Relaxing on Rakiura

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Relaxing on Rakiura Suzanne Lambie The Express reached the shores of Stewart Island and disgorged its occupants. Four bedraggled people disembarked and shook their heads to clear the water out oftheir eyes. It had been a relatively calm crossing but these crazy people had decided to hang off the back off the boat and experience the sea. ur first impression of Stewart Island was thatit's the most wonderful place on earth. Halfmoon Bay was crawling with kaka, kakariki, wekas, tomtits, bellbirds, tuis, wood pigeons. We spent thet first night marvelling at the wildlife, including a trip to see mutton birds and penguins coming in. It was eerie having large birds crashing into the ground at your feet. A late start the next morning saw us on the Rakiura Track full of confidence and anticipation. Dead Man Beach, the first beach, was significant as it was the beginning of a trend: making sand sculptures. James had decided that it was time to express his creativity: by the time we moved on, Dead Man Beach sported a LARGE bottom. On this day the other characters' individuality emerged. Martin, a shooter, was keen to record the trip on film; swimming fanatic Andrew dived into the cold water, emerging 10 minutes later with "that was lovely and refreshing" (meaning: So bloody cold your skin tingles); Leanne, the "group photographer", set out to record everything that was the slightest bit embarrassing; Prakash, our leader, showed how to get the best out of a map; Abhi was the novice, the eater, and the student. Thet first night was spent at Maori Beach, an old sawmill site with bits of old boilers lying about - - perfect for photo opportunities. Leanne caught Andrew sitting on the dunny and Prakash doing his meercat impersonation. The next day we strolled to Magnetic Beach. Prakash had packed some fishing gear. With one limpet for bait the Andrew on dunny and meercat Prakash Suzanne Lambie happyfisher-people settled in for an afternoon's fishing. We caught a spotty (bait) and started fishing in earnest. Low and behold a salmon was the next fish to take the it was unrecognisable. That was the end of success for bait. Whoopee, salmon for dinner; however, as the say- the day as Abhilash had spotted a large mean-looking ing goes "don't count your chickens before they hatch". barracuda prowling the depths. We were too hasty in our excitement; none of us were wearing shoes, and that cunning fish knew it. Before you It was onward and over to North Arm. Christmas Eve could say, "wow look at that salmon, wouldn't that be was spent walking up hill and down dale four times to lovely for dinner, " it had leapt off the wharf without SO reach our campsite. I had missed out on the discussion much as a backward glance leaving a trail of scales un- the night before and was under the impression that it der our socks. It was the one that got away! was a gentle hike over to North Arm. By the time I realised, I was already halfway there, and it didn't seem SO We became disheartened and downcast. Our fine fish bad after that. had slipped through our fingers. All was not lost though. Prakash,upon hearing of our near catch and seeing the We had six days of absolutely perfect weather. The only evidence, decided that we should make way for the ex- time it rained was at night and then it lulled us to sleep. pert. After two minutes of fishing he landed a modest The people on Stewart Island were welcoming and Trumpeter fish which he jumped on with both booted friendly and they appreciate good polite Kiwi custom. A feet. Dinner, yes! Even ifi its poor head was SO squashed wonderful place to visit, to enjoy, to tramp. Tramping and Mountaineering 1997