 111: 12-13 October, Mt Taranaki The. Advanced Group (TAG), were off doing some really serious stuff using all their fancy gear, which they always This trip has traditionally been the highlight of alpine carry around with them (8/10 for colour co-ordination). instruction courses. The mountain offers plenty of Or maybe TAG were practising ADTS as well? opportunities to apply newly learnt skills in an unfamiliar and often hostile environment. Accommodation courtesy of the Girl Guides Association prepared punters for the next day of clearing showers, belay techniques, self-arresting and more ADTS. And what AIC would be complete without the obligatory game of touch (push, shove, charge, shoulder charge) footy in the snow and pummelling of skiers, cars or anything else that moved within the vicinity of "the Duchess" with snowballs. AIC 2: 21-22 September, Ruapehu By now, some of the magical novelty of frolicking in white fluffy powder had worn off. Perhaps this explained to a certain degree the near mutiny brewing amongst the unsupervised punters in Wellington. However, after some gentle persuasion (not unlike those tactics used by Bush against Hussein), "the Duchess" was pointed in the direction of gale force nor' westerlies that would not arrive. In hindsight, the weather was favourable. Those in the know opted for 5 star accommodation in the luxurious surrounds of a handcrafted snow cavern for Saturday night. Not only were fears of waking as giant popsicles allayed but our participants managed to save $4 in accommodation costs for a mere 6-8 hours work.

Friday night brought perfect conditions with a cool, clear, calm night. While the TAG set off for the summit by moonlight, others (feeling that 3 am is a reasonable hour to retire) crawled into our pits. TAG (consisting of Mark Brown, Robbie Morrison, Tommy Ng, Keith and Christina Strode-Penny, Harry Smith) reached the summit in time for the sunrise. With this scene fresh in their minds, they began their descent. At about 7.20 am, approximately 100 metres below the summit, Tommy Ng lost his footing on firm snow. Unable to self-arrest he slid some 600 - 1000 metres before his body came to rest near Humphrey's Castle. Recovery of Tommy's body was carried out by members of the club in co-ordination with New Plymouth Police and Mountain Rescue Team. Tommy will be dearly missed by all who knew him. He brought to the club a quiet enthusiasm for many outdoor activities with a particularly strong background in rockclimbing. His tragic death shows us the risks we face when involved in transalpine travel and climbing. To the instructors and organisers of this year's AIC, thanks forl leadership and encouragement under sometimes trying circumstances. In particular, thanks to: Lyndsay Fletcher, Rex Benbrooke, Eric Evans, Geoff Crockford, Struan Little, Mark Brown. photos: on Mt Taranaki (Harry Smith)