The Poms Next Adventure

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THE POMS NEXT ADVENTURE Tanya Loveard Leaving New Zealand was painful but the departure was After bartering to agree on a price, Mark set off in the softened by the thought of travelling in South America. nappy-like harness using his arms to pull him and his We set off with a smattering of Spanish, some kiwi pack across. It all looked so simple! I was petrified when Marmite and our rucksacks'. it was my turn. I 'sat' midway across trying not to look down at the raging torrent ten metres below, or at the We had decided to do a tramp in the Andes and chose the loosely tied knot which held me to the hook. It was a Inca trail outside La Paz. By this stage in our travels we two-feet-forward one-foot-back crossing. Every time I were pretty hardy and catching an open truck was got a bit closer to Mark waiting on the other bank, I also standard transport. Huddled in the back of a truck (not a slipped back a little. When the ordeal was eventually over lorry!) the locals took delight at our walking boots and I sat on the bank shaking, and cramming sweets into my offered us coca leaves which contain cocaine. We jostled mouth like there was no tomorrow. I vowed never again. to a height of 4000 metres and scrambled off our deluxe transport to start the trail. The directions were vague and Everything else that day faded into insignificance. We the weather was closing in as we battled up hill with the spent the rest of the day walking through tropical altitude getting the better of me. In the end the noble old rainforest with beautiful flowers and lush vegetation. We boy carried both packs to the 4800 metre pass. stopped for the night at the 'Japanese House'. This belonged to a Japanese recluse who had lived in his Lunch nestled into a rock was really welcome, although paradise for 30 years. He had made flat ground in his cold. A distant thudding came nearer and we watched as garden to enable travellers to camp, and provided a we met our first locals of the trail. They smiled, we fireplace for them to use. The rain stopped briefly as we smiled and practised our extensive Espanol! set up camp and shared our meal with him. He showed us postcards he had received from travellers all around the The clouds cleared as we walked down the Inca road to world - even some from Wellington! some ruins and made our first camp surrounded with beautiful peaks, lamas and alpacas. It was hard to leave that beautiful place the following morning, but we were keen to finish the trail as we were We awoke next morning with strong headaches from the continually wet and obviously getting a bit smelly. altitude, and so we were keen to walk down the valley. Rivers, more Inca road, deserted villages, and calls of We walked for 3 hours to reach a village at the road end, "bon bon" were features of the second day. Occassionally but unfortunately we had missed the truck that day. So we passed local Chola women. They made an interesting we spent the afternoon and night with the village baker. sight as they wore bowler hats and vibrantly coloured Watching him and his three fellow workers work, made shawls. me appreciate that for this baker work was life and life was work. One man spent the whole day chopping wood We were soaked within five minutes once the rain began for the stove, one man cleaned, and two made the rolls. in earnest. I remember singing "Tararua is terrific" as we Their bread was great - I'd recommend a freshly baked trudged along. roll from this bakery any day. We didn't get as far as we had hoped that day and were After a memorable night with the baker boys the truck forced to camp beside a raging river. This led to great didn't arrive in the morning, much to our anxiety. It also caused Mark to stick his head out of the disappointment. So we were a bit disheartened as we had tent on the hour, every hour, throughout the night. But to walk solidly for four hours to get to the next road end. the Loveards survived! We chose an open-top wooden truck to travel from the However, ifl had known what the morning was to bring Yungas back to La Paz. This four hour journey is another I wouldn't have got out of the tent until the river was low experience I would not repeat. Its fine if you are keen on: enough to cross in good WT&MC fashion. single track dirt roads, sheer thousand metre drops, overhanging rock ledges, overhanging waterfalls, and We tried very hard to find a way to cross the river but crosses and memorials every ten metres. Obviously for there were no bridges and the river was in flood. Then folk who enjoy life this was living a little too by chance?? an Andean man came and showed us a wire dangerously. At one point in the journey Mark moved across the river. We were dumbfounded! He then over to me and told me to get ready tojump. Now if that proudly displayed a sheet and pulley hook. Both of us doesn' 't shed a few kilos, I don't know what would! were dripping wet and keen to continue, but I wasn't sure ifI was that keen! After the worst of the journey was over we had to change to a banana truck. This clapped out near the top of the pass when the temperature was just about freezing. So how can I conclude - a wonderful experience but I Thankfully a kind Peruvian family took pity on us and don't think I'll be going there again for my holidays! we rode back to La Paz in the boot of their station wagon luxury after what we had gotten used to. Along the Inca Trail The Loveards To those who have struggled with them, the hills reveal beauties they will not disclose to those who make no effort. That is the reward the mountains give to effort. And it is because they have SO much to give and give it so lavishly to those who will wrestle with them that men love the mountains and go back to them again and again... The mountains reserve their choice gifts for those who stand upon their summits. Sir Francis Youngblood