New Year in Kahurangi

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New Year in Kahurangi A tale of one kakapo, some trout, and a couple of frogs Kirsty Woods The walk in was easy, but wet. We had lunch in Flora Hut then continued on towards the Tablelands. Our friends, who had given us a lift to Flora Saddle, walked with us for another hour and then turned back, leaving us to the rain and our hopes of finding a dry shelter. checked out the rock bivvies en route and fected us?) we decided to head down the spur to the W came across other friends, who were whiling Roaring Lion - 1,200 metres below. away the day on the swinging chair at a small Itwas already mid afternoon when we headed down. bivvy near Gridiron Gulch. There wasn'tmuch space SO We thought we would make it before nightfall and we we continued on to the Tablelands, shrouded in mist were sure that we would find water and a campsite on and drizzle. We found good dry shelter at the rock biv the way down if we needed to stop. At about 4.30 pm, about 30 minutes from Salisbury Lodge. Within an hour, after bashing our way through stunted beech, we came another group of people we knew arrived and we set- across a lovely grassy clearing and dumped our packs tled down to a cosy evening. Over the next week, we to look for water. were planning to head along the Peel Range and onto By this stage, most of the water we were carrying Kakapo Spur, down to the Roaring Lion, up the Karamea had run out. Itwas still about 1,000m to the river below and the Leslie, back onto the Tablelands and out the but we were confident we would find water here. As we way we came in. Our friend Rob and his companions wandered around we noticed three figures walking were planning to take the same route, but in reverse. through the trees nearby. It was Rob and Co., who had Next day was still damp and grey and Itold the oth- come up from the river and were heading for the tops. ers about the great views they were missing. Rob and They told us they had left the Roaring Lion at about 9.00 Co. headed for the Leslie and we aimed for the Peel am and it had taken them longer than they thought to Range. It wasn't long before we passed Don Goodhue get to where we were. We decided it would be sensible and his kids, who were returning from the Cobb Valley. to camp in the clearing, and all six of us continued to After a quick catch-up, we continued to forge our way look for water. We didn't fancy the idea of grinding on on for what was to prove a challenging day's tramp - into the dark. about 112 hours to Balloon Hut. The hut has gas heat- While the area looked quite damp, there was hardly a ing, stoves and foam mattresses SO there wasn't much drop of water to be found. It wasn't long before we cut point in continuing in bad weather. We decided to stay our losses. Rob gave us a spare bottle of water before put for the day and started on our books and tea bags. he and the others continued on their way to the tarns on The decision turned out to be the right one. The fol- the tops. lowing day was fine and it seemed like a good time to As daylight started to fade we still had some way to head for Kakapo Spur, where we hoped to have a cruisy go. We had to keep an eye on the compass but pushed few days on the tops. The travel along the Peel Range on down as quickly as possible. By 9.30 pm we had to was easy until we got nearer to the turnoff to Kakapo get our torches out. We could hear the river but in the Spur. Once you get there, you have to look around for a rush to get down, we were not exactly sure where we way onto the spur and eventually, we decided to aim for were. It was getting difficult to sort out a good route. a grassy notch, which comes out near where the spur We unpacked, threw up the tent and said goodnight to leaves the range. I had been told about a nice place to the morepork sitting in a nearby tree. camp, down off the ridge by a large tarn. By the time we We were stuffed. It was New Year's Eve. There was reached a point where we could look down to the tarn, no point trying to cook we only had 1 cup of water it was getting late sO we decided to camp near a small between the three of us. We crawled into our sleeping pool on top of the ridge. It was up with the tent and out bags and shared the water before drifting into a fitful with the tea bags as we enjoyed the last of the sun. sleep. Itwasn'ts tsuch a bad night really. The sound of the The pool, which must have been created by the re- river revived us next morning and Dale and Peter sprung centr rain, had almost disappeared in the morning. Itwas into action at the prospect of catching a trout. It only fine and calm and we looked forward to a cruisy day. took us an hour or SO to get to a nice campsite beside Kakapo Spur is quite long but travel is easy. We the river, not far from Roaring Lion Hut. couldn't resist stopping to sit in the sun and look at the We spent the morning lazing eating flaked rice amazing views up the Roaring Lion, over to the Garibaldi (late breakfast), drinking brews, eating lunch, and read- Range, and south-east towards Nelson Lakes National ing. It was a beautiful spot and well worth the effort. At Park. We considered staying on the tops for one more some point we paid a short visit to the hut, which was night but for some strange reason (perhaps the heat af- occupied by a couple of Frenchmen who seemed to be Tramping and Mountaineering 1998

KakapoSpur Kirsty Woods in "post New Year's Eve recovery mode" ". Jean was out and at lunchtime we stopped for a snack and a very cold of it. Pierre looked pained. They didn't have a lot to say swim. at that point. Karamea Bend is a spectacular setting but the hut is After setting up camp andi having another snooze, Dale surprisingly dark and smoky. When we arrived, I settled and Peter went off to find the elusive trout. They headed down with the tea bags while Peter and Dale went out in different directions while I settled in with a book. fishing. Just before nightfall I heard heavily accented While Dale was down by the river, she heard a heavily voices. Jean and Pierre appeared out of the dusk. Someaccented voice: "Are you alone?" Jean appeared from one had told them it would take only 4% hours but it out of the trees brandishing his fishing gear. Perhaps he had taken closer to nine. In spite of all that, they seem had learned a few lessons from an English phrase book: to have enjoyed their day and related tales of hanging H How to get the best catch in twenty easy lessons"? over bluffs and scrambling through the bush. Dale made it quite clear that trout were the only catch Next day we took a very relaxed approach. Leslie of the day and walked off. Clearing Huti is only about an hour from Karamea Bend. Before too long, she was back with a trout. Out came We spent most of the morning fishing and sitting in the the primus, the hut frying pan, and a lemon to create a sun and by mid afternoon we decided to move on up to wonderful late afternoon tea. We stayed at our camp- the Tablelands. At the bottom of the climb there is a site, leaving Jean and Pierre to the hut with their large nice campsite, where we lay down for a snooze. We tins of baked beans and assorted fishing gear. didn't commence the climb until about 5.00 pm and We had two more trout for breakfast the next day reached the tops before dusk. This time we had great before packing up to walk to Karamea Bend. We said views of Mt Arthur and back towards the Leslie. We goodbye to Jean and Pierre, who mentioned something spent ourl last night at SalisburyLodge, enjoying the view about going that way too, but there wasn'tmuch sign of and our memories of the trip. action. We wondered how they would get on with all All that remained for us to do was walk back to Flora their gear. After all, they had flown in by helicopter. Saddle. On the last morning we headed off, with all that It took a while to get to Karamea Bend. There is no remained of our food a few scraps of muesli. At our proper track and crossing the river isn't much of an op- last rest stop, we picked out all the raisins from the tion. In some places youl have to bushbash around bluffs muesli, dreaming of the beach and fresh food that ifyou don't want to swim. It was another gorgeous day awaited us. Tramping and Mountaineering 1998