Mt. Cook - A Long Day

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Mt. Cook I ALong Day Mark Ryan I'm sitting outside Plateau Hut at 2,200m. The sun pops out from behind the clouds from time to time and when it does its rays bounce off the snow and ice amphitheatre and land on my face with a scorching intensity. I am almost totally covered with factor-30 sunscreen. The view is breathtaking. I reflect. aturday was a long day, a very long day, and one which will remain in my memory: the day climbed Mt. Cook. Thursday night at midnight Theard a horn beeping outside my Wellington flat. Thel kiwicontingent of Joe, Steve and Tony were all smiles at the door. Chris and I started porting gear to the van. Chris, an old mate of mine from Scotland, had only been in the country a few days. The ferry left at 1.30 am. We found some empty seats and slept. The sun was an hour off Steve climbing Zurbriggens Ridge Joe Fraser when we arrived at Picton. We drove south, stopping briefly in Christchurch; Mt. Cook village was getting mind was working overtime. How long would it take to closer by the minute. At the far end of Lake Tekapo get to the top? What would the climbing conditions be loomed an impressive sight: thet top of Mt. Cookj just ob- like? How technical was the climb? A part of me was scured by some fluffy clouds. Arriving in the village we excited; another part nervous and apprehensive. arranged for a helicopter to take us to our base - Plateau Hut. An hour later we sat beside the heli-pad. We At midnight Joe's alarm went off. Nobody stirred for changed into more suitable clothing ready for our land- some minutes. Chris rose. "Go check the weather outing above the Hochstetter Icefall. side before we all get up," requested Joe. joined Chris outside. The air was still, the sky dark. No moon but lots The flight was short but the views endless. Circling the of stars. Back inside we had a quick breakfast and a cup Grand Plateau we caught the first glimpse of the hut. It of tea and on went the gear harness, boots... had been 17 hours since Joe's horn had blown outside the flat. It had been a long drive. Outside I drove my ice axe into the snow and prepared the rope. Chris and I were going to climb on one rope Entering thel hut we were greeted with a few nods. Itwas and Joe, Steve and Tony on another. Helmets on, torches as if we had walked into a club where we didn't fit in. on, and off we tramped crossing the Grand Plateau to the Some returned from climbs theyf felt at home. At 7 pm bottom of Zurbriggens Ridge. Ita almost felt like a dream. we got the weather forecast and it looked good for the Over my shoulder I could see four dark figures with head next 24 hours. We discussed our options. The prevail- torches scanning the snow underfoot. High summits ing mood was not to pass on a good weather window. towered around us; above them endless stars. Not a We discussed our lack of acclimatisation but decided to breath of wind. I glanced down at my rope yes, my givei it a go worst case, it would be a reconnaissance. prussiks looked OK. We picked our way around crevasses to thel bottom of our route. Nobody spoke. Paus- By 9 pm our packs and climbing gear were ready and we ing, I - gazed at a small hill of snow; a crevasse had hit the sack to try and get 3 hours' sleep. We wanted to cracked it almost in half. Through the gap Iwatched the be out off thel hut by 1 am. I couldn't sleep. Tony snored stars beyond. All was still and calm. What a magical so loudly I could barely hear the snores of Steve. My world. We arrived at the bottom of the climb. Tramping and Mountaineering 1997

There was a difference of opinion between the two ropes Icame to a trickyl looking step. I could not reach over it as to which way to start. Joe, Steve and Tony headed to grab a handhold SO I sunk my ice axes in above the right while Chris and I headed straight up. I led on. The step and tried to get my feet up. Phump! Axes felt solid. angle quickly steepened to 75°, but it looked like it I sorted my feet out and then lifted my right leg aiming backed off a bit further up. "I'Il stick in a belay," = shouted for a higher purchase. An axe slipped. let out a whoop! Chris. "Right-oh!" I stuck in a snow stake, clipped in the Down at the hut this would be a piece of cake. On a third rope and carried on. Sure enough the angle of the slope attempt the axes remained solid and I clambered over slackened to 55°. I conthe step and up another 4 tinued for the full length metres of good ice and of the rope and set up a snow to a belay stance. belay point. Chris fol- Chris followed up making lowed. light work of my crux. Onward and upward, we Down below I saw three picked our way up through torch lights down in a snow and rocks on steep crack. The other guys ground to gain the summit hadn't had much luck ridge. with their route. They could either claw their I could see the summit. way out or go down and Oh, what a flood of emotake our route. With Tony tion. My heart beat hard around there was only and my lungs heaved. one way. With ice axes Heading along the ridge I flying he hacked his way could manage no more up. Chris and I worked than 5 steps before leanon. It didn't look like 6 ing over my axe and panthours to the summit ing. Waves of emotion rocks. Torch light guided flooded over me. After 11 our axes and stake placehours of effort I stood on ment. Underfoot it was the top of Mt. Cook. constant, the odd crack across the face posing It was soon time to return. minor obstacles. No wor- It was a relief to be headries at this time of day. ing down down where breathing would become Down below I could still easier. At the top of the make out the hut, slowly summit rocks we joined shrinking. The hours our ropes and abseiled to drifted by and over my the turn-off for the Linda shoulder a dim blue light The summit ridge Steve Reeve Basin. The abseils where gave way to a burning red straightforward enough. on thel horizon. I focused What was hard was the on the climb and let my surroundings fuel me. What a need to focus, move safely, and avoid delay. We had a sight. Approaching 5 am and the sun was almost show- long way to descend. Our route lay before us down the ing its face. I looked around and peeking at my back was Linda Glacier, pitted with crevasses and bergshrunds. the top of a burning ball firing a brilliant light at the mountains it reached. What a beautiful day to welcome. We cut across beneath the Gun-Barrel. I stared up at the The conditions would now deteriorate with the sunlight. ice cliffs, the source of its ammunition. Thick solid ice Time to move on. Shouldn't be far to the summit rocks smoothed the run for the bullets, but today it was quiet. now! But it's hard to gain an appreciation of scale with- Cutting left above a bergshrund we started down the out a reference object. Two hours later we reached the Linda. Looking around as we descended left us in no summit rocks. We had been on the go for 7 hours. My doubt as to who was in charge: Mother Nature towered breathing was heavy. Even standing still it took time for around. The scene was both beautiful and threatening. the panting to stop. The lack of acclimatisation to the al- Each step brought us back to the hut. The hut titude was taking its toll. felt tired. journey's end - the completion of our summit gambit. Thel hut warmth and al bed. I was utterly shattered, but Chris led the first rock pitch. Above that lay some easy we had made it! Walking into the hut we were greeted ground and - carried on, passing Chris at his belay point. with smiles; we had joined the club. Oh what a day, Chris led out again. Another pitch lay ahead and I con- what a long day. But what a feeling! tinued, placing protection as Iworked steadily upwards. Despite the tiredness, I felt calm in my moves. The sun Punters: Chris Davies, Joe Fraser, Tony Reeve, Steve Reeve, shone intensely. Mark Ryan. Tramping and Mountaineering 1997