Winter at Arthur's

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WINTER AT ARTHUR'S Harry Smith Viewj from Mt. Aiken (Harry Smith) "This is the life" I thought, as I stretched out in the easy- That didn't stop us however. We virtually ploughed chair in front of the roaring coal fire, with a drink in my trenches all the way up some of the peaks, sticking to the hand and sixties Chicago Blues playing on Rex's ghetto- ridge tops to avoid the ever-present avalanche danger. blaster on the mantelpiece. In the corner of the room Anita Catchpole, Robyn McGettigan, Mark Loveard and This was exhausting work, but we were rewarded by Steve Beechey were playing cards, in the kitchen Paul spectacular views, with the valleys and ridges of the Michl and Lyndsay Fletcher were cooking yet another whole Arthur's Pass region spread out around us like a brilliant dinner, and outside the window snow was falling map. Lyndsay went with us on the first day, but turned softly through the beech trees in the fading twilight. "A back after lunch because of the snow conditions he had week in Arthur's Pass sure beats work in the office, I climbed all these peaks several times and sO didn't have decided. quite the same enthusiasm (or maybe stupidity) that we did. This was the second year in a row that I'd been to Arthur's Pass for a week-long mid-winter trip organised In the course of the week we made ascents of Mt Aiken, by Lyndsay. Like the previous year we were staying in Mt Bealey and Mt Avalanche, three local peaks that rise the Christchurch Tramping Club's comfortable and well- up on either side of the township. Although all are equipped lodge in Arthur's Pass township. But unlike the straight forward snow plods, it was satisfying to reach the previous year, the weather was good and everyone got top. However, we were always aware of Mt Rolleston, lots of things done. the giant of the region, towering over us, defeating us for a second year running with its very long approach ridges, Mark and I had come to do some climbing. poor snow conditions, and potential avalanche danger. Unfortunately, the snow conditions were never very good Maybe next year the conditions will finally be right! there had been some big snow dumps the week before and the snow was knee or waist deep, even a long way below the tree line.

Anita, Robyn, Lyndsay, Paul and Steve spent most days To make up for this disaster we discovered that since last going skiing at the local ski fields, and entertained Mark year a new pub has been opened, just outside the park and me with stories of the horrors of using nutcrackers at boundary at Bealey. This is conveniently located on the Broken River. One day, all of us went skiing at Porter's way back to the Pass from the skifields, and much closer Heights. This was my first time on a South Island ski to Arthur's Pass township than Jacksons's Pub on the field, and it proved to be very different from the crowded West Coast, which we had visited last year. slopes, half hour queues, and rocks and bluffs at Whakapapa. The highlight was having lunch in the sun on All too soon, the week came to an end, and it was time to the crest of the range at the top of the field, with great pile the gear back into the cars and head back north. For views in all directions. the others it was back to work, but not for me I had two days reprieve, and stopped off in Kaikoura to go whale Lake Coleridge was visible far below us on the other side watching. of the range, a splash of deep blue in the middle of a brown landscape of strange glacier carved hills and This is the third or fourth time that Lyndsay has organised valleys and Mt Cook was visible in the distance. a week at Arthur's Pass with members of the club, so it looks well on the way to becoming a club tradition: a Another day, Mark and I borrowed Anita and Robyn's mid- winter week away to the mountains for club mountain bikes for a day trip over the Pass. Even with the members with an interest in mountaineering and skiing low gears I found the climb hard work. However this was and mountain biking and good company and good food rewarded by a great ride down the other side. and pleasant pubs and good music and great scenery and playing scrabble and relaxing in front of a roaring fire.. We descended the hairpin curves and loose gravel of the zigzag to the smell of burning brake rubber, then opened up for an exciting high-speed run down the Otira Gorge, a spectacular place with the road carved into the cliff face. After lunch in the sun beside the Otira River, we continued down valley to the junction with the Taramakau, a very pleasant ride past bush covered hillsides rising up to snowy peaks on both sides of the valley - and virtually no traffic. We returned to Otira in time to catch the afternoon train back through the tunnel to Arthur's Pass township, avoiding the long climb back over the Pass. "This is the civilised way to go cycling", we decided, and we weren't even charged for the ride. Robyn and Anita, who had cycled as far as Jackson's a couple of days earlier and had then returned via the Pass, were most annoyed. By Thursday we needed a rest day. Luckily the weather closed in and it began to snow. The day was spent reading, listening to music, playing scrabble and cards, eating, and generally slothing around. Anita cleaned up the scrabble with a seven letter word and fifty extra points, but I'll get my revenge next year. By the end of the day, some people got a bit restless, SO Anita and Robyn took off on a night time mountain bike ride to the top of the Pass. Lyndsay joined them on a single speed wreck which we had found in the coal cellar under the hut. We did have one major disappointment with the week - some time in the previous twelve months, the Arthur's Pass Squash Club had wound up and the squash court was padlocked up with the power cut off. We discussed various schemes to overcome this major calamity, including running power leads from the lodge across the main highway to the disused railway shed that Biking in storm-gear (Harry Smith) housed the court. In the end we admitted defeat and passed a squash-less week. Lets hope that the court is available again next year.