Mexico's Copper Canyon by Mountain Bike

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MEXICO'S COPPER CANYON BY MTB Stephen Patience Wanting to seek adventure andexplorenewandexciting places, I decided to leave capital city suburbia for the USA to sample some mountain biking. Mexico's Copper Canyon seemed like aninteresting placeto visit at US$395 for a partially supportedlpannier)8daytrip. nter Ray Molina, the Isoled operatorandguide with Remolino Excursions based near El Paso, Texas who has been guiding mountain bike trips into Mexico since 1989. Ray answeredmypre-tripqueries with "Yes, I can pick you up fromt thebus depot" and "Yes, you can: store what you don't need with me". He told me that there would be just the Mexican children at Batopilas, Copper Canyon Stephen Patience two of US on the trip which seemed more personal SO I was happy. Rayt told met that he enjoys Paso over the US - Mexico border to bother you if you don't annoy it". I pannier trips overl his vehicle supported Juarez. Although webikedfors some30 avoided riding over it and preferredi not trips which, to him, are a little more km, most of the 700 km journey to the to take a closer look. The paved road regimented. Igottoknowhimquitewell startingpointinthetownofCreelwasby endedafter. 58 km, and1 121 kmt further on overthenextweekandhesoonbecame bus. We arrived at Margarita's Hotel we camped on aTarahumara trail near agoodfriend. Hiseasygoingpersonality late in the evening and were fortunate the town of Samachique. Our made him an ideal biking companion enough to occupy the last two beds in exhausting ride finished, we ate a well and guide. I was the gringo while he the bunk room. We went out to look for deservedmeal accompaniedbytorillas. spoke the lingo. a beer to wind down after the long bus ride, onlyto find the whole town closed. I started the next day like most other The Copper Canyon, one of seven peoplel by putting on my socks. Ihadn't canyons, is known locally as the After a cooked Mexican breakfast, we quite put my left sock on my foot when Barranca del Cobre, and is located in assembled our bikes and purchased noticed a scorpion about 1 inch long, the Sierra Madre Mountains of Mexico. someprovisions forourj journeyinto the sitting there. Luckily, remain unbitten. Some of the mountain peaks are snow canyon. We also stoppedtol buy some It seemed to me that Mexico is fraught covered in winter, yet on the canyon Corona but the woman in the store with danger; first the spider, now the floor a subtropical climate exists, refused to sell it to US at this early time scorpion. Wel began at a leisurelyhour providing many fruits otherwise not ofthe day. Sher was somewhat nervous with a descent of 5000 ft to the Rio available to the local Mexicans and and told Rayt that it was difficult, as she Batopilas. We hadn't gone far when semi-nomadicTarahumaralndianswho pointed to the Police Station directly Ray: suggested that we check our bikes live there. These people are famed for across the road. before the descent; just as well, as their long distance running and some foundabrokenspoke. Thereweremany livel in dwellings built into the side ofthe After cycling some distance, Inoticed a switchbacks as we made our descent canyon walls. Gold, silver, and copper largeblackspidermakingitswayacross and halfway down, we stopped to talk were once minedi heret from as early as the road ahead of me. I could not to a Tarahumara woman who makes the 1600s. believer my eyes; it was bigger than any dolls to sell to passing gringos. At the spider I had ever seen. Ray confirmed bottom we stopped and I noticed that Our first day began by cycling from El that it was a Tarantula. guess it won't my front rim was hot to touch from TRAMPING & MOUNTAINEERING constant use of the brakes. I've heard theprocessofrestoration. Afterviewing about 5.30am, this meant an early start manyhorror stories off Mexicans driving thisinterestingchurchandtalkingtothe forus. Wehad almost reachedtheroad on this road, some of whom have locals, we cycledbackto Batopilas. Ray where the bus passes but were survived to tell the tale and some who did not recommend further travel from disappointedto seei it go on by. Wehad haven't. Wel later stopped at the small here over a pass into another canyon, missedit. It was still darkl butt there was town of La Bufa and visited some of especially at this time of year. Because apossibilityofstoppinge gapassingtruck. Raysex-patriotuSfriends wholive there. of the warm canyon climate, the "bad After an hour of waiting, we decided to La Bufa was once an American gold hombres" of that area jealously guard cycle the hill instead, hoping to meet a mining town of about 4000 people. their marijuana crop and have a policy vehiclecomingup. Theconditionswere Most of the town now rests on mine of asking questions later. great with the still morning air, and the tailings. Wesat aroundthefire, toasting sun just about to rise. Two and a half bagels and telling stories late into the Once back at Batopilas, we met up with hours and ten miles later, we reached evening. Theconversationwasfollowed Ray's friends from La Bufa who were in thetophavingclimbed: switchback after by Sotol chasers, a cactus derived drink town getting supplies. We didnotfancy switchback. It was then that we were that doesn'tl leave you with ahangover. ourcyclejourneybackoutofthecanyon offeredaride backt to Creel in therear of andwere offeredaridewhichwegladly a large truck loaded with empty gas Fresh mango and Mexican coffee kick- accepted. While we waitedfort the ride, cylinders. putthehorror storythoughts started our day. We had slept in the Ray showed me the remains of the behind me and relished the scenery bodega and the small buildings here former castle and silver refinery built ahead. We arrived at Creel, checked were once a part of the old La Bufa about 1880 for Alexander Shepherd, a intoMargarita's, and enjoyed a meal of Hotel. Rumour has it that when the burritos and cokes. Our morning ride hotelwasfull. andtheproprietor spotted out ofthe canyonl had been tiring so we gringos coming down into the canyon, plannedalocal ride on thet trails around he wouldi immediately build an add-on "I guess it Creel. A late afternoon ride of 13 km roomt tot thel hotel. Before 1982, theroad offeredmanytypesofterrain, from single onlywent ast far ast thel hotel before they won 't bother track to slick rock mounds. Ray has a continuedi it on to the alcohol-free town natural ability att technical ridingandout of Batopilas, which is where we were don 't performed me here. We had an early headed. I'm told alcohol-free you it's if you night knowing that the next day would because of some Mexicans who get be a long bus journey back to El Paso. trigger-happy, especially after a few annoy it" drinks, butify youl hunthardenough, you Breakfast at Margarita's on our last day can find a cold Corona or Tecate. was memorable. Thel bus left at 1. .30pm corrupt politician and the last governor so exploring thelocal trails occupiedthe We headed further into the canyon of Washington DC who was forced out morning. Most of the single tracks here where we had a swim in the Rio of the US. Local Tarahumara Indians are Tarahumara foot trails. Note, there Batopilas. The temperature was much built this castle and also carried are no set rules on the use of mountain hotter down at the edge of town. We Shepherd's dismantled Model T Ford bikes here, DOC! Just courtesy. We headed into an old mine shaft and the and a grand piano along a foot track returned to Creel and caught the bus to heat began to intensify as we reached into Batopilas. Juarez, arriving about midnight. our turn-around point, 2.4 km into the dark and damp depths oft fthe shaft. We With their shopping done, we seated We finished our ride with a few beers disturbed many off thel bats and chased ourselves in the back of Ray's friends' about 12.30am at a bar known as them out into the blinding brightness of pickupt truckt for the ridel backtol LaBufa. Wildhare' 'S Booze & Adventureslocated day. After tasting thel local cuisine, the It amazed me how good the view was on El Paso's lower west side, which as remainder of the evening was spent from ther rear ofthe truck andlwas able the drink coaster stated, is conveniently inspecting the art deco architecture of to appreciate it more than when L rode located halfway between Warsaw, Batopilas and exchanging stories with it two days previously. We sat around Poland, and the Fiji Islands. other gringos in the canyon. the fire that evening and talked of life's experiences. We also sampled another Ray made an excellent guide (not thatl The small town of Satevo is situated 8 cactus drink known asl Lechugilla which haveusedmanytocomparehimto). He km down the canyon from Batopilas I'm sure would suffice as primus fuel, as lookedaftermypersonalwelfarebefore, where an old. Jesuit mission is located. Ray even set fire to some of it. during, and after the trip and made it a We cycledi there and viewed a 400 year memorable experience for me. Take old church which was built when the We didn't plan to ride out of the canyon Ray's advice from his brochure which Spanish arrived in Satevo. Some off the next day. As thel bus which services this states; "Healthy open-minded dattitudes graves of the former priests are set area about once a week would pass aregreatly appreciated"; apre-requisite within thet floor ofthe church which isin through La Bufa on this particular day for the trip. TRAMPING & MOUNTAINEERING