Exploring the Seaward Kaikoura Range

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Exploring the Seaward Kaikoura Range Peggy Christianson Hapuku Falls Harry Smith We were ten: Allen Higgins (leader), There was a good half hour of made of chocolate chip cookies, Sue Higgins, Prakash Jeram, Shane explaining, surmising, debating, voting, cream, and a super-special, secret, Connolly, Harry Smith, Jo McKenzie, andfinalvoting. Bythist time, the driving "softening agent". Now, when Shane Tony Reeve, Mark Cranshaw, Matthew sleet was upon US. The final vote was got to the dessert, or rather when the Craig, and me. Jim, the friendly chap 4Y2 to go up, and 4V2 to go on to the dessert got to him, he became softer from Blenheim Taxis drove US as far as hut, with Allen abstaining from voting. than hot butter. The day had been a his rig could go and left US beside the If we were to start the ascent it would bit much for him, I reckon. Hapuku River. In case of rain, Harry be a long, hard slog up the steep recommended sleeping under the mountainside, which was snow- The weather was clearing and the stars bridge a few kilometres back (he had covered to near-river level, and once shone that night. The morning was beent there before ini therain andfound on top it was likely to be exposed, with mild and comfortable and we were itag good spot). But we, were willing to no: sheltering bush available. (, for one, away again by 8:00am. riski it ands snuggled our alpine tents into had not been SO cold since Lewis Pass thel bush. a year and a half ago, and had no It was a short distance along the river desirewhatsoever to gain any altitude.) with a few crossings. Then up a steep, her next morning we were away We had our lunch and brew and the grassy slope, up to the saddle, up to before 8:00am, wandering up 4Y2 who wanted to go to the hut the Middle Ridge, and up to the Main the milkyr riveri in ag gentle mist. Themist overpowered the others. We boldly Range, heading toward Te ao Whekere turned to drizzle and then to a gentle ventured on to where probably no other (8,516ft). It was a glorious day and as but penetrating rain. The water was Tongue & Meat has ever gone before. we gained some height our efforts cold and swift. Our clever leader had were well-rewarded by the views. To planned both a fair and foul weather You would have to be watching out for the south was Banks Peninsula andi the route and wel reached thet turningp point Barrett's Hut as it is not visiblet from the snowcovered fringes of the Southern at around noon. Had it been a clear river. It was more of a glorified bivvy Alps; closer at hand was the Kaikoura day, we would have undoubtedly left than a hut, extremely quaint and Peninsula; to the north was the island the river and headed up to Surveyor charming, and most likely rat-infested. from whence we had come; stretching Ridge to make our base campt to climb Camping by the river was pleasant. out beyond everything into infinitywas Manakau (8,562ft), the highest Prakash and Mark: slept finei in thel hut, thel bright blue sea; looking inland were mountain in the Seaward Kaikouras, they: said. Wel had a good bonfire that rocky, jagged ridges which in the the next day. The second option was night and got dry and warm. Jo was distance gave way to snow. to camp on the river where we were in charge of menus and put a few of and head up the next day; the third usto work chopping vegest for the curry, In the morning we were making good option was to check out a humble hut while she tended to the dessert. I do time. Life was more than generous around a few bends of the river. not know what it was called. It was with US as we: skipped along. So far so TRAMPING & MOUNTAINEERING good. Then whammo! We hit climbing was spent in one giant run. stunning. Our glissading trails from the crumbling rock. Pinnacle after Some, like Harry and Jo, bum-slid, day before shone on the saddle where crumbling pinnacle tried our patience while Tony partially succeededi int riding we had come down. There were and concentration. Sue was moving his pack, and others did what worked snowcovered peaks, and extremely mountains and the Department of best for them. pleasant grazing landi fort ther multitude Survey and Land Information will now of sheep. Way below were the farm have to review the area. Too bad for Eventually we camet tot thel Happy Valley buildings. Itwas all downhill from here her knee though, which goti in the way Stream. (Note, if you want to climb Te and the going was easy. (buthas sincer recovered). Rockfall from aol Whekere, iti isl best to approach from those overhead was a hazard. Into the mighty Wharekiri Fortunately there were no Stream we didv venture, again casualties. the colour of trim milk. The . current was swift andl hard: so Then came the dreadful scree. wej joinedin twos andi threes, It was steep and always one especially: since you couldnot step forward and two steps see what was beneath the back. Now I considered white surface was the cursing. We thought the snow bottom 6 inches deep or 6 mightbe easier going, soi in that feet? We worked our way direction we headed. But the down the river without snow proved even more incident. painstaking, as each step had tol bel kicked out thanks. Jo. So Then came the gorge. There back to the scree; it was steep. was no way up and around it. Ifwe could not pass it we At last, finally up on the snowy would have to backtrack tops and a pause to enjoy the hours and would not reach view. I concentrated on Picton in time. Allen, Chief finishing my second roll of River Guide Tony, and Tall ginger nuts no time for lunch Man Harry spent nearly half today. Water was finished so it an hour exploring and was handfuls of melt-in-theconsidering. If we passed mouth snow. this obstacle, what others lay ahead? Tall Man Harry We made our way along, still ventured across, keeping his heading towards Te ao beard but not much else dry. Whekere and life was good He explored around a few again; singing along, not a more corners and returned cloud in the sky (later some of Kite flying Harry. Smith with the OK sign. So we US suffered the sunburn of saddled up and two by two those too foolish to take precautions). this direction rather than the way we made our way through the gorge. First came in.) The sun was low and have there was a deep, rushing bit to cross; When we got to the saddle by Te ao to: sayi it was a comfort to have myt feet then a deeper pool to get through; Whekere we had an excellent view of back in the river, knowing that winter Shane floated through the deeper bit. thel Inland Range including Tapi, where camping would have to wait for the Tararuas were spending their another trip. After that we were wet but that was holiday. Aside from the ten of US, the the end of the excitement. Once past Seaward Range appeared to be Around 6:00pm we found a pleasant, the gorge we were backi in the sun and sparsely populated. flattish spot and called it home. We some time around 12:30pm we got ourselves fed and watered, and stopped for awholel hour'slunch. Allen Harry was keen to set up camp, do the tucked into our pits (with many big built a fire. It proved to be not much mountain, and be off down the slope lumps underneath). We were mostly further till we saw Driver Jim waiting in the morning. He was alone in that tuckered out. along the bank by a farm by Middle madness. The rest of US feared we Hill. Even at the end of the trip Harry were too frail to withstand the harsh Monday, Labour Day, we were away could not get everything properly into conditions of the mountainside, aside shortly after 7:00am. It was a big day his pack, which you would think had from Allen, who was concerned we ahead of US and we needed to make expired years ago. It ist being buried at would never make it out on time and good time. We followed the river a Stonewall Basin soon, Harry promises. would be stuck in Picton. short distance but it was slow going, Allen keeps on claiming to be retired SO Allen had a bright idea to take a from tramping, but I have my doubts. Soi it was thel big glissade: down, down, shortcut. We cut up thes steep bank and He has got a number of good years down. All that vertical distance wehad there we found a vehicle track, a fast lefti inl him, and at any rate would haye covered in nearly an entire day of and easy way to go. Views were to wear out all his gear first. TRAMPING & MOUNTAINEERING