Carretera Austral, Chile - The Road of Opportunity

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CARRETERA AUSTRAL, CHILE THE ROAD OF OPPORTUNITY Andrew McLellan surprising therefore, to find ourselves huddled in al bus shelter on the second day. But to our delight, a local Peruvian forestry foreman pointed us towards a campsite and the local "termas" (hotpools), where we spent the still misty evening recovering au naturel. Ourstayatthenexttown.) Hornopiren, was somewhat longer than planned. Salmon fishery aside, after 2 days our "things-to-do"listhadbeenexhausted. TheperfectconeofVolcanHornopiren was the backdrop for the following conversation with the cafe owner at the ferry slip: Jo: So today's boat left early? Cafe: (Incomprehensible staccato Spanish reply). Jo: There is no other boat today? Argentina between Villegas and Lago Guillermo Andrew McLellan Cafe: Repeat verse 1. Jo: The boat leaves at 3pm tomorrow? must admit to a small attack of of Puerto Montt, was a far cry from Cafe: Maybe. Itdepends ont the crew! anxiety as we clattered tent poles the hectic, hot, and smoggy circus of (Ishiftuneasily in my growing puddle and rattled pegs, setting up the tent Santiago. Our first night on foreign of rain water dripping from my sodfor the first time since leaving home. soil had been a heady mix ofl lugging den clothes). No risks taken, we ap- Anxiety because of the proximity of bike boxes, failed attempts to obtain pear 3 hours early the next day - the local farmhouse inhabitants ofwhich instructions froma Presidential guard boat arrives 3 hours late! we had no doubt recently passed and on thel location ofa cheap hotel, and a greeted with a tired "Hola!" as we very expensive 4 block taxi ride to a Free camping in this part of Chile is bumped our way along the road that hotel right opposite the bus stop we easy and there are some spectacular had caught my imagination several had got off at: some hours before We spots. After our boat trip, we ride months before - The Carretera Aus- quickly used our first contact to find along improving surfaces through tral, Chile. an Australian and Chilean couple of tracts of untouched Alerce forest and our age offering food, accommoda- picturesque lakes, till north of the Anxiety gave way to surprise and tion, and insights into Chilean life. town of Chaiten, we opt for a 3 day enchantment as we were treated to After being shown town over several beach bash withg great viewsofVolcan fresh hot bread, apples and hot apple later nights, we caught a very romantic Corcovado, dolphins, woodpeckers, strudel, offers to light a fire as Ifum- "Oriental Express" style sleeper train blacknecked swans, nocturnally grazbledwitht thel MSR,andt thenextmorn- to Puerto Montt, the starting point of ing cattle, and easy fishing. Chaiten ing, hard boiled eggs. Such unselfish the Carretera Austral offers our first meeting with an "artigenerosity is hard to beat, but the san", Nicolas, a real mellow Ameriofferings from the families in Lenca After the delights ofLenca, the oldest can who is trying to make a living was indicative of the friendliness we and therefore gnarliest, section of the from wood carving and semi-precious encountered while travelling along CarreteraAustral winds its way along stonejewellery. A common interest in some 1500 km of road in the next 2 the coast before ducking inland, pass- the outdoors leads to us sharing lunch months. ing sheltered.coves. This partofChile after a tour of his studio/bedsit. Anis temperate with predictably high other boat trip awaits but not before a Lenca, a handful ofhouses 40 km SE rainfall in seaboard regions - not meaningful cross-cultural exchange - one kerosene MSR jet for one set of Chile Chico IS the gateway to vast travelling at 70 km/h. We head north handmade dangly earrings. areas of unspoilt lakes, mountains, guessing at what lies south around and the weather shadow effect of the Cochrane, a town nestled at the foot of A short diversion from the Carretera enormous Campo de Heilo Sur ice the 4th biggest permanent ice cap in Austral as we cross over to Chiloe cap, which blessed us with several the world. Island. Memorable for its gaudy (but sunny, calm dayswhileskirtingaround architecturally significant) wooden the internationally shared Lago Gen- Progress is surprisingly fast, a combichurches, fishing villages, rain, crafts, eral Carrera (Lago Buernos Aries in nationofimproved. Iroad surfaces, sunand for us, a Santiago shine, and windfreedays student lugging 2 enorthe only sticking point mous rounds of Chiloe being repetitive snakecheese in her backpack, bite punctures. Parts of telling us ofthe beauty of the road here were only Torres del Painel National completed in the 1980's Park. Our somewhat cirimpressive shows of cular route was in aid of Chilean civil engineercatching a recommended ing cross rivers, a testaboat trip from Puerto ment to Pinochet's vi- Montt to the "Torres" sion. As a result, popugateway town of Puerto lation is sparse with Natales. So near on a many small settlements month later, after a 4 day previously only: accessipleasure cruise on a clevblel by: air or sea. Asyet, erly disguised cargo: ship, much of the scenery is 7 days hiking/tramping untouched, but small around the "Torres" cirtimbermills byt theroadcuit, a cold, drizzly side suggest this may evening on a beach near soon change. Punte. Arenas waiting for penguins to: appear, a 30- We leave the lakeshore plushoursightsccing tour following the Rio of the Argentinian pam- Murga, passing several pas, and other cycling digauchos in big furry versions, we re-enter chaps and traditional Chile to link up with the ponchos, before climb- Carretera Austral. ing out of the valley to entera another watershed. My original plan, spurred This involves a steady on by eager advertising grunt up to the 600m material from a Chilean Yet another flattie for. Andrew! Jo McKenzie Cofre Portezuelo pass one man adventure com- (one of the party insists pany, was to go south as far as the Argentina) A lake of contrasts with on stopping short for the night beremote Villa O'Higgins, the last 200 surface breakers on the Argentinian cause of a severe sugar deficiency). km of which was to involve horse side compared to sheltered aqua blue For the next 30 - 40 km, we pass tracks/routes. Time constraints, tell- coves in Chile. The road from Chile through the eerie aftermath ofa 1991 tale autumn colours, and perhaps in- Chico to where the North-South main eruption of Volcan Hudson. A thick tuition on Jo's part, led us to rejoin road runs was only completed in 1991 carpet of ash covers everything Pinochet'sroadofopportunityate Chile at the cost of some human life as we crushed houses, choked pastures, and Chico. (I later read a Chilean maga- hurtle through narrow blasted pas- some dying trees. In places, the road zine article describing the "hell" expe- sages in therockface, sandwiched be- is soft but generally smooth as it has rienced by a group led on the above tween our bikes and the sides of a only been reopened recently. Several routet bythe "possessed" man whol had local's small stock truck, wewonderif San Sebastians commemorate those sparked my interest in the Carretera we too will become road statistics who lost their lives in the eruption. Austral Photos of chest high river (this was a totally unsolicited lift). crossings, horses carrying gear, and The peaks surrounding the southern The Rio Ibanez takes us east out to near-drownings hinted at the serious and western edges of the lake are Villa Cerro Castillo where we disnature ofthat last 200 km stretch). stunning, butdifficulttocapturewhen cover Chilean cardboard wine, more workings of Operation Raleigh, and de Las Torres". A reasonable sized pink chunks of trout stewed up by Cerro Castillo itself, an impressive lake flanked ont the eastl by spectacular Pete. A most memorable evening is crag dominating thei river valley in late craggy outcrops and to the west the spent eatingbycarb batterylight, Easter afternoon: sun. A1 tail wind helps us up ice/snow capped Cerro Alto Nevado. eggs, Easter cake, and helping Peter ando lovert the 1100m Portezuelol Ibanez, Best move of the day turns out to be decipher someofthe more ambiguous crags of green, purple, and grey dot asking the CONAF (DOC equivalent) lyrics (unprintable) of Frank Zappa the skyline, contrasting with the au- guardaparque (ranger) about camp- songs. tumn hues of trees lining the wide ing at the picnic site. "Peter" (strictly pass. We hit strong headwinds in a Rodrigo to his family) soon offers us A warm farewell from Peter sees us pampas-likecorridor: near Balmaceda, somel lunch,juice, a fishing expedition heading off on another still, fine day SO we hid in a stand of trees for the on the lake, and a roof for the night, following the emerald green Rio night. The terrain to Coyhaique is before turning to the unifying subject Cisnes, through a distinct, carved out extensively farmed and void of trees of music; gorge before our turn-off to head up due to clearing fires lit in the 1950's, and over into Queulat National Park. butt tor make upf fori it1 theroadi is sealed. Peter: You like music? After a steep switchback start, the With great zeal, a veryl large 3 course Me: Yes, very: much (this man has a climb levels off, opening up to reveal lunch is consumed at the oddly named stereo hidden somewhere!?) the snout of small hanging glaciers to "Cafe Samoa". A local gaucho and Peter: You like Genesis? the west. Atthe summit, views of the friend at the next table giggle, point- Me: Well, a bit sort of old (MOR, whole Queulat Range, an enormous ing at us, presumably because of the boring, worn out - but not wishing to catchment area. There are promises rate we demolish ouri meal and endless offend) ahh, they're OK. ofal hairy descent down the romantic supply of bread. Bread in southern Peter: And Peter Frampton, Frank sounding Cuesta Queulat Norte - big Chile usually means locally baked Zappa? signs warn of numerous switchbacks. white rolls, hot if you're lucky. In Great stuff until I puncture Coyhaique we discover at truel bakery, It became apparent the compilation again, anda again, and: lagain, and again! indulge with a vengeance, leaving a tape ofFlying Nun garage bands Ihad I mumble obscenities all the way to NZ silverfern pin for the avid All was probably not Peter's cup of tea. our campsite near the foot of Blacki fan att the "Caja"( (counter). Itis We politely wait 20 minutes before Ventisquero Colgante, a large hang- Easter SO in substitute for hot cross accepting Peter's numerous offers. ing glacier spewing out fountains of buns we buy a very wholesome Xmas dirty coloured melt feeding a hungry Cake. river below. "Hey wait a minute, The road winds up away from Rio Because of rain a short day to Simpson before a drop back down I know you!" Puyuhuapi, a small Germanic-influthrough a tunnel to rejoin the river in enced town, renowned for its small a very picturesque valley. The river carpet factory sitting at the end of a valley opens out bringing us to the Five o'clock finds us out on the lake, long fiord. To make up for our idlejunction with Riol Manihuales, a spot Peter rowing, spinning yarns about ness we manage in excess of80km of to shelter from heavy showers and past fishing exploits, swapping de- shingle/dirt road the next day through contemplate the end of sealed roads tails about family, jobs, and marital Las Juntas, passing more gauchos, for a while. Wel head north with good status, and a particularly poignant following the voluminous Rio Palena intentions, tailwind assisting, before (attempted) duet of a "Doors" song. and posing for a photo for a Chilean being forced tot toss our bikes on tot the In the first hour no bites, but then cyclist heading south to Puerta back of a hay truck, sharing a ride to amongst the reeds a strong tug and Williams(TierradelFuego) after start- Villa Manihuales with a local driver telltale run of the line. We land a ing inl Peru. (Thei fact that he was able and family. Imposing limestone bal- healthy rainbow trout. We cruise to: set up: a camera tripod in the middle ustrades line the valley, a mixture of back trawling for more, chasing rip- oft the road is some indication of how native Alerce stands and farmland ples left by feeding trout Peter is heavy traffic 1S in these parts). cover the valley floor. very excited, we are very cold! A lone cyclist pulls up and starts setting up Our last stretch on the Carretera Aus- Easter Friday is promising weather- camp. In reply to Jo's Southland tral is not SO pleasant. Rain set in and wise, ultimately surpassing all expec- greeting, a strong Canadian (thank bike problems rear their ugly heads tations. Now on the true Carretera God it's not another bloody German!) again. Turning off" "Ruta 5", the road Austral - Coyhaique to Villa Mani- accent - "Hey wait a minute, I know deteriorates and an otherwise enjoyhuales a detouri in preferencetos sealed you!" We'd met Sean momentarily in able descent tothe scenic Lago Yelcho roads - a wide river valley with short Puerto Montt, he soon joins us at is marred by a broken chain and then trips upside valleys brings ust to' "Lago Pete's place salivating over beautiful a broken chain breaker. Then Jo's sticky gear changer decides enough is Los Alerces National Park, the ski gleefully embracing the large enough, reducing her 21 speed to a 3 resort town of El Bolson, through "Bienviendos a Chile" sign on the speed. We are trying to reach "wild"'appletrevalleys, another Lake border. The evening does however Futaleufu, a small border town in the District comprising Lago Guillermo improveafter coasting, scooting, and rivervalley ofthe samenamethati runs andLagoMascardi, andthel Bariloche. being towed to the Chilean customs through to Argentina. Progress is Dwarfed by the popular Catedral control. The rain has really set in and slow up through tight gorges cut by Range, this expensive weetown offers after border formalities our gear (but Rio Futaleufu, signs of snow on sur- great chocolate window shopping and thankfully not us, as Jo has pockets full of contraband apples) is lightly frisked for fruit EL Ilaguey and veg by the SAG (i.e. ENSO SURTIDO MAF) man. We chat with OIDIANA FINAA the SAG man sheltering fromheavyrain heshares some of the days takings with us. But best ofall, he recommends a local CONAF residence whose occupants welcome strangers on cold, miserable nights such as these. Our lasting memory of cycling in Chile is being safely ensconced in a hand built wooden cabin, huddingaroundawoodbumer crafted out ofa 40 gallon "Pooh' " making his presence smelt in Mexico Jo. McKenzie drum, and sinking into a luxurious soft bed, thick rounding tops, freshly bulldozed road a chance to rebuild rear wheels that wovenblanketspressing down. Break- (nice and soft!), Jo stops intermit- are falling apart. The weather is great fast is a seemingly endless supply of tently to manually change gears, my as we head around the vast Lago made-on-the-spot fried bread with chain creaks and groans in protest, my Nahuel Huapi before heading west honey and jam. middle chain-ring unusable. along its northern shores towards Chile. It is cold - perhaps the red and Anticura was the name ofthis charm- You may think (or wish) the story gold leaves on thet trees, white frost on ing wee spot and we, along with ends here two defeated Tongue & the bikes in the morning, and snow other passers-by, left with fond Meats burdened with rapidly deterio- dustings on the tops are trying to tell "Memories of Anticura", just a typirating bikes. But the bikes and our- us something. cal taste of Chilean hospitality. selves manage to last another 9 days before returning to Chilean soil over My last 5 kms ofbiking in Argentina the 1300m Puyehue Pass. During this are not the most inspiring My chain Punters: time, Argentina redeems itself with does the decent thing, breaking know- Andrew McLellan (AKA Pooh) some stunning scenery, weather, and ing that my chaintool is now unusable. Jo McKenzie (AKA Christopher sunsets. Our route takes us through I push uphill in gloomier rain before Robin)