Spring Snow at Nelson Lakes

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Spring Snow at Nelson Lakes Simon Ward Somewhere written in the Book of Rules is a rule stating that all trampers in Wellington must assemble at the ferryterminal at 5pm on the Fridayoflabour Weekend. For SO they came, horde upon horde, armed to the teeth with Macpacs and Fairydowns and walking poles and snow-foams and boots and gaiters and ice axes and crampons. A whole truck full. A merry ferry full. nd so we set sail for a pleasant evening ofcruising and boozing on our way to the Mainland. Having elected tojoin the "M" section ofWT&MC rather than the "T" section, our destination was Nelson Lakes National Park, and our destiny was the not-quite-the-highest lofty peak of Mt Travers. The good folk of Catcha-Bus bore us swiftly south to our pits at the Kerr Bay shelter. Funny how iti is quicker to get there than driving to Mt Taranaki for a weekend. Faced with a strenuous morning walk from thes shelter to thej jetty for our 8am water taxi, a leisurely start was calledi for. Unfortunately the good folk of another well-known Wellington tramping club had alternative plans obviously no-onel had told them that getting upat 5am on a holiday weekend was a bit off. By 8.30 we were actually walking, arriving at John Tait Huti in time for a hard-earned lunch stop. Given that the aforementioned trampers from the "opposition"werei in residence, a decision was made to continue on to Summit Creek, either to campin the valley or to head up the creek and camp at the bushline. However, the weather played its hand, and the forecast clag was beginning to be felt by afternoon tea. The bright red WT&MC flies were soon gracing the lush green beech forest at the Summit Creekj junction. Then the rains came. Normally a gentle shower would be ofl little consequence to the hardy "M" section folk. Unfortunately Fly #01, which was carefully selected by the group leader, proved to Magnificent views on the ascent Phil Kendon be both small and about as waterproof as a colander. Eight of the party crammed into the other fly, under which the usual fine fare was pro- about 8.30am. Summit Creek was quickly ascended via a duced for dinner chose to say under Fly #01, which by trail up the true-left which led to thel bushline, from where now was SO wet on thei inside the drips weret flowing down the route headed south up scree slopes to the snowline. to the edge SO I kept dry in my pit. The proximity of a nice Firm snow and crampons ensured rapid progress, while warm hut was often commented upon by the occupants around us the snow-clad peaks of Hopeless and Cupola oft the other fly. emerged from the remnants of the southerly. Progress Morning broke with a cool southerly breeze, passing was also aided by the good people from the "opposition" hail showers and a light dusting of snow down to the doing a fine job of step-plugging though our leader debushline. Clearingweather finally drove the pit-boundpunt- cided they needed a handj just short of the summit (i.e. he ers from their slumbers, anda lai not-so-alpine start was made passed them). Tramping and Mountaineering 1999

Ab bout of serious lunch consumption was called for at Thes standard route up the right-hand couloir had clearly the summit, while taking care not to step on to thel large avalanched, leaving hardi ice in its wake, So we made for cornice alongt the summit ridge. Therer mayl have been some thel left-hand couloir which leads directly for the summit posey photos taken, though this cannot be confirmed. ridge. Asteady pace was maintained and thes summit was Meanwhile, a plan was hatchingi in our leader's mind reached by 9am. What a day! Mountains and valleys Mt Cupola was stunning in its coat of spring snow, the stretching in all directions, glimpses of the North Island weather was clearing nicely and Cupola Basin Hut was and Lakel Rotoroa. Tapuae-o-Uenuku seemed al long way infinitely preferable to another night spent under soggy off, yet only the previous weekend some of us had stood flies. Thus our expedition to climb one mountain became on its summit. I can confirm at this time that posey phoan expedition to climb tos were definitely twor mountains. taken, though we did After a hasty retreat not stay long at the to the camp, everysummit as the mornthing was packed up ing sun was getting and we set off downhot and the snow valley to the Cupola softening rapidly. The Basin track. Now this descent was careful track involves some with little opportunity 600 metres of ascent, to bumslide, and we which requires some returned to thel hut by effort when you have 11am. already done more All that remained than 1300 metres of was to pack up, walk climbing in the day. out to John Tait Hut, Those who had been havel lunch, walk back therel before reassured to Coldwater Hut and those whol hadn'twith pick up the water taxi tales of creeks roaring at 6pm, then drive in chasms and neverback to Picton, have ending zigzags. tea, ands sail home. Well, thec creek does Thea atmosphere on roar through a chasm the return ferry was but eventually the completely different - zigzags come to an hundreds of tired but end and the hut aphappy trampers stumpears rightas you step blingaround like zomabove the bushline. bies or sleeping in What a place for a hut! crumpledheaps on the Surrounded by the floor. After waiting an rocky ridges of Mt aget for gear and a taxi Hopeless and the home, I finally got to snowslopes of Cupola bed by 2am. and looking morel like Why do people do al Fiordland valley than this sort of thing on the northern South Istheir long weekends? land. The climb to the What is the appeal? hut is definitely worth Summit joy, Mt Cupola Phil Kendon Sheer exhaustion? the effort. Sleepdeprivation?Ach I am not sure the ing feet? The subtle twot trampers in theh hut aroma of 3-day-old really appreciated nine Tongue & Meats gatechrashing their polypro mingled with used sunblock? Without a doubt, solitude (after all iti is an 8-bunk hut), nor do I think they this trip was the highlight of my first year of tramping were too happy with us getting up at 5am (strewth, it's with Tongue & Meats. I love the bush, the rivers, and the supposed tol be a holiday, isn'tit?) to climb Cupola. Out- lakes but above all I really like getting up into the mounside, the stars were faintly twinkling through the early tains, into the snow andi ice and the crisp alpine air. Just dawn light and the misti in the valley was descendingi in a being there makes all the effort worthwhile. river off fog to meet the Travers Valley. Soon after leaving the hut, the first colours of sunlight caught the top of The "M" Team: Phil Kendon (leader), Ann Kempster, Paul Hopeless, and crampons were fitted to aid travel up well- Carter, Sally Giles, Andrew Squires, Lisa Lee-Johnson, Harry frozen snow. Smith, Nicola Noble, Simon Ward (scribe). Tramping and Mountaineering 1999