Sunshine, Storms and Daisies

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Sunshine, Storms and Daisies Claire Goldsworthy rabbit darted frantically for the - safety of the scrub at the side of the road, avoiding the Sierra's wheels by a hair's breadth. I cursed, keen to help reduce Otago's rabbit numbers. A warm breeze ruffled the surface of the lake as we bumped along the dirt road to thel Hunter Valley Station. Our intention was to mountain bike as far up the Hunter Valley as possible using the 4WD roadi initially, and further on, the farm tracks. Camping is prohibited on thes station landi but accommodation is available at a small cost in several huts in the valley. The road followed the shore through pockets of beech forest, undulating gently. Reaching the first ford wel hesi- Lake Hawea and the Hunter Valley Gary Goldsworthy tated briefly, then launched into the water, a frigid wave sweeping over our feet. Much of the water was probably swiftly disappearing behind a dark, The rain was falling with persistence snowmelt, judging by thel heavy cloak moist cloud. The sun was still shining now. and we were soon soaked. "Once of snow the surrounding peaks were as we stopped among the sheep pooh you're wet, you don't get any wetter," still wearing. This area had received a for lunch, but the cloud was advanc- mumbled through the drops. Not good dusting of snow on Christmas ing menacingly down the valley. Soak- much consolation when you can Eve, and another storm was brewing. ing up the last of the rays before the barely seet through thej pelting rain, and The wind had risen, and the sky was ugly mass of northwest cloud engulfed the stuff splashing up into your face now a threatening grey. The lake, no us, we finished lunch and moved on. off your bike wheels has a decidedly longer a gentle blue, was a cold and poohey pong! uninviting green, and the white caps There are a number of baches along performed an intricate and feverish the 4WD road and many of thei inhab- Little Boundary Hut appeared ahead dance as the nor'wester raced down itants called out friendly greetings. We in a paddock of daisies. We examined the valley. didn't stop, however, as the sun had the hut as a possibility for an overnight now been obliterated and our desti- stay but decided to ride the extra kilo- Lake Hawea is flanked on two sides nation was still some distance away. metre to Boundary Hut. Our efforts byimpressive mountains rising steeply werewell-rewarded: as we chugged up in a majestic vigil. Scattered trees stick A gnarly downhill brought us to a a grassy track to a large hut set in a eerily out of the lake in places, stark screeching halt at the head of Lake paddock with great views (evenin this testimony to the drowning of a valley Hawea. Bouncing wildly over the weather) over the river, up the valley, some years previously to create the rocks, the 4WD road ended abruptly and down to the lake in the distance. hydro lake we now know as Lake and we found ourselves on a muddy Superb! This would do us just fine. Hawea-the price of advancement. farm track. A quick check of the map Another heavy shower sent us scurryconfirmed that we were still some dis- ing inside. Winding and twisting ahead, the road tance from Boundary Hut, and we set began to climb steeply. We rounded a off as the advancing cloud dumped its Boundary Hut is full of character. A bend to see a Landrover approaching. load on us. large fireplace had obviously seen It turned out to be the Station owners many a blaze and the sash windows and they stopped for a friendly chat. The cattle on this station are obviously leti in plenty ofl light. An awesome col- "The top is just around the next cor- accustomed to people. They eyed us lection of National Geographics threatner," I they assured us. We nodded with bored nonchalance, shuffling ened to buckle the flimsy bookcase wisely; we'd heard that one before! slowly out of the way. The views we they occupied. The hut sleeps 10 in Several corners later the road levelled had been anticipating were annoyingly two bunkrooms SO we unpacked our off and we were afforded great views absent, but we hoped their shyness gear and settled down in the lounge of thel head of thel lake and the Hunter would wear off during our stay in the chairs in front of the fire with a stack Valley beyond, which was by now valley. of magazines. This is the life! TRAMPING & MOUNTAINEERING 1996

We were treated to a spectacular storm during the evening. Loud claps of thunder bounced off the surrounding mountains and the lightening filled the leaden sky. Torrential downpours raced down the valley with monotonous regularity, but we were warm and dry in our little sanctuary. The rain continued to pound the iron roof throughout ther night but as dawn approached the sky cleared and a glorious sunrise beckoned us from our pits. Breakfast in the sun on the veranda was a great way to start the day and we took our time, enjoying the views of the rugged, snowcapped peaks towering above the valley. The Hunter River didn'ta tappear to be up as a result of the rain, but a short time later we watched with Boundary Hut, Hunter Valley Claire Goldsworthy surprise as the river rose to a milky, raging torrent, and continued The river was still up and discoloured Unable to hide his annoyance, he to rise. and as we reached the farthest point made it plain to us that he expected possible to cycle to, we ditched the us to pack up and move to Little The valley sparkled with the freshness idea of crossing the river which was Boundary Hut, back down river, as he of recent rain as we set off along the raging in hard against the bluffs. I had no wish to share thel hut. We were grassy farm track. We were looking founda a nice spot in the suna and settled flabbergasted by his attitude and had forward to spending a day exploring down for a spot of sunbathing and no intention whatsoever of giving in this beautiful valley and the warm, sandfly-killing while Gary continued to this unpleasant man's petulant desunny day was a bonus. The peaks at on foot to Ferguson Hut, a short dis- mands. Since possession is ninethe head of the valley were impres- tance up river. tenths of the law, we told him with a sive, and we ambled along, stopping smile that wel had no intention ofr movregularly. Too soonl he was back and wej pedalled ing. After a few more thickly accented back down the valley making very comments, he turned abruptly and Ferguson Hut, a good 20kms up the quick progress. The day was still sunny strode back to his ute. We gave them valley, was our destination and appar- butt by now there was a stiff wind blow- a wave as they drove off and sat in ently as far as it's possible to moun- ing. We spent the rest of the afternoon stunned disbelief as the peace returned tain bike to. The sidestreams provided relaxing in thel lounge chairs in the sun to the valley. an interesting diversion; several were with a stack of National Geographics. almost uncrossable, but with some Itwouldi have been idyllic but the sand- The sky was clear as we hit the sack care we managed them without any flies were determined to have us for but in the early hours of the morning, problems. The valley looked superb afternoon tea. heavy: showers thundered down upon with the rolling paddocks full of daithe tin roof. The morning brought a sies, and the river snaking its way to- The distant drone of a vehicle shat- bleak, cold day with fresh snow on the wards the distant lake. The cattle tered the peace in the valley and a surrounding peaks, and after a leiwatched us quizzically now, perhaps 4WD doublecab ute came into view, surely breakfast we packed up and not SO accustomed to visitors as their stopping in front ofthe hut. The occu- headed back down the valley towards relations down valley. pants, a man and a woman, climbed clearer skies. The side-streams were out and approached us. Our friendly up but not impossible to cross. Pass- The Hunter has an interesting collec- smiles and waves were not recipro- ing showers engulfed us periodically tion of disusedi farm machinery which cated and we were somewhat taken but a watery sun occasionally brightlooks out of place in such a remote aback when the man inquired in a ened things up. valley. Gary spotted one such item, a thick German accent, "Vot are you rusty, dilapidated tractor, and headed doing here? Vee vere told dere vood By thet time we reached the 4WD road over to checki it out. He moved all the be no-one else in zees hut". We ex- at the head of the lake, the weather levers, looked under the hood, and plained politely that we had the sta- was improving. We cruised the last could eventually resist the urge to sit tion owners' permission to be here, few kilometres, enjoying the views, on it no longer. He climbed aboard- and added that there was plenty of with that contented feeling of a great one old relic on another. room and we didn't mind sharing. trip just completed. B TRAMPING & MOUNTAINEERING 1996