In Search of the Elusive Kiwi

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In Search of the Elusive Kiwi Andrew Devlin The Oban house we were staying in was a good introduction to Stewart Island. Even though we didn't have to empty the toilet bucket, we had to use it. Power losses were common too; we experienced a 30-minute power loss while Stewart Island's generators went out. Nevertheless, Stewart Islanders lived up to their hospitable and friendly reputation. ur tramp commenced with a scenic water taxi tired and we eventually left it to itself, but only after each ride to Freshwater Landing. For much of the trip ofthe photographers had taken its picture. Further up the the taxi was skimming over mud flats with less beach a seal rested - lucky for the penguin that it hadn't than half a metre of water below us. come ashore up there! After camp had been established on the banks of a deep Eight people set out eagerly again at nightfall in search brown-coloured river, we climbed Rocky Mountain. The of the elusive kiwi. This time I headed inland to the old mud was amazing it even occurred on uphill homestead and was eventually rewarded as I saw the stretches! From the summit, we had good views of the rear of a kiwi and heard it k-thumping its heavy way! hurnext day's route as well as views of the infamous Hellfire riedly down the path and crashing noisily through the un- Pass and Mt. Anglem, the highest peak on the island. dergrowth to relative safety. No matter how silently pa- With the cold wind continually rushing past us on its way tiently waited on the many kiwi trails, I was to see no northward, we didn't feel inclined to stay up there for more, but I heard plenty of kiwi calling including some long. Once the features on the map had been connected synthetic calls from neighbouring hillocks containing with what we could see, we headed back down the steep other people. Kiwis were calling across the valley, but muddy hill to our campsite. due to darkness, I could see none. The next morning dawned beautiful again. We set off on The next day we headed south along Mason Bay until we our walk to Mason Bay. This is the bay where the kiwis reached a deserted homestead, called Killbride. Although live and are reputed to be easily spotted. Bushes and overgrown, it was a very quiet and picturesque location plants were identified by our two botanical experts; they which made an excellent campsite; the almost black ensured we all saw those delicate purple flowers thatl coloured water, however, was hard to accept as drinkhad never seen prior to visiting Stewart Island. The able. After camp was established we set off down to the birdlife was terrific. Unlike the silent Tararuas, we saw Gutter with the aim of providing a fish supplement to and heard natives, including the boisterous and ram- that night's meal. We saw several playful seals lolling bunctious tui. Their playful activities in the flax bushes about in the water and inquisitively eyeing our progress were entertaining to observe. around the Gutter. The Mason Bay campsite was like a mini village, sO many The waves were breaking impressively out in the open other parties were present. After watching a spectacu- sea, buti it was calm in the little cove near the Gutter. The lar sunset we waited for darkness before venturing out water lovers of us and those who felt the need for a wash kiwi spotting. Being SO far south, it didn't get dark until went for a swim in the "refreshing" water. It was surpris- 11.00 pm. We headed off in pairs in various directions ingly warm, though still not tropical. The seals contin- - all hoping to report on kiwi-spotting success when we ued to play further out and didn't come and play with us, re-grouped later that night. Alas, all saw and heard were though I am sure that they were watching and observother humans, noisy possums and a feral cat. But I did ing our antics. We never managed to catch a fish; howsee kiwi footprints on the sand dunes that was all that ever, we had a most enjoyable afternoon exploring the night's impressions of a kiwi were going to be for me. Gutter. Prak and Abe had spotted a kiwi and even chased the poor bird down the path. Prak, Martin, James, Abe and I planned a day trip the next day over to Doughboy Bay, where I noticed with The next day, carrying light packs, we went for a day interest that the map showed an area of "quicksand". I walk along Mason Bay. It's a gently curving bay that had never seen any quicksand before and was curious stretches for many kilometres andi is bound in the north to see some. The walk up Adams Hill was very muddy by Hellfire Pass and in the South by the Gutter, which and tiring in spite of the hill not being all that high. The is reputed to be a good fishing location. verdant bush was alive with birdlife, but no kiwis. The locals say that kiwis come out during the day on Stewart Our lunch spot was overlooking the tranquil, but cold Island. This is apparently because of the long summer sea. A little blue penguin came ashore looking exhausted days and hence the short summer nights that Stewart and flopped onto the beach. The poor penguin was very Island experiences. Tramping and Mountaineering 1997

" think we go that way" Andrew Devlin When we eventually arrived at the top, we were treated The trip up Mason Bay back to the campsite was the last to an impressive vista of craggy mountains in the east, stretch of a hard and tiring day. It is amazing how long Mason Bay and Hellfire Pass to the north, and Doughboy the beach seems to be when you're tired. Bay to the south. Prakash suggested running through the grassy clumps on the tops but a big surprise in these Being New Year's Eve we had to stay up and see in 1997. grassy clumps was the copious quantities of bog. We I could only cope as long as I remained sitting in one watched Prak run and sink right up to his midriff in dark, place and didn'thave to move too much. In thel hut there peaty Stewart Island bog. Strangely enough, after that were at least two other groups of people and as no two Prak, like the rest of us, skirted around the deceptively watches were synchronised we had two different time deep bogs. zones with associated count downs about 30 seconds apart. We actually sawin two years that evening - 1997 We had lunch at Doughboy Bayin a DOC shelter which and 1997 again. was actually a cave and consisted of wire bunks, lots of black soot, and a bucket to collect the water from drips Fortunately the late night didn't interfere with the trampat the cave entrance. ing intentions for the next day. We had an easy day! back to Freshwater Landing through the now silent kiwi-call- Having not fulfilled my curiosity about quicksand, Iwent ing valleys, lovely peaceful manuka groves, and boisterdown to the beach which the map said contained quick- ous tui flax grounds. sand. Being low tide, Icould go out quite a long way until Ireached the sea, but at thel high tide mark, cautiously That night we heard various sounds, including a kiwi stepped forward. Stories about people getting stuck in somewhere quite close by, and wished that we didn't quicksand and then dying a horrible slow death were at have to return to civilisation the next day. Such tranquilthe fore of my active imagination. Curiosity urged me lity, abundant birdlife and incredible country are so inonward, but the closer I got to the water, the more the spiring. stories took over until I could bear it no more and turned away. I didn't get to encounter or see the quicksand. It Four of us had an early morning start, whilst the remainmust have been SO quick that it got up and ran away. der caught the early morning ferry at high tide. The pace was quite quick as we had a lot of distance to cover that Going up steep and muddy hills was nowhere near as day in order to reach Oban. bad as descending them andi in a surprisingly short time we returned to the top of Adams Hill where we re-en- Stewart Island is an impressive and most worthwhile countered the impressively deep bogs. Prak could not be place to visit. I recommend it and thank my fellow persuaded to sink thigh deep into a bog again, SO no trampers (Abhilash, James, Leanne, Martin, Prak, Sue photographic evidence of the bog's depth exists. and Suzanne) for an enjoyable Christmas holiday. Tramping and Mountaineering 1997