New Year in Abel Tasman National Park

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New Year in Abel Tasman National Park Marilyn Duffy Landing in surf, Tonga Bay Pat Duffy t seemed like such a good idea in tents and cooked under the shelter of tiful sheltered tidal estuary and interthe middle of winter, this sea kay- a fly. The first and last rain of the trip esting beach. Further north we decided aking lark. Months later the real- fell that evening, and it was not until to camp at a little beach with its own ity of sitting on dry land at the kayak our return to civilisation that we rea- private lagoon and sheltered tent sites. rental yard fighting to fit 5 days' gear lised how fortunate we had been, as Although less than a kilometre from into our boats we were not SO sure. many trampers had their "Big Trips" thel heavily populated Bark Bay we saw The packing and briefing took an en- seriously affected byadverse weather. few humans and enjoyed swimming tire morning! Eventually the flotilla in our own tepid pool. We walked to made it to water and we were all Day two dawned bright, clear and Bark Bay to check out the hut and passed as proficient by the guide. calm; a great day to be in the Park, campsite; there were 42 tents in the especially afloat. Packing was easier, camping area, with more trampers At last the adventure could begin. We but still seemed to take an age. Even- arriving bythe minute. Our tiny camppaddled a short distance to land at tually we were afloat, and paddled site looked blissful by comparison. Coquille Bay, a tiny beach only acces- over the calm water to The Anchorsible by water. We decided on a lunch age. Here we checked out some fabu- Day three dawned clear and calm. Rebreak and immediately began to ap- lous holiday homes, craft of all de- luctantly we left our idyllic spot and preciate the benefits of sea kayak- scriptions and budgets, and crowds of paddled further north, past Bark Bay ing VS tramping-we had unlimited other Park users. We found a quiet to Mosquito Bay. A quick look confuel for brewing and cooking, and car- spot away from the throng and made vinced us we should comel back when ried all kinds of bulky, heavy food and ourselves at home for a swim and the tide was higher for more exploraliquid which would normally be taboo. nibble stop. Later we found out it was tion. Relentlessly the flotilla paddled a privately owned area, hence thel lack on; now thoroughly proficient seafar- The weather had been worsening dur- of tourists. Ooops! The flotilla mi- ers, we enjoyed manoeuvring amongst ing the morning and our voyage took grated north, leaving no cove un- the reefs of Foul Point. Crystal clear, us into an exposed area. We alternated checked; we explored Torrent Bay, calm water gave us an excellent view between battling huge seas and shel- startling some scantily clad natives of the myriad of marine life in the tered inland waterways as we checked with our stealthy approach by sea. Tonga Island Marine Reserve. out campsites, looking for the least They's shouldn'thavel been using shamcrowded. Watering Cove was our poo in the river anyway! Sandfly Bay We made a landing on the golden home for the evening and we put up caught our imagination with its beau- sands of Arch Point, which must be TRAMPING & MOUNTAINEERING 1996 one of the best playgrounds on earth We were visited by Don that evening, Further on at Abel Head we came with its towering arches of sandstone, from his base at Awaroa, a 30-minute across some seals who seemed to be caves, jumbles of rocks and secret walk away. We arranged for him to very happy to see us. They were patches of perfect sand framed by paddle a kayak around the next morn- young, sleek, playful, bold and an ensheer cliffs and bush on one side and ing as Pat's wrist was swollen and chanting sight to see swimming un- Tasman Bay on the other. Not quite so inflamed from paddling. der and around our kayaks. By this perfect when we found natives' footstage in the trip we had seen someprints-someonel hadi beaten us there. Day four dawned clear, bright and thing of every type of wildlife decalm. We set off for Awaroa, a short scribed on our waterproof maps, plus Next landing was at Tonga Quarry paddle away. By now we were thor- some amazing jelly fish, anemones, where we marvelled at the marble oughly seasoned paddlers, and en- starfish and seaweed. The clarity oft fthe quarry and the sheer ingenuity needed joyed exploring new waters. water revealed the wonderful colours to cut and carry marble out of the area. in the rocks and sealife; we felt fortu- As it was still barely midday we de- Shag Harbour had been described to nate indeed to be able to visit such a cided to carry on to Onetahuti, a short us as "must see", So we stopped to place. paddle north where we unloaded and explore, despite the tide being quite set up camp. After eating our way wrong. An opening of 20m was re- Next stop Awaroa, where we met up through more rations we set out for duced to 2m byl low tide, and we were with the rest of our families, who had the tramping equivalent ofa day walk. been staying at the backpacker's With kayaks lightened and cameras at .wescrambled lodge. It was New Year's Eve, and the the ready, we paddled out to Tonga crowds were gathering for the celebra- Island to visit the seals. There were on to find a tions. We drank and ate and drank to seals of every size, gender and genwonderful hidden the sounds of a delightful Irish band eration. Youngsters frolicked around as the sun went down and the adjaus, showing off their swimming skills; harbour, full of cent swamp and bush came to life. adolescents stared; and grumpy old secret coves and There were several hundred revellers; men (or women) coughed and barked the trampers and kayakers being obat us when we paddled too close. rockyl hideouts... vious by their casual rumpled look, bach owners and boaties being posi- After circumnavigating Tonga Island soon forced to abandon ship and ex- tively well-groomed by contrast. When the delights of Mosquito Bay beck- ploreont foot. Barnacles, mussels, rock the rollicking Irish music was replaced oned. The incoming tide brought the oysters and mud made walking tricky, by a band of no particular note our mudflats back to life as we drifted but we scrambled on to find a won- tired group's celebration moved back along passing wading birds at close derful hidden harbour, full of secret to the backpacker's lodge for a private quarters, being laughed at by tuis in coves and rocky hideouts, totally sur- party which barely lasted to see in the overhanging rata. A waterfall hid- rounded by beautiful bush, complete 1996. den byl huge overhanging trees offered with fully flowering rata the possums as secret place to hide, though it is dif- hadn't found. No shags in sight, but Day five dawned bright, clear and ficult to conceal a bright yellow craft we could see and smell where they calm, just for something different. This over four metres long! Some lucky had been. We played pirates and gen- was our bonus day, the free one. We people had moored their boats in the erally intimidated the wildlife until we packed (a much easier task minus four lagoon and others were camping. With remembered our kayaks werel beached days' rations) and paddled back to water access only, this must be one of on a tiny tidal beach, and the tide was Onetahuti, where kayaks and humans the best locations in the Park. The tide definitely coming in. No problem, they were to be collected by water taxi and went out a long way though, a disad- were still there, but reversing out was taken back to Marahau. vantage unless you arrive and leave on something only the most skilled padhigh tide. dler could achieve. The mothership It was the end of an adventure for our seemed to have developed a broken flotilla. We had journeyed through We swam and played with the locals, link between its power source and its pounding rock strewn seas to flatcalm who had all kinds of water and sand steering. beaches of glorious golden sand, setoys. Very friendly they were, and ofcret caves, hidden estuaries and coves, fered helpful suggestions when we Yet more natural wonders were in we had spotted a wonderful array of buried Woody in the sand; but rather store. The aptly named Cottage Loaf wildlife, viewed coastal bush ofbreaththan spoil a nice beach we dug him Rock towered over us as we circum- taking beauty and marvelled at the fasupandl headed back to Onetahuti. That navigated it and wondered who had cinating geology of the area, all with campsite was notable for its range of gone to the effort of building the cairn friends whose main mission was enhuman life. The many variations on on top. The rounded sleek sides must joyment. camping and tramping gear made for have posed a challenge to someone some interesting people-watching. in the past, and the sizeable pile of The punters were: Andrew (Woody) Herethee expression "happy tents" was rocks did not get there by itself. Only McColgan, Jo Thomson, Malinda coined (for a definition use your imagi- the shags and gulls knew, and they Goodhue, Pat Duffy, Alastair Booth and nation!) were not telling. Marilyn Duffy (scribe). TRAMPING & MOUNTAINEERING 1996