A Winter's Southern Crossing

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A Winter's Southern Crossing Howard Biggs The Southern Crossing must be one of the better known tramps in the Tararuas. For most trampers, a weekend's Southern Crossing is one of the most coveted, both in expectation and accomplishment. This can he doubly: SO for Winter Southerns where al higher level of fitness is required, along with snowcraft skills. hen combined with the unpredictable nature Upon reaching Field Hut and hoping for an 8 o'clock W ofthe Tararua weather, the Southern Crossing start, I was not surprised to find Harry still in the pit. can result in either a great experience or a liv- Nothing unusual here. Eventually, co-ordinated moveing hell for those who undertake it. For these reasons, ment was achieved, and half an hour after my anticipated each attempt at a Southern Crossing is a unique experi- departure time, we prepared for the climb up to Kime. ence requiring good judgement, particularlywith respect By the look of it, some weren't as primed as I would to the weather; safety over recklessness brings no dis- have hoped. Obviously they weren't morning people. grace when turning back. As we reached Table Top we caught our first glimpse of With the thoughts of last year's Winter Southern fixed Bridge Peak among the clouds and wondered where the firmly in my mind, found myself at the Railway Station, snow had gone. Views of the Tararuas mid-week had left contemplating the next two days. The previous year's me with the anticipation of some good snow, but the fine trip went as planned up to the point of gaining the sum- weather which offered such magnificent views had led mit of Mt. Hector. Snow conditions were great, the to a rapid snow-melt! "Anyone want to buy a well-used, weather looked as if it was holding, and everyone excellent condition, ice axe?" "You want to sell yours seemed to be enjoying themselves. But when we re- too? Small world ay!" grouped on the summit, the weather started to deteriorate into a howling gale, becoming extremely cold with We reached the first decent snow as we ascended Bridge whiteout conditions. On top of this, one member of the Peak. By this time the party was well spread out. The party was plainly showing signs of fatigue. Under such snow conditions weren't the best, as testified by the nucircumstances retreat was our only option. merous screams of frustration when punters found themselves crutch-deep in snow. On Bridge Peak, the This year all the signs seemed to be right. Although the snow conditions were at last what we had hoped for. weather forecast was for change and rain, it wasn't due Firm underneath and crispy on top, giving that nice until late Saturday evening time enough for us to crunching sound underfoot. By this time I was well in reach Alpha Hut. And, as Ihad a great bunch of very ex- front of the main party with the goal of having a brew perienced Club members on the trip, I expected no dif- ready for the troops on their arrival at Kime Hut. ficulties on this attempt. While walking from Bridge Peak to Hut Mound, the view Upon reaching the Roaring Meg carpark, we piled out of took my breath away! The Tararuas during winter have the coach and walked the short distance to the Forks. a charm all their own, quite different to summer condi- Once at Parawai Lodge the Easys and Mediums set up tions which tend to belie their ruggedness. Mt. Hector for the night while the Fit trip, minus its leader, carried was under cloud, but I could see the main range and Mt. on to Field Hut. Something about not having experienced Holdsworth. The best view by far is the view over Wellnight tramping was muttered by one, for his reason for ington to the Inland Kaikouras, with the majestic Tapuaenot stopping. Others followed like sheep, while one or o-Uenuku dominating. two desired a morning sleep-in. Or so they hoped. As for me, after twenty-something years of tramping with the With hot water just coming to the boil, the bulk of the Club, I have long since lost the desire for night tramp- party arrived at Kime, a welcome reprieve in a cold wind. ing. Stumbling over roots and into muddy pools due to After a leisurely early lunch, the first of the day as it a lack of light, or walking into the backs of others has turned out, preparations were made for our next objecalways been the norm one way or another. Time to let tive, Mt. Hector. others relish the experience on their own! With the cloud swirling over Field Peak we descended Saturday morning arrived with a 6.15 start. With sleep to the "great saddle", as I call it, which links Field Peak still in my eyes Ihit the track as the morning dawn was tol Mt. Hector. This is one of the most striking features fast approaching warm but cloudy. The climb up to Judd of the Southern Crossing when viewed from Wellington. Ridge was exhilarating and timeless as the forest came We soon found ourselves emerging from a steep climb alive, vibrant with sound, colour and movement. A very onto the summit of Mt Hector, and for some, a first view special time of the day, heralding the promise of an ad- of the Cross as it appeared out of the swirling mist lookventure yet to come. ing like a disembodied spirit. Tramping and Mountaineering 1997

Everyone was in high spirits, despite the cold and lack of views, particularly the At the bottom of Harry's garden... "first timers" undertaking their first Crossing. On leaving the summit we descended the steep ice encrusted "summit rocks" on the southern flank of Hector, which was for some the only time their ice axe was of any use. Heading south, we left the cloud and cold weather behind and emerged on the Beehives in glorious sunshine, thus a second lunch in the sun was called for By this time the cloud had even cleared over Mt. Hector offering panoramic views in all directions. This facilitated the onslaught of a Japanese camera con- Hi vention. With machine-gun rapidity Harmi cameras were firing in all directions, intermixed with the occasional human voice as the only sounds breaking the silence of an otherwise idyllic location. Travel along the ridge from the Beehives to Atkinson and Aston became increasingly tiresome as snow conditions worsened due to the warmth of the afternoon sun. By the time we reached Mt. Alpha, "I don't believe don't believe the conditions were so bad that with it, Ijust it!" nearly every step, one finished in a hole up to one's knees. By the time we reached Alpha Hut in We encountered other parties making their way up the the late afternoon, everyone was happy to see the end Marchant; one doing a reverse crossing and the other a off the snow and looking forward to al hearty meal. By the day trip to Bull Mound. With increasing cloud obscurtime the meal was served and seconds consumed, Harry ing our view of the tops and a rising cold wind, thej prewas into thirds and fourths as food was donated by oth- vious day's fine weather had arrived just when we ers in the hut. Well, Harry's a growing lad! needed it = even if it had resulted in soft snow. We settled in for the evening with a variety of conver- With the weather improving as we wandered down the sations. Anything to everything was covered including Marchant, lunch was finally called for as we emerged metaphysics, much to Harry's dismay. "I require hard, onto thel Marchant burn in glorious sunshine. Though the empirical evidence. No evidence, no credibility. Next wind was still strong and cold, numerous sheltered sites you'll be telling me that there are fairies at the bottom were available and gladly occupied. With the trip nearly of my garden. I Well Harry, I hate to tell you, but... over, conversation drifted to the impending opening of the Hutt catchment as we gazed at the resplendent view Morning arrived windy and cloudy, though clearing. The of Quoin Ridge emerging from the Hutt Forks. New terfront which was expected had arrived and passed us by ritory for all. during the night, heralded by rain and wind. Jeanine, who had spent the night on the veranda, emerged from The final descent to Kaitoke passed as if in a dream as her sleeping bag cover none too damaged from the ex- the troops chatted or were lost within their own private perience. After some discussion the troops decided to thoughts. Tramping trips come and go, but for those who meander down the Marchant at their own pace, the first undertake a successful Southern Crossing, the memory team leaving at 8 am. This left the rest of us some extra may well be cast in stone. And as they gaze on the snowpit time and a leisurely breakfast. The cloud which had covered Tararuas each winter from the comfort of a been obscuring our view of the tops finally moved away, warm Wellington office, they can fondly recall the time revealing the splendour of the morning sun glistening on they were up there. So for those of you who haven't the snow-covered slopes. done a Winter Southern Crossing yet, know of at least nine merry punters who are still singing its praises and By 9.30 the last of the team had departed. Though it had would gladly recommend the trip to all. rained continuously during the night, the track was firm underfoot. This allowed the speedsters within the party Thel MerryPunters were: Jeanine Langvik, Wayne Stevens, some freedom to move as they were chaffing at the bit Andrew Devlin, Nola Urquhart, Nick Wood, Mark Crandue to the previous day's snow slog. shaw, Chris Collyns, Harry Smith and Howard Biggs. Tramping and Mountaineering 1997